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[dave celko]

ur part about the being able to et bass in the car or headphones makes sense and clears up what i have been reading in certain places about horn's

any recommendation on a decent driver that has pre made plans for a horn enclosure, im not sure if i could come up with the dimensions and layout for a horn on my own as ive never done one , now on the other hand a bandpass or bass reflex im confident i could come up with my own based on speaker specs just like we do in the car audio world

i wasnt going to ask about these but these would be cheaper then building my own aparently, though the price difference wouldnt be far apart or bad at all if the diy ones are better then these

but what are u guys thoughts on the
Cerwin-Vega EL-36C
and the
B-52 LX-18EV3 1000W Folded Subwoofer which is 200$'s cheaper then the cerwin vega

[Ivan Beaver]

ur part about the being able to et bass in the car or headphones makes sense and clears up what i have been reading in certain places about horn's

any recommendation on a decent driver that has pre made plans for a horn enclosure, im not sure if i could come up with the dimensions and layout for a horn on my own as ive never done one , now on the other hand a bandpass or bass reflex im confident i could come up with my own based on speaker specs just like we do in the car audio world

The lab sub is well documented and used around here.   All sorts of plans-instructions etc.

[Ivan Beaver]

i wasnt going to ask about these but these would be cheaper then building my own aparently, though the price difference wouldnt be far apart or bad at all if the diy ones are better then these

but what are u guys thoughts on the
Cerwin-Vega EL-36C
and the
B-52 LX-18EV3 1000W Folded Subwoofer which is 200$'s cheaper then the cerwin vega

If you like "one note bass" then sure-------------------------

There is a reason cheap gear is cheap.

[dave celko]

If you like "one note bass" then sure-------------------------

There is a reason cheap gear is cheap.

thanks thats all i needed to know
i tried to take a video with my new phone for u guys but the mic on it does a great job of killing all the low and high freq's so of course it sounds like crap.

my old phone on the other hand was much better and sounded much better on the audio so maybe ill try again with that one

what do u guys think about the cubo18?


or any of these 2 other plans
http://www.freespeakerplans.com/plans/14-plans/basscab/12-mhb-4818


http://www.freespeakerplans.com/plans/14-plans/basscab/20-mph-46

[John Halliburton]

i wasnt going to ask about these but these would be cheaper then building my own aparently, though the price difference wouldnt be far apart or bad at all if the diy ones are better then these

but what are u guys thoughts on the
Cerwin-Vega EL-36C
and the
B-52 LX-18EV3 1000W Folded Subwoofer which is 200$'s cheaper then the cerwin vega

You are quite literally, in the same thread, comparing two of the cheapest with one of the best subwoofers on the market, even though the LabSub is technically a DIY project-it just happens to be an excellent design by one of the best designers/inventors in pro audio.

I'd most certainly build LabSubs, even if you only build them one at a time.  Since you say your not moving them once in place, why worry about size and weight, as long as it fits?

You will not be sorry with the performance.

Best regards,

John

[John Halliburton]

what do u guys think about the cubo18?

It looks like a classic "one note" subwoofer.  Not a good thing.

Best regards,

John

[dave celko]

You are quite literally, in the same thread, comparing two of the cheapest with one of the best subwoofers on the market, even though the LabSub is technically a DIY project-it just happens to be an excellent design by one of the best designers/inventors in pro audio.

I'd most certainly build LabSubs, even if you only build them one at a time.  Since you say your not moving them once in place, why worry about size and weight, as long as it fits?

You will not be sorry with the performance.

Best regards,

John

just wieghing my options is all, that and im missing one piece of vital equipment , a table saw, the lab sub looks like it has alot of cuts that i would really want a table saw for.

right now im limited to a circular saw/jigsaw and router , so while i could technically make all the required cuts  with what i have its not going to be as easy.so with that in mind im just checking options on other boxes/designs that may be easier for me to build with the tools i currently have

[Ivan Beaver]

just wieghing my options is all, that and im missing one piece of vital equipment , a table saw, the lab sub looks like it has alot of cuts that i would really want a table saw for.

right now im limited to a circular saw/jigsaw and router , so while i could technically make all the required cuts  with what i have its not going to be as easy.so with that in mind im just checking options on other boxes/designs that may be easier for me to build with the tools i currently have

Not to be picky-but you have gone from "Best" to "what is easy" (with minimal tools). And the price points are all over the map.

As I said earlier you HAVE to define your target FIRST--------------------------------

Such as "what is the best design that goes to 40hz that I can build with minimal tools for $400.  But when talking budget-is that PER CABINET  or TOTAL?

What if 1 cabinet (that costs as much as 4 other ones) outperforms the other 4?  Which is better-do you care about the actual performance or how many cabinets you have?  Remember it will take more amplifiers to driver more cabinets.

So what you need to really ask is "I have x amount of dollars to spend -for amps and speakers and cables-and I need to be as loud as I can down to whatever REALISTIC freq you want".

NOW you can start to get some USABLE answers.  Anything else is just going to give confusing information-as if it hasn't gotten that way already-------------------------


There is no free lunch.

[dave celko]

Not to be picky-but you have gone from "Best" to "what is easy" (with minimal tools). And the price points are all over the map.

As I said earlier you HAVE to define your target FIRST--------------------------------

Such as "what is the best design that goes to 40hz that I can build with minimal tools for $400.  But when talking budget-is that PER CABINET  or TOTAL?

What if 1 cabinet (that costs as much as 4 other ones) outperforms the other 4?  Which is better-do you care about the actual performance or how many cabinets you have?  Remember it will take more amplifiers to driver more cabinets.

So what you need to really ask is "I have x amount of dollars to spend -for amps and speakers and cables-and I need to be as loud as I can down to whatever REALISTIC freq you want".

NOW you can start to get some USABLE answers.  Anything else is just going to give confusing information-as if it hasn't gotten that way already-------------------------


There is no free lunch.

to get a better idea of what i need i dug out my spl meter today, unhooked the mains and ran only the subs and atook readings of 102-104 peak db threw out most of the room depending n the type of music played. my meter has been sitting a long time so im unsure of how accurate it is at this time but atleast it gives me a baseline

tommorow my ab intl 1100z amp gets here and i will remeasure with the new amp to see were i stand ill be going form an amp thats around 350w rms to an amp thats 1700w rms bridged at 4 ohms so 850rms per cab instead of 350ish, so maybe that alone will get the output levels up enough i dont have to add anymore cabs

[Ivan Beaver]

to get a better idea of what i need i dug out my spl meter today, unhooked the mains and ran only the subs and atook readings of 102-104 peak db threw out most of the room depending n the type of music played. my meter has been sitting a long time so im unsure of how accurate it is at this time but atleast it gives me a baseline

tommorow my ab intl 1100z amp gets here and i will remeasure with the new amp to see were i stand ill be going form an amp thats around 350w rms to an amp thats 1700w rms bridged at 4 ohms so 850rms per cab instead of 350ish, so maybe that alone will get the output levels up enough i dont have to add anymore cabs

Were you using A or C scale and fast or slow response?  There is no such thing as 102dB-it HAS to have other factors associated with it to have any meaning. 

All the 102 tells you is that the measurement is 102dB louder than something.  What is that something?  This is where simple numbers get you in trouble.

I assume that was with the amp at clip?  If not then what was the power level-how was it measured?

All of these "things" REALLY matter-IF you are going to try to make any kind of comparisom

DATA IS IMPORTANT-if you are going to convey any sort of technical information.

[ProSoundWeb Community]