Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Debbie Dunkley]

Occasionally the ring-lock version (p/n 19674) will drop below $40 each.  There are browser plugins and websites that will allow you to set a price alert - set one up and be prepared to jump quickly when they do, as it never lasts long.

Thanks Brian- good idea. However, Mike Pyle  already offered me a great deal on a pair and they are on their way. Looking forward to being able to tilt again!

[Keith Broughton]

The 7.5 degree tilt of the K12s is pretty much right on.

A very clever and useful device on the K series.
Wish more speakers had them.
We experimented and found the 7deg tilt is pretty much all that is needed.

[Debbie Dunkley]

A very clever and useful device on the K series.
Wish more speakers had them.
We experimented and found the 7deg tilt is pretty much all that is needed.

I agree- I own a couple of K10's and I love what QSC did to these speakers to enable tilt. Very nice feature. The JBL's have the 2 holes which works also but sometimes you can pop the speaker on the stand using the wrong hole.....I hope I didn't just open myself up to any naughty references there! 

[Scott Olewiler]

I got these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WB6N12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

K&M w/o the cam lock.

Actually will be using them in the field for the first time this Saturday in an old highly reverberant church sanctuary.  Going to use a laser pointer for some precise aiming. I'll try and remember to get some pics.

I'll add pics tomorrow but the laser pointer worked great for working out the correct angle ( I needed only 4 degrees); but one of the speakers kept spinning due to them not being symmetrical. The heavier side kept spinning towards the front. I should have paid the extra money for the ring lock.

Going to try and salvage them by beefing up the the pipe with a couple wraps of tape next time. The speakers I was using were not my normal mains which are symmetrical.

BEGIN EDIT*-  I was using a pair of ELX112Ps for this event and they have the monitor angle cut on one side only and the amp sits in diagonally. I'm sure for something symetrical ike the DSR they would work fine.

BTW I aimed them with the laser pointer by taking the speaker up to height then climbed a small ladder and laid the pointer on the top of the speaker. I was aiming for the last pew. This seemed like a logical aiming point to me since my main goal was to reduce reflections from htting the rear wall head on. Started off at 7 degrees, but it that put me only about 2/3 of the way back so I dropped it to 4 degrees and that was spot on. Comments on that technique or the logic used to pick the point are more than welcome.


 I found making the correction with the speaker on top nearly impossible, because as you change the angle, you also change the direction of the angle and these particular speakers wanted to swing, which made it hard to tell whether I was increasing or decreasing the angle or which direction the tilter was actually pointing. Couple that with, low lighting and  the fact that I couldn't read the angle setting with the speaker on top and I had a very confusing situation. I ended up just pulling the speaker, adjusting the angle and turning the tilter straight and put the speaker back on.

You can see the right speaker turned so much it was almost pointing sideways

[Mark McFarlane]

A few anecdotes:

I have the ring lock version.  After a year of usage the ring locks are hard (approaching impossible) to loosen with a 53 pound speaker on top. Loosening and tightening is required during the aiming process to keep the speaker from tilting sideways as well as down.  Ideally you can set the angle correctly before hoisting the speaker, but I seem to always require some adjustment.  When I take them down I disconnect the tilter from the stand and leave it connected to the speaker, until the speaker is on the floor. Then it is easy to loosen the ring lock.

I previously used one wrap of high quality black cloth gaffers tape to snug up a pole going into subwoofers.  Then I did an outdoor concert in 110 degree  heat and the pole essentially fused into the subwoofer.  Took 3 men 10 minutes to break it free.  I don't use the tape anymore.

[David Hayes]

Great.  More stuff I didn't know I needed, but probably do.   I don't want to spend $180 on a pair of these things though.

[Robert Piascik]

I have a pair that I paid $22 each for on Amazon which I thought was exceedingly reasonable for a K&M product. I wish I bought two pair!

[David Hayes]

I have a pair that I paid $22 each for on Amazon which I thought was exceedingly reasonable for a K&M product. I wish I bought two pair!

I would buy them right now for that price.

[Nimrod Webber]

Hi guys,

As mentioned, the next batch of BT-12's should be ready and available around November.

The BT-12 design was upgraded by including a locking mechanism inside the top stem to positively secure the cab seated on the tilter.
This lock will eliminate any wobbling of the cab in cases such as oversized, worn or conical top-hat bore, and will also prevent any horizontal movement or rotation of the cab.

The locking mechanism parts are all metal and it is activated by an easily accessed wing bolt. the design has a built in force doubler so does not need hard tightening to achieve sufficient lock. The operation of the lock is seizure free and will always loosen the grip from the top hat once the tightening knob is released.
       
The new version will be designated BT-12CL (Cab Lock...)



Thanks,

N. Webber 

[frank kayser]

Hi Nimrod,
Still enjoying the use of the BT-12 from the original production run. Still nothing like it.

I know the question will come up, so we may as well deal with it now:

Can the cab lock be retrofit to the original BT12?  I'm guessing the lock is not a separate apparatus, but "designed in".

frank

[ProSoundWeb Community]