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[Mike Smith]

As a side note, I forgot to mention that horn loaded bass boxes, assuming they are designed correctly to begin with, usually need to be combined in multiples for them to work effectively. Their mouth area combines and you'll extend and smooth out the low frequency response. There aren't too many "classic" folded horn designs that sound good used singly (or even sometimes in pairs).

What I'm saying is that your boxes are far from ideal but even something snazzy from that era would have trouble sounding hi-fi unless you EQ the holy heck out of it.  

So what you need is about eight or twelve or forty more of those Sunn-looking boxes...

[Derek Konop]

John Halliburton wrote on Mon, 22 February 2010 13:04

Derek Konop wrote on Mon, 22 February 2010 11:53 Thanks for the advice, That's kind of the answer I had in my head already. I'll hit the peavey and partsexpress websites and check on new drivers and box designs. Derek Not sure what your budget is, but you might call John at Acoustic Elegance and take a look at his 15" and 18" offerings: http://www.aespeakers.com/ He's right in your area. Take a look at the new Eminence 15" LAB subwoofer driver too, along with the other suggested drivers. Best regards, John

I've heard a couple of local rigs built with the AES drivers and they sound fantastic.  Probably going to be out of my price range though.  

As far as the horn loaded boxes, I understand the basics of their design and am aware of the need for mouth to mouth stacking.  I've done lots of homework over the last few years on this site and was aware that these would probably sound like poop, but I got them for next to nothing just to see.




Art, I've tried doing all sorts of things with the graphic i have available.  Just like you are getting at, I tired boosting 50-80 and cutting 100-125 in many different ways but the boxes still honk like hell and if I boost the 50-80 too much the drivers start to flop.  I know that the wrong drivers in even a good horn loaded enclosure will suffer from excursion issues and was just wondering if these would perform well in a correctly designed ported relfex box.  But you guys have confirmed what I kind of already knew.  Sell them and move on.

I'm a peavey fan and will probably look most seriously at the Low riders for some custom boxes.  Seems like folks agree that they are not the greatest LF driver, but they are hard to beat in the bang for the buck column. Any other suggestions for $200-$250 drivers are welcome.  

I've been floundering around on the peavey site and can't find any specific enclosure designs. I've found the manual and specs for the low rider, which shows recommended box volumes and port sizes.  Does anybody have links to specific cabinet designs I could look at?

Again,
Thanks for your help and all the knowledge you guys have already offered up here @ PSW

Derek

[Paul O'Brien]

Build a pair of boxes with shelf ports at the bottom as seen in the pic below. This plan will put the tuning freq at about 40hz according to WinISD Pro and the driver will take it's full 800w rating without exceeding xmax. To convert all the units to inches simply divide them by 25.4.

[Duane Silveira]

What are your intentions with these bass bins? I call them "bins" because thats what they are...kick bins. They appear to be just an upscaled hd15. If you have researched the speakerplans forum much then you would know that these are not for sub duty...at all. You might drop down to 45hz with a huge wall of them, but one or two...forget it. If they are like the hd's then they are designed to run from about 80 to 150 hz. Build some decent horn subs and maybe stick those on top for some kick. I believe that no matter how much eq you give them they will still honk.

[Derek Konop]

I had kind of come to that conclusion already but was just looking for some confirmation.  Lots of nice rigs on speakerplans.com forums use them exactly as you said, Kick bins covering 80-200 ish wedged between subs and tops.

Selling and moving on!

Derek