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[Brian Wilkinson]

Let me know how yours works out in that configuration if it works I will try it out and see if that helps to get me by.  Mine worked fine for about a year though, so I wonder if the crappy breakers that I am told they are putting in those are just wearing out FAST.  The first time I had the issue I pulled the Q1212 out of the distro and plugged into the wall and the wall breaker never tripped. Trust me I understand the frustration completely when I hear the subs or mids drop out during a show and have to go kick them back on

Got me wishing I could find a Motion Labs one I could overnight for tomorrow now! 

[Rob Spence]

I would put one GX amp and one PLX on a circuit. The HF amp isn't gonna draw as much as the LF amps. Especially as you say the LF amps are driving 4 ohm loads and the HF amps are driving 8 ohm loads.


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[Scott Carneval]

Got me wishing I could find a Motion Labs one I could overnight for tomorrow now! 

Try using a 50' #10 extension cord.  The cord will act as a damper and limit the inrush current and also the peak current draw during transients. 

[John Roberts {JR}]

Try using a 50' #10 extension cord.  The cord will act as a damper and limit the inrush current and also the peak current draw during transients.

And available power in normal use...

JR

[Brian Wilkinson]

Well I ran mine about 20 hours over the holiday weekend on gigs and so far so good. I ran 2 EV CP4000s amps on one circuit 2 EV CP3000s on another and iTech 12000 HD on another doing rock shows all weekend. I hope it lasts.

[Brian Larson]

Try using a 50' #10 extension cord.  The cord will act as a damper and limit the inrush current and also the peak current draw during transients.

I hope that's a joke.

[Randall Hyde]

I am using a Furman ACD100 power distro and using a NEMA14-50 plug for 240v 50 amp. This splits into 5 x 20 amp circuts. 

Just don't try to pull 20 amps from all five circuits simultaneously.
Might be 100 amps total, but it's 50 amps on the A side and 50 amps on the B side.
Of course, with power amps you shouldn't be pulling a full 20 amps continuously, but I've had some ITech 8000 amps trip a 20-amp break on occasion.

I concur that a better distro would probably solve your problems.
I built my own, so I only have myself to blame when things go wrong
Cheers,
Randy Hyde

[Vernon Alatorre]

Well I ran mine about 20 hours over the holiday weekend on gigs and so far so good. I ran 2 EV CP4000s amps on one circuit 2 EV CP3000s on another and iTech 12000 HD on another doing rock shows all weekend. I hope it lasts.

I meant to post on here that I have done a couple shows since and have had pretty good luck using the suggestions of a GX5 and PLX1602 on A and another pair on B I moved the Q1212 to E and haven't tripped any breakers. I will probably still look at getting a better distro down the road but this seems to be alright for the time being.

[Bob Leonard]

+1

I am not familiar with the specifics of that distro, but yes, magnetic breakers are easier to trip with big amps, than thermal breakers that tolerate more in-rush current.

I recall running into this issue decades ago selling big amps into euro zone where mains breakers are routinely magnetic instead of thermal. Amp designs that were working fine in US applications, would have turn-on issues in Europe.

One question are the OPs amps all being turned on at same time with one switch?

JR

+1 Again. The fur man doesn't always live up to the hype.

[Mike Karseboom]

+1 Again. The fur man doesn't always live up to the hype.

On this topic, I have a CEP 6506G 50 amp "spider box" contruction type distro that runs off a 240v 50 amp circuit.  I got it because I saw it in use at some festivals and even indoor venues.  Compared to something like a Motion Labs or Lex offering, it is very inexpensive.
 
Here is a link to that product:  http://cepnow.com/?p=384
 
I have used it with apparent success three or four times this year running both audio and incandescent par lights off it.  But I don't really have much experience with it and realize now that I did not really reasearch it's suitability for audio all that well. 
 
So my question is if anyone has an opinion on how well these work for audio both indoor and outdoor.  Are there any inherent problems using them?  Are there any code issues with them?

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