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[Jim Turner]

I'm a noob when it comes to LED lighting... I recently purchased two Chauvet 4 bar tri and an American DJ DMX operator 192 to control them. I'm experiencing a flickering as I fade between scenes, not a smooth transition as I had hoped.  What is causing this? The cheap lights or cheap console? I am planing to add more fixtures but would like to solve this issue first. Thanks for your input. Cheers!

[Paul G. OBrien]

I'm willing to bet it's the fixtures because I have the same controller here and don't see any flicker with several different non Chauvet fixtures.

[Josh Daws]

this is not a new issue, this has more to do with the specific LED's that the manufacturer has used. Chauvet is usually pretty good.

the flicker itself comes from the frequency that it is emitting at the time of how much power it is drawing (usually on a lower power/intensity). you will notice the amount it flicker will also differ on certain colors. you will also notice some fixtures won't seem to flicker but when you look at it on camera it will flicker.

when buying LED you will want to make sure that it is deemed flicker free...

[Jim Turner]

Yea... it is most noticeable in the red at low intensities. So this is a common issue with budget fixtures? The form & price really made the 4 bar tri appealing but the flicker is hard to take. Any suggestions for a similar flicker free fixture? 

[Josh Daws]

Yea... it is most noticeable in the red at low intensities. So this is a common issue with budget fixtures? The form & price really made the 4 bar tri appealing but the flicker is hard to take. Any suggestions for a similar flicker free fixture?

to be honest in a 4 bar like that i dont, no. i personally have steered clear of those style of fixtures almost for that reason alone. im actually kind of surprised in that you having that issue with the tri LED (specifically on dimming). my suggestion is to go to another store where you can get it (if not same shop), get one tested out and see if you have the same problem with another new one. if you do then you know its the fixture. if not, take back your fixture and get it fixed as its still under warranty.

in the earlier days of LED, this used to be a real inherent problem for this fixture style. a lot of that has been fixed, but after seeing the crappyness of those fixtures and how many i saw returned, i refused to stock them anymore. however if people wanted them i would order it, but not without ordering. (yes i work for a retailer, and am a lighting designer for concerts/festival/tv)

im not sure in what your budget is like, but Microh has released the RIO TRI PAR. these are flicker free, and super bright and have a 36degree (i think) beam angle. i can light (for frontwash) a 24x16 foot stage with 4 of them (two per side) really well, good coverage and great color. obvisously there are other similar (probably cheaper) fixtures out there...lumi for example has a great product)...

[Jim Turner]

I guess I could mount a few led pars on bars myself... it seems that may be the way to go. Anybody wanna buy a pair of Chauvet 4 bar tri? LOL Cheers!

[Josh Daws]

before you give up completely...just for kicks if  you can...try another controller..and also ensure that you are indeed using DMX cable, or AES/EBU cable is acceptable as well. do not use regular mic cable. whilst YES it works, it is a different cable all together...

[Jason Joseph]

before you give up completely...just for kicks if  you can...try another controller..and also ensure that you are indeed using DMX cable, or AES/EBU cable is acceptable as well. do not use regular mic cable. whilst YES it works, it is a different cable all together...

Also remember that the last device should be terminated with a DMX terminator. Most light issues can be solved in this manner for a simple $2 expense..

[Josh Daws]

Also remember that the last device should be terminated with a DMX terminator. Most light issues can be solved in this manner for a simple $2 expense..

this isn't necessary IMO unless you are doing over 200ft runs of cable after a DMX splitter/booster, or console to fixture. i have rarely used a terminator, and have rarely had a problem in which a terminator has actually fixed the problem. 9 times out of 10 its the cable.

not saying that they are a bad idea. just not 100% necessary.

[Rob Spence]

this isn't necessary IMO unless you are doing over 200ft runs of cable after a DMX splitter/booster, or console to fixture. i have rarely used a terminator, and have rarely had a problem in which a terminator has actually fixed the problem. 9 times out of 10 its the cable.

not saying that they are a bad idea. just not 100% necessary.

A terminator is required by the spec. If it works without one, you are lucky but you have not changed the fact that DMX requires a terminator.

Don't give bad advice!


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