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[Josh Weitkamp]

Ok, I have an 18" sub that is getting no output.  I have taken everything out internally and re soldered all connections, checked every diagram and schem I could get my hands on regarding this thing....still nothing.  I have a pair of these and the one works amazingly. They are Pyle single 18's, sound great,good thump at about 75hz.  I am going to buy another pair soon, but i would like to run all four and i think the issue is in the inline crossover......so my question is, can I remove the passive crossover if I am running an active crossover??  I have a DBX Driverack PA and have the low pass set at 100hz.  I should be able to run the driver direct to the speaker input correct??

[Ivan Beaver]

Ok, I have an 18" sub that is getting no output.  I have taken everything out internally and re soldered all connections, checked every diagram and schem I could get my hands on regarding this thing....still nothing.  I have a pair of these and the one works amazingly. They are Pyle single 18's, sound great,good thump at about 75hz.  I am going to buy another pair soon, but i would like to run all four and i think the issue is in the inline crossover......so my question is, can I remove the passive crossover if I am running an active crossover??  I have a DBX Driverack PA and have the low pass set at 100hz.  I should be able to run the driver direct to the speaker input correct??

The first question is what model?

The next is "exactly what is the "inline crossover" is it a choke acting as a low pass for the sub or a cap acting as a highpass for the full range box?

Both schemes have been used by various manufacturers over the years and they all say "crossover".

Have you measured the resistance of either the driver or the input to the cabinet-or preferably BOTH?  That would be a good first step to try to narrow down the problem.

If the "crossover" is a choke, and you remove it from one cabinet-be sure to remove it from ALL of your subs.  The choke presents a phase shift and all the cabinets should be the same or you will lose some output around crossover freq. due to cancellations.

Photos of the crossover would be another way for us to get an idea of what is going on.

[Bob Leonard]

What Ivan said.

[Josh Weitkamp]

The first question is what model?

The next is "exactly what is the "inline crossover" is it a choke acting as a low pass for the sub or a cap acting as a highpass for the full range box?

Both schemes have been used by various manufacturers over the years and they all say "crossover".

Have you measured the resistance of either the driver or the input to the cabinet-or preferably BOTH?  That would be a good first step to try to narrow down the problem.

If the "crossover" is a choke, and you remove it from one cabinet-be sure to remove it from ALL of your subs.  The choke presents a phase shift and all the cabinets should be the same or you will lose some output around crossover freq. due to cancellations.

Photos of the crossover would be another way for us to get an idea of what is going on.

It is a Pyle PASW18.  From what I can tell by my limited knowledge of internal speaker components, it is a coil and a cap, wired in parallel looks like.  I'll try and post a picture.  If it is a choke, is there a way I can test to see if it is the same polarity as the other subs say with a multimeter??  Or would it be best just to eliminate the internals of all entirely.

[Mark McFarlane]

It is a Pyle PASW18.  From what I can tell by my limited knowledge of internal speaker components, it is a coil and a cap, wired in parallel looks like.  I'll try and post a picture.  If it is a choke, is there a way I can test to see if it is the same polarity as the other subs say with a multimeter??  Or would it be best just to eliminate the internals of all entirely.

FYI, Polarity and phase shift are different.  Ivan wasn't talking about a pure polarity issue.

[sam saponaro]

If you are crossing to the subs actively befor your amps I'd remove the internal crossovers.
With the speaker unhooked check across the +/- to check for resistance. You could even use a AA battery(NO 9V!)and spark it to the terminals momentarily to check the driver if you have no meter.
If the speaker reads dead(or don't jump with the AA)next step is to exercise the cone and see if its locked up(voice coil fried or magnet shifted).

[Ivan Beaver]

It is a Pyle PASW18.  From what I can tell by my limited knowledge of internal speaker components, it is a coil and a cap, wired in parallel looks like.  I'll try and post a picture.  If it is a choke, is there a way I can test to see if it is the same polarity as the other subs say with a multimeter??  Or would it be best just to eliminate the internals of all entirely.

There is no polarity in crossover components-you can hook them up "backwards" and it will be just fine.

I HIGHLY doubt the cap and coil are in parallel.  If you have one of each they could be wired in 1 of 3 different ways.  The first is that both are used for the lowpass for the woofer and you have a 12dB/octave rolloff.

The next is that the coil is for the low pass for the woofer and the cap for the highpass for the full range box-a 6dB/octave rolloff for each.
Or they could both be used for the highpass for the full range cabinet-wihich would be 12dB/octave for the highpass and nothing for the woofer.

500Hz is a pretty high crossover for a sub.

I could not find anything in the manual that gives an idea of what is happening.

Photos and resistance measurements are your BEST option.

[Yosi Melamed]

I have a DBX Driverack PA and have the low pass set at 100hz.  I should be able to run the driver direct to the speaker input correct??

You didn't write so i have to ask, do you run all your audio through the DRPA, highs and lows? Do you use those passive crossovers? Do you connect anything to the subs other then one speaker cable each or dasy chaining them?

[Josh Weitkamp]

You didn't write so i have to ask, do you run all your audio through the DRPA, highs and lows? Do you use those passive crossovers? Do you connect anything to the subs other then one speaker cable each or dasy chaining them?

I run everything through the drive rack.  the lows are run mono out of the crossover then daisy chained to a 4 ohm load and the amp is set to bridge mono. The crossover point i have set on the driverack is well below 500hz.  i have it about 100hz.  i have completely removed the crossover inside both of my subs and have gotten an improvement.  gonna really see how well they perform this weekend at a show.  fingers are crossed

[Ivan Beaver]

have completely removed the crossover inside both of my subs and have gotten an improvement.  gonna really see how well they perform this weekend at a show.  fingers are crossed

So are we to assume you found the problem?  What was it?

[Josh Weitkamp]

Beev, I can only guess it was something in the "crossover". Ripped em both out and viola, both work great.

[Ivan Beaver]

Beev, I can only guess it was something in the "crossover". Ripped em both out and viola, both work great.

My guess would be a cracked  connection then.

HOWEVER I am usually not satisfied when I just "get it working".  I like to know WHY it stopped working-so that i can better educate myself-when future problems come along.

But that is probably just me-I dig a little deeper into issues.

[Josh Weitkamp]

My guess would be a cracked  connection then.

HOWEVER I am usually not satisfied when I just "get it working".  I like to know WHY it stopped working-so that i can better educate myself-when future problems come along.

But that is probably just me-I dig a little deeper into issues.

Im thinking the same.  A bad trace on the pcb or something.  I'll try to find the culprit to keep you from losing your jenkies over it haha

[Scott Harris]

"Beev" ?? 

Cleaning the coffee off my laptop now.....   :-)

[Mark McFarlane]

"Beev" ?? 

Cleaning the coffee off my laptop now.....   :-)

How about 'The Beev'?  Only the old timers will get this.  Sorry Ivan, hope I didn't bring back an annoying nickname from days past.

[Ivan Beaver]

How about 'The Beev'?  Only the old timers will get this.  Sorry Ivan, hope I didn't bring back an annoying nickname from days past.

Yeah I grew up with that-----------------------------------

I just ignore it now.  Where's Wally--------------------------

No problem

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