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Author Topic: best sub enclosures for my application ?  (Read 27712 times)

Ivan Beaver

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #40 on: April 29, 2013, 08:15:50 pm »

been looking at the lab sub some more and i think i need to start with something a lil simpler for my first ones

ivan what are u thoughts on the Cinema F-20 ?

looks like it will go low and loud enough , and damn simple to build, though it is pretty tall but that isnt an issue for me


I have no opinion on that cabinet-as I have nto used it.

HOWEVER there is always a price to be paid.  For cabinet that go low-the sensitivity also goes down-so the max output is lower.

I have no idea what the lines on graph are referenced to-but if if is 2,83V, then the sensitivity is not very high.  MOst likely your current subs are higher.

But I have no idea on that either.  Without being able to hear them side by side-you have to rely on measurements-and they HAVE to calibrated to something that can be compared.  Without that-then "numbers" don't mean much-if anything useful
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Ivan Beaver
Danley Sound Labs

PHYSICS- NOT FADS!

dave celko

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #41 on: April 29, 2013, 08:26:49 pm »

opps i forgot to add the text that went with that graph
Quote
Measured with REW 5.0, with a UCA-202 and a Lilmike mic. First sweep was set at a drive level of 2.00 volts into a 4.00 ohm load resistor, each sweep higher is +5 dB from the previous, so the final sweep is 25 dB higher than where we started, or essentially at the limit of my 300 watt amp, and past the thermal limit of the driver. I'm not sure if the compression is the limit of the amp, driver, or both. We limited the start to 20 Hz for the highest level sweep. I was well within the limits of my soundcard and mic at these levels. No mic calibration was used, the soundcard was calibrated via a loopback.

here is a link to another forum with a ton of info on them by the designer i take it
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1329971/lilmikes-cinema-f-20

cost seems to be 250$ per box with driver , at that price i could build 4 easy, price can vary depending on driver used  and i would prolly go for the more expensive more durable driver

im getting about 112db average 117db peak out of my current subs but with a very big lack in anything below 40-45hz.
if i can maintain 115 db average and get useable response down below 40hz ill be very happy
ideally id like to bring the levels closer to 120db average

thanks for the help again
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dave celko

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #42 on: May 07, 2013, 04:03:15 pm »

opps i forgot to add the text that went with that graph
here is a link to another forum with a ton of info on them by the designer i take it
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1329971/lilmikes-cinema-f-20

cost seems to be 250$ per box with driver , at that price i could build 4 easy, price can vary depending on driver used  and i would prolly go for the more expensive more durable driver

im getting about 112db average 117db peak out of my current subs but with a very big lack in anything below 40-45hz.
if i can maintain 115 db average and get useable response down below 40hz ill be very happy
ideally id like to bring the levels closer to 120db average

thanks for the help again

i ended up deciding to build 4 micro wreckers these will go down to around 18hz , i purchased 4 drivers and enough wood to build the first two and am going to pick up the wood to build the other 2 this weekend.

hopefully by this weekend ill have atleast 2 built
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Ivan Beaver

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #43 on: May 07, 2013, 07:47:11 pm »

i ended up deciding to build 4 micro wreckers these will go down to around 18hz , i purchased 4 drivers and enough wood to build the first two and am going to pick up the wood to build the other 2 this weekend.

hopefully by this weekend ill have atleast 2 built
Good luck-Just remember that you will give up output for low freq extension.  But audio is all a matter of tradeoffs.
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Ivan Beaver
Danley Sound Labs

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dave celko

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #44 on: June 04, 2013, 08:52:44 pm »

Good luck-Just remember that you will give up output for low freq extension.  But audio is all a matter of tradeoffs.

i built 2 for my last gig this past weekend and i got so many compliments on how much better it sounded and felt, these things play so low that it didnt even have to be loud from 30hz down it literally vibrated the whole dance floor, sound was clear and crisp, only problem i had was the cabs liked to move across the floor.ended up bolting them down to the floor with some L brackets

never again will i buy siesmic audio anything

i have some larger gigs and some outdoor gigs comming up soon so i am building 4 more

