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[Ivan Beaver]

leon garrity wrote on Wed, 28 July 2010 19:59

Hello, just wondered if anyone could guide me as to why one SM60f speaker still keeps going off when pushed a little,its the same box all the time.Gigged tonight and still keeps doing it,checked cables all on neutrick speak on connectors,wired with van damme tour grade cable,checked amp,connectors.So am puzzled??????????? reguards Leon

Have  you swapped cables-just in case.

I would label the cabinet-the cable and the amp channel that is having the problem and then swap out one of them at a time.  

DO NOT change more than one thing at a time-as you will have no idea which of the parts you changed may have the problem.

Is it the entire cabinet going out? or just a particular freq band (lows-mids or highs)?

If it is the entire cabinet then remove the jack plate and see if there are any loose wires there.  That and the other end of the wires at the circuit board are the only things that could affect the entire cabinet.

If it is a particular freq band-then there is the possibility of a bad/cracked connection or defective part on the circuit board.

Does this happen just when pushed hard or at any volume?  

You could try putting some noise or music into the cabinet and pounding on the sides with your fist or a rubber mallet, and see if the sound cuts out any.

The first step to any troubleshooting to be able to recreat the problem-so you know what you are dealing with.

That would indicate a loose part or connection.

[leon garrity]

Hi Ivan its the whole cabinet going off,then back on when its being worked shall we say its an intermittent fault, will check tomorrow and report back,its strange that its the same box.
reguards Leon

[leon garrity]

Only when it gets pushed a little,with 3 drivers being in the box there must be a lot of internal pressure,especially when driven hard as also the boxes do get warm from the heat created,the sound apart from the drop outs is still amazing just its annoying.

reguards Leon

[Mike Pyle]

Have you tried swapping JUST the speaker cable from one top to the other so you know that it is not the amplifier channel or upstream?

[leon garrity]

Yeah mike done all that,gonna check internal to see if any loose connections.

regauards Leon

[leon garrity]

Hello,

i have checked for loose connections and can't see any on the board,i was very careful when i checked to make sure nothing untoward was disturbed, so im puzzled even moreso.

reguards Leon

[leon garrity]

Well gigged tonight and the problem is still happening the box when pushed goes off intermittingly,the other cabinet is fine.The whole box just drops out then back on, i know its not being pushed too hard as it is fine until that point,my only thought is it is the board in someway? the cables are fine,connecting XLR's are all correct,i have the correct crossover settings applied.So if anyone has any ideas please let me know how to solve or how to remedy the situation.

reguards Leon

[Art Welter]

leon garrity wrote on Fri, 30 July 2010 18:18

Well gigged tonight and the problem is still happening the box when pushed goes off intermittingly,the other cabinet is fine.The whole box just drops out then back on, i know its not being pushed too hard as it is fine until that point,my only thought is it is the board in someway? the cables are fine,connecting XLR's are all correct,i have the correct crossover settings applied.So if anyone has any ideas please let me know how to solve or how to remedy the situation. reguards Leon

Sounds like it may be a cold (or missed) solder joint on the crossover input, or a cracked trace just after the input.

Cracked trace would be more likely, as high power could cause vibrations which could flex the board, while cold or missed solder joints usually crap out at low, rather than high power.

Look for signs of arcing near the crossover input, a magnifying glass helps.

[leon garrity]

Im not an engineer and dont want to void my guarantee so to speak,its definatly got to be the board as everything is fine until it gets warm and pushed a little.

reguards Leon

[Ivan Beaver]

leon garrity wrote on Fri, 30 July 2010 20:46

Im not an engineer and dont want to void my guarantee so to speak,its definatly got to be the board as everything is fine until it gets warm and pushed a little. reguards Leon

I still say since it happens a lot less that it still works-the possible problem could be in the crimped connections on the NL4's.

Of course they are going to look fine-because it works most of the time.

I doubt it is on the input trace (although it would have to be on the input-as the whole cabinet cuts out) as those are pretty wide (the board is my design/layout) and go right to the various crossover circuits.

It could be the soldered connection on the input to the board.

Leno could try just heating those up with a soldering iron and "reflowing" them.

I will pass this on to the customer service guys at Danley.