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[Riley Casey]

I'm not having much luck rounding the usual suspects on this.  Greenlee doesn't make one according to Newark and Google.  Anyone know of a vendor for a plain ole' manual chassis punch of this size?

[Jonathan Schroeder]

I'm not having much luck rounding the usual suspects on this.  Greenlee doesn't make one according to Newark and Google.  Anyone know of a vendor for a plain ole' manual chassis punch of this size?

15/16" is the equivalent to a 24 mm punch.  I have used this one in the past, and as a bonus, when converting from 1/4" jacks, the center threaded portion fits through the old hole, so you don't have to do anything else, remove the old jack, use the punch and drop in your new connector. Drill the additional mounting holes and you are done.


Or is there something else you are looking for?
Jon

[duane massey]

I normally use a unibit. Google "step-drill metric" or just "step-drill". I've had better luck with the approach than the draw-thru punches, and one bit can do several different size holes. Drilling in stainless is not easy, but a draw-thru can also be a challenge as well.
I've had decent luck with Irwin and Lennox, but even the cheap bits will work for occasional use.

[paul bell]

+1 on the unibit.

[Simon Lewis]

Don't know what the p&p costs are, but QMax make a 24mm tank cutter, and they are widely available in the UK and online:

http://www.buckandhickman.com/find/Manufacturer-is-Q-MAX/product-is-224930
http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/40648/55-693_Q-MAX-PUNCH-24mm

You will need a metric hex key too...

Simon

[Riley Casey]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I actually have a 15/16" in stock that I bought in the 70s for my first stage box projects.  Cut many an xlr hole with that over the years.  Every once in a while a Neutrick won't fit in a 15/16" though so I thought I'd look for a 24mm and was surprised that they were made of unobtanium.  The uni-bit looks handy though for plastic and wood.  Time to call Grainger.

PS : Grainger $72,  Amazon $39

[duane massey]

Riley, the unibit works great in steel and aluminum. If you drill a pilot hole (I use a 3/16) you can drill thru 1/8" steel quicker than using a standard bit, and the hole will be round and clean.

If you don't own one, buy one , even a cheap one. You won't regret it.

[Rob Spence]

Riley, the unibit works great in steel and aluminum. If you drill a pilot hole (I use a 3/16) you can drill thru 1/8" steel quicker than using a standard bit, and the hole will be round and clean.
If you don't own one, buy one , even a cheap one. You won't regret it.

Until you go one step too many on the last hole :-)
I use a Greenlee 15/16" punch most of the time.

[Tom Young]

Riley, the unibit works great in steel and aluminum. If you drill a pilot hole (I use a 3/16) you can drill thru 1/8" steel quicker than using a standard bit, and the hole will be round and clean.

If you don't own one, buy one , even a cheap one. You won't regret it.

+1

I have two. One is smaller.

I use them in the shop and at job sites.

Not cheap.

Worth every cent.

[Geri O'Neil]

Hmm, on the 15/16" Greenlee, I've used them on a couple of hundred Neurik D-series XLR and NL4 connectors over the years and I've not had one that wouldn't fit.

I do keep step bits for other odd sizes i have to punch from time to time.

Geri O

[kristianjohnsen]

Riley, the unibit works great in steel and aluminum. If you drill a pilot hole (I use a 3/16) you can drill thru 1/8" steel quicker than using a standard bit, and the hole will be round and clean.

If you don't own one, buy one , even a cheap one. You won't regret it.

If you ever watch "American Chopper" you'll see them using those for just about anything metal, including pipes.

The trick, however, when you are footing the bill yourself, is to use normal drill bits up to however big you have first:  By design, the tip of the unibit will see the most use and dull first, so taking some of the wear off of the tip makes sense

[Rob Spence]

To keep from going past the size I want I mark the correct step on the Unibit with a blue or red marker. That way, when the color goes through, I stop.
It is too easy to go one more step...

I use the punches whenever I can.

[Nimrod Webber]

+1

When using the multi-step drill, remember to reduce the drill's RPM as you go up the diameter.
Too high cutting speed (especially on steel) will burn and dull the drill prematurely.

p.s. I prefer and mainly use the mentioned two part punch...

 

[theo mack]

I use a 15/16 punch.
Then get the Dremel tool out for the few tight fitting issues.

+1

When using the multi-step drill, remember to reduce the drill's RPM as you go up the diameter.
Too high cutting speed (especially on steel) will burn and dull the drill prematurely.

p.s. I prefer and mainly use the mentioned two part punch...

 

[Ola Brekken]

I'm not having much luck rounding the usual suspects on this.  Greenlee doesn't make one according to Newark and Google.  Anyone know of a vendor for a plain ole' manual chassis punch of this size?

I Bought the Ruko 109240, 24mm hole punch. If I would buy another one now, I'd go for the one with ball bearings, though (109240K).

I don't know anything about American dealers for this, but the manufactrurer can be found here www.ruko.de

[Tim Padrick]

When using a Unibit that large, you have to keep a close eye on it and/or drill from the back side, as the swarf is quite large, and will scratch the hell out of the panel.

[ProSoundWeb Community]