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[Josh Millward]

I'm getting ready to put together my own build of the "poormans" PowerCON Distro that has been discussed here and linked from here:

Any general advice? I'm very open to suggestion and direction. Thanks in advance!

Middle Atlantic makes both the rack mount box and the rack panel for you. You just need to add the connectors and wire it up.

As has been already mentioned, the box can be found here: Middle Atlantic Econo-Chassis 1, 2, & 3

The laser cut, pre configured rack panel can be found here: Middle Atlantic UNI-1 and UNI-2

Yes, they are both on the same page, on either side of the 10" deep rack mount box. In this case, I would expect that the 6" deep box should be plenty deep enough to fit everything in. You may need to do a little "body work" to get the rack mount box and the face plate to mate up, but I would not worry about it much because it is going in a rack where you don't have to look at anything besides the front panel.

[Chris Jensen]

Might be a slight topic swerve, but it might also be of use in this project.  Just out of curiosity what is the Neutrik SCDR accessory part for?  I have seen it in pictures as a backing for powercons panel mounts.  Never handling one, I'm not sure if it is an insulating material or not.  Here is the product picture from Neutrik:
http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors-accessories/scdr
Neutrik is using it as a simple cover.

After Googleing the product, I found it at Mouser listing it under the category for AC power plug covers:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/SCDR/?qs=R5cXQUTKuHVWH2LTVdPAcw==

I want to build a patch panel for a small amp rack that is fed with the new breakable Powercon True1 line.  I wonder if the SCDR allows to not have to use an enclose for simple panel mount applications?

[Samuel Rees]

Several interesting posts.

1 - I've never seen a commercial product like this before. It must be somewhat new because others in the previous PMD threads had not seen this.

2 - PowerCon True1: it looks more functional than original PowerCon in every way. But, it is completely incompatible with original PowerCon, correct? How did you select True1, then - Is it that you don't have any existing PowerCon gear in your inventory and just need a locking connector for certain racks rather than an ecosystem? Or have user products begun carrying true1?

[TJ (Tom) Cornish]

Several interesting posts.

1 - I've never seen a commercial product like this before. It must be somewhat new because others in the previous PMD threads had not seen this.

2 - PowerCon True1: it looks more functional than original PowerCon in every way. But, it is completely incompatible with original PowerCon, correct? How did you select True1, then - Is it that you don't have any existing PowerCon gear in your inventory and just need a locking connector for certain racks rather than an ecosystem? Or have user products begun carrying true1?

If it were me, I would do the True1 version - there's no downside, really, and potentially significant upside.  You may have a few products that use old-style Powercon, but probably not very many.  A couple old-True1 cables would solve that problem, and you get the benefit of standardizing your distro gear on a much more normal linkable power scheme, unlike the confusion of white vs. blue old Powercon.

As time passes, True1 will likely replace regular Powercon.

[Chris Jensen]

Several interesting posts.

1 - I've never seen a commercial product like this before. It must be somewhat new because others in the previous PMD threads had not seen this.

2 - PowerCon True1: it looks more functional than original PowerCon in every way. But, it is completely incompatible with original PowerCon, correct? How did you select True1, then - Is it that you don't have any existing PowerCon gear in your inventory and just need a locking connector for certain racks rather than an ecosystem? Or have user products begun carrying true1?

I'm not sure how long the SCDR has been around.  The first time I saw it was listed as an accessory to NL4 panel mounts. 

The True1 is not compatible with the blue and grey powercons.  In my current stock of gear I have no powercons, starting from scratch this seems like the way to go.  Best I can tell they were only introduced a month or so ago.  I am working on a collage campus with novice operators.  Although they are bright workers, I don't want to risk anything by tempting breaking under load if I have the choice.  What I really am looking for more than a full distro, is a way to get power to my rack in a clean locking connector.  The SCDR looks very attractive if it can be mounted on a panel and not in its own box.  I am out of rack space and can't afford another slot for a single power drop. 

The draw back to these connectors are that they are only 16amps.  I see them being very popular on lighting instruments where you want to daisy chain the instruments.  I'm blanking on ETC LED lighting instruments at the moment, but I don't believe they have a local power switch.  Because they are using relay power, not dimmers, I don't see how you can not break the standard powercons not under load.  This seems like the market where this product is really geared for.

I have considered making a PMD for my new small portable systems for around campus.  Within my FOH mixer rack I would be able to power powered speakers off of the same power as my rack rather than the closest outlet.  All cable would loom back to the rack in either 25' or 50' cable runs, power and signal.  Again with breakable power I don't have to worry about the order things get done it.  Sometimes I have 3 people out doing a small setup all working on different parts. 

[Chris Jensen]

If it were me, I would do the True1 version - there's no downside, really, and potentially significant upside.  You may have a few products that use old-style Powercon, but probably not very many.  A couple old-True1 cables would solve that problem, and you get the benefit of standardizing your distro gear on a much more normal linkable power scheme, unlike the confusion of white vs. blue old Powercon.

As time passes, True1 will likely replace regular Powercon.

As far as old gear with powercons, does Neutrik even make pcb mounts?  I don't see them listed on their site.  I bet it would be simple enough to change out the panel mount on any old gear for the new True1 and you would never have to worry about it.

The only downside is that they are 16amps, not the full 20amps.

[Tommy Peel]

Been following this thread for a while.

Anyway, I was looking up the True1 connectors on Neutrik's website and noticed that they refer the the True1 as a 16/20A several times and to 16A(20A US) in another place.



What are they referring to and what is the rating of the connector at 120vac and at 230vac?

Sent from my Nexus 4 running OmniROM 4.4 KitKat using Tapatalk Pro

[Samuel Rees]

Been following this thread for a while.

Anyway, I was looking up the True1 connectors on Neutrik's website and noticed that they refer the the True1 as a 16/20A several times and to 16A(20A US) in another place.



What are they referring to and what is the rating of the connector at 120vac and at 230vac?

Sent from my Nexus 4 running OmniROM 4.4 KitKat using Tapatalk Pro

Interesting. I'm about to replace the powered boxes I have with RCF NX 12s on the "box-a-month" plan. I can't modify the box, I want to retain a warranty. I wish there was a way I could do this with True1, but how could I do that with 6 brand new original PowerCon wedges? I'm
Bummed that doesn't make sense.

[Samuel Rees]

Topic swerve welcomed. Definitely a lot of group interest in PowerCon, it's a good thread.

[George Dougherty]

Interesting. I'm about to replace the powered boxes I have with RCF NX 12s on the "box-a-month" plan. I can't modify the box, I want to retain a warranty. I wish there was a way I could do this with True1, but how could I do that with 6 brand new original PowerCon wedges? I'm
Bummed that doesn't make sense.

The major difference is that Powercon isn't rated for making/breaking connections under load.  Leave the wedge(s) switched off while you're cabling them together and it's a non-issue.

[ProSoundWeb Community]