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Author Topic: Buying TH118's  (Read 21167 times)

Caleb Dueck

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2015, 01:52:18 pm »

As long as you have plenty of amp power, you'll love the TH-118's.  I'm partial to DBH218's with Powersoft power, but the TH-118's aren't far behind. 
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John L Nobile

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2015, 02:50:33 pm »

As long as you have plenty of amp power, you'll love the TH-118's.  I'm partial to DBH218's with Powersoft power, but the TH-118's aren't far behind.

Dick, I'm curious as to the difference between 4 TH118's and 2 SBH218's. I have 2 SBH218's but after reading all the rave reviews of the TH118's I'd like to see some feedback from someone who has tried both.
Plus I'm being asked to look into a sytem for a couple of theaters and the SM80/TH118 or SBH218 combo is what I'm going to suggest.
BTW, the SM80/DBH218 pairing is great. The SH96HO'DBH218 pairing is like having giant studio monitors.
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Jamin Lynch

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2015, 03:17:57 pm »

As long as you have plenty of amp power, you'll love the TH-118's.  I'm partial to DBH218's with Powersoft power, but the TH-118's aren't far behind.

The DBH218's look very impressive, unfortunately I wouldn't have any way to transport them. A little too big and heavy for me. One man show here most of the time.

I was going to use ITech's to power them. Not sure which one yet. 5000HD or 9000HD.
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Ivan Beaver

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #23 on: March 26, 2015, 05:46:45 pm »

Dick, I'm curious as to the difference between 4 TH118's and 2 SBH218's. I have 2 SBH218's but after reading all the rave reviews of the TH118's I'd like to see some feedback from someone who has tried both.
Plus I'm being asked to look into a sytem for a couple of theaters and the SM80/TH118 or SBH218 combo is what I'm going to suggest.
BTW, the SM80/DBH218 pairing is great. The SH96HO'DBH218 pairing is like having giant studio monitors.
A "rough comparison between the TH118 and the DBH218 is as follows.

If you compare 2 TH118s to a single DBH218-The TH118 will have more down low, and the DBH218 will have more up high (like above 60hz or so).

So the DBH218 will have more "punch and impact, while TH118 will have more deep lows.

The drivers are the same in both situations-so powering them up will be the same.
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Ivan Beaver
Danley Sound Labs

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John L Nobile

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #24 on: March 26, 2015, 07:29:28 pm »

A "rough comparison between the TH118 and the DBH218 is as follows.

If you compare 2 TH118s to a single DBH218-The TH118 will have more down low, and the DBH218 will have more up high (like above 60hz or so).

So the DBH218 will have more "punch and impact, while TH118 will have more deep lows.

The drivers are the same in both situations-so powering them up will be the same.

I'm confused. Seems to be a normal state for me.
The specs you have show the - 3db points as 34 for the DBH218 and 40 for the TH118. I see (and hear) where the 218 has more "punch",  but I don't understand why the 118 would have more "deep  lows".
Keep in mind that I've never heard the 118 and that myself and everyone in the cast loves the 218s. And that our previous subs were a pair of Meyer 650's which they never noticed.
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Ivan Beaver

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #25 on: March 26, 2015, 07:55:44 pm »

I'm confused. Seems to be a normal state for me.
The specs you have show the - 3db points as 34 for the DBH218 and 40 for the TH118. I see (and hear) where the 218 has more "punch",  but I don't understand why the 118 would have more "deep  lows".
Keep in mind that I've never heard the 118 and that myself and everyone in the cast loves the 218s. And that our previous subs were a pair of Meyer 650's which they never noticed.

THe 40Hz is incorrect on the "simple specs.  I am not sure where it came from-but I will get the  IT guys to change it.

This is a good example of where the "simple numbers" can not tell the whole story.

My statements are based on what I have measured in a side by side setup.

I don't think I saved the graphs-and this is from memory.
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A complex question is easily answered by a simple-easy to understand WRONG answer!

Ivan Beaver
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PHYSICS- NOT FADS!