« Last Edit: June 04, 2013, 09:05:54 pm by dave celko »
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Tim McCulloch

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #45 on: June 04, 2013, 09:56:49 pm »

i built 2 for my last gig this past weekend and i got so many compliments on how much better it sounded and felt, these things play so low that it didnt even have to be loud from 30hz down it literally vibrated the whole dance floor, sound was clear and crisp, only problem i had was the cabs liked to move across the floor.ended up bolting them down to the floor with some L brackets

never again will i buy siesmic audio anything

i have some larger gigs and some outdoor gigs comming up soon so i am building 4 more

The pads sold to keep area rugs from slipping and sliding work very well for speakers, too.
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John Halliburton

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #46 on: June 05, 2013, 08:48:48 am »

The pads sold to keep area rugs from slipping and sliding work very well for speakers, too.

After looking at his build thread over at the AVS Forums, part of the problem might be helped out by not using OSB for the cabinet build, and it doesn't look like 3/4" thick stock either, along with the possibility of no internal bracing.

Perhaps Dave will reply with some more details on these points.

I would be curious to see how the OSB would look after a trip to the Line-X dealer.  The stuff is pretty stiff and strong, although not in the same league as Baltic Birch plywood, and certainly prototyping with it wouldn't be the end of the world.

Best regards,

John
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Ivan Beaver

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #47 on: June 05, 2013, 12:31:00 pm »

After looking at his build thread over at the AVS Forums, part of the problem might be helped out by not using OSB for the cabinet build, and it doesn't look like 3/4" thick stock either, along with the possibility of no internal bracing.

Perhaps Dave will reply with some more details on these points.

I would be curious to see how the OSB would look after a trip to the Line-X dealer.  The stuff is pretty stiff and strong, although not in the same league as Baltic Birch plywood, and certainly prototyping with it wouldn't be the end of the world.

Best regards,

John
OSB is really strong for things like flooring/roofs etc.

But it is a lousy speaker material-it doesn't hold anything on the endgrain-swells like crazy when it gets wet and tends to "flake" quite a bit.

Covering with carpet is one of the best finishes for that type of wood.
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A complex question is easily answered by a simple-easy to understand WRONG answer!

Ivan Beaver
Danley Sound Labs

PHYSICS- NOT FADS!

dave celko

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Re: best sub enclosures for my application ?
« Reply #48 on: June 05, 2013, 02:00:32 pm »

After looking at his build thread over at the AVS Forums, part of the problem might be helped out by not using OSB for the cabinet build, and it doesn't look like 3/4" thick stock either, along with the possibility of no internal bracing.

Perhaps Dave will reply with some more details on these points.

I would be curious to see how the OSB would look after a trip to the Line-X dealer.  The stuff is pretty stiff and strong, although not in the same league as Baltic Birch plywood, and certainly prototyping with it wouldn't be the end of the world.

Best regards,

John

yeah i used osb baltic birtch was 75 bucks a sheet , and being my first build i didnt want to spend that much.lilmike the guy who designed the cabs told me osb would be much better to use then then mdf so thats what i went with.

as far as how to finish it and how it will hold up i have a pretty good idea what im going to do with them, ive got a ton of really thin fiberglass matt.and weave sitting here along with a ton of resin, im wondering if brushing on a coat of fiberglass resin on the osb then sand and paint wouldnt be a good idea, since yes it does flake pretty easy. or i may not even bother

now that i know how theese sound and how easy they are to build the next 4 ill prolly sepnd the money to buy the plywood still going to hurt at 75 bucks a sheet, i live in a small lil town and only one place to get lumber so its not cheap.

if i do build the next 4 out of plywood i will prolly also rebuild the first 2 i did with osb and make the cabs out of the plywood.

and yes i braced the hell out the inside , i was moving along so fast with getting them built that after the first time i stoped for some pictures , i said hell with it and just breezed threw the rest of the build.

the only pne panell that does not have a brace is the bottom angled piece and the piece that sits on the floor. i did that on purpose so if i ever needed to change out the driver i could simply flip the cab upside down and unbolt the bottom panel and have good access to the driver.

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