Spenser Hamilton

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #26 on: March 26, 2015, 08:40:20 pm »


THe 40Hz is incorrect on the "simple specs.  I am not sure where it came from-but I will get the  IT guys to change it.

This is a good example of where the "simple numbers" can not tell the whole story.

My statements are based on what I have measured in a side by side setup.

I don't think I saved the graphs-and this is from memory.

Just for the sake of conversation - What is the correct 'simple number'?

My experience playing with Art's keystone project has me GAS'ing hard for the real deal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Ivan Beaver

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Re: Buying TH118's-reading specs
« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2015, 08:51:47 pm »

Just for the sake of conversation - What is the correct 'simple number'?

My experience playing with Art's keystone project has me GAS'ing hard for the real deal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just "being picky" it is the number that YOU come up with using the provided freq response graph-both in sensitivity and freq response.

Different people can look at the same graph and come up with different "simple numbers".

That is EXACTLY the reason we provide the actual response graphs provided by the measurement system (not something "redrawn" for a spec sheet)-so people don't have to guess as to where the "simple numbers" may have come from.

If you don't have the actual response graph-WITH associated SPL number (NO, 0dB on the scale DOES NOT count-unless the 0dB is defined and associated with a specific dB SPL), then you have no idea where they came from.

For example-If the sensitivity number is increased (which it could "still be correct") then the low freq corner would ALSO have to increase.

IF the low freq is DIRECTLY tied to the SPL number.  That is THE ONLY LEGIT WAY to do it.

If you don't "tie them together" then you can simply "make up" whatever number you want-and they don't have to mean anything.

For example we could state the sensitivity as 114dB (which IS noted on the spec sheet), since the speaker WILL produce this level with 2.83V input.

But that is not real useful when looking at sub freq.  But most manufacturers that only give "simple numbers" do not say where they come from.

One VERY FAMOUS manufacturer actually rated one of their 2x18" subs having a "20-20K sensitivity" at the level that was produced around 1800Hz.  Not exactly in the sub range-but still in the "audio freq range"-so for some people this "counts".

So the real answer is "it depends".  Sorry.
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A complex question is easily answered by a simple-easy to understand WRONG answer!

Ivan Beaver
Danley Sound Labs

PHYSICS- NOT FADS!

John L Nobile

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Re: Buying TH118's
« Reply #28 on: March 26, 2015, 09:39:02 pm »

I see where the 218 is hotter above 60 hz but between 30 and 40 hz they both look the same while the 218 is 10 db hotter at 20 hz.
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TJ (Tom) Cornish

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Re: Buying TH118's-reading specs
« Reply #29 on: March 26, 2015, 10:09:06 pm »

Just "being picky" it is the number that YOU come up with using the provided freq response graph-both in sensitivity and freq response.

Different people can look at the same graph and come up with different "simple numbers".

That is EXACTLY the reason we provide the actual response graphs provided by the measurement system (not something "redrawn" for a spec sheet)-so people don't have to guess as to where the "simple numbers" may have come from.

If you don't have the actual response graph-WITH associated SPL number (NO, 0dB on the scale DOES NOT count-unless the 0dB is defined and associated with a specific dB SPL), then you have no idea where they came from.

For example-If the sensitivity number is increased (which it could "still be correct") then the low freq corner would ALSO have to increase.

IF the low freq is DIRECTLY tied to the SPL number.  That is THE ONLY LEGIT WAY to do it.

If you don't "tie them together" then you can simply "make up" whatever number you want-and they don't have to mean anything.

For example we could state the sensitivity as 114dB (which IS noted on the spec sheet), since the speaker WILL produce this level with 2.83V input.

But that is not real useful when looking at sub freq.  But most manufacturers that only give "simple numbers" do not say where they come from.

One VERY FAMOUS manufacturer actually rated one of their 2x18" subs having a "20-20K sensitivity" at the level that was produced around 1800Hz.  Not exactly in the sub range-but still in the "audio freq range"-so for some people this "counts".

So the real answer is "it depends".  Sorry.
So which "it depends" number are you going to put on the spec sheet?
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Re: Buying TH118's-reading specs
« Reply #29 on: March 26, 2015, 10:09:06 pm »


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