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[Tilen Sluga]

Hello there,  
 
I'm in the middle of building 4 LABs and wanted to ask if it's ok to make some holes in the bracing plates ? I'm basically just looking for some weight reduction and wondered if this wouldn't effect the sound or working of the sub in any way ?
 
Regards,
Tilen S.

[Art Welter]

Tilen Sluga wrote on Thu, 24 December 2009 05:38

Hello there,     I'm in the middle of building 4 LABs and wanted to ask if it's ok to make some holes in the bracing plates ? I'm basically just looking for some weight reduction and wondered if this wouldn't effect the sound or working of the sub in any way ?   Regards, Tilen S.

Lightening holes would be fine. It would be best to round the edges to make them easier to paint and eliminate any potential "chuffing" noises.

[Tilen Sluga]

Would something like this be ok? Structurally i think it should be ok but i don't now how it would impact the sound?

[Tilen Sluga]

Second bracing version (a little stronger).

[Art Welter]

That would work OK, but round the corners (instead of the hard triangles) so it is easy to run a 1/4 round bit around the lightening holes.

A lot of work for a few pounds, though I have done similar on a few projects.

[Ivan Beaver]

Art Welter wrote on Wed, 06 January 2010 21:10

That would work OK, but round the corners (instead of the hard triangles) so it is easy to run a 1/4 round bit around the lightening holes. A lot of work for a few pounds, though I have done similar on a few projects.

If he cuts one pattern out, then uses a plunge router with a guide coller-he can make copies pretty quick(although the copies would be slightly smaller holes than the origional)-I doubt anybody would notice.

[Art Welter]

Ivan Beaver wrote on Wed, 06 January 2010 19:43

Art Welter wrote on Wed, 06 January 2010 21:10 That would work OK, but round the corners (instead of the hard triangles) so it is easy to run a 1/4 round bit around the lightening holes. A lot of work for a few pounds, though I have done similar on a few projects. If he cuts one pattern out, then uses a plunge router with a guide coller-he can make copies pretty quick(although the copies would be slightly smaller holes than the origional)-I doubt anybody would notice.

I prefer the guide collar for longevity of the template, but a straight bit with a roller bearing makes an exact copy.
Roller bearings don't last very long on straight bits though.

[Tilen Sluga]

All done. Thanks guys, One day of hard work... but worth the effort

[Art Welter]

Tilen Sluga wrote on Thu, 07 January 2010 15:14

All done. Thanks guys, One day of hard work... but worth the effort

Nice job, did you weigh the parts before and after lightening ?

[Tilen Sluga]

Thanks. No i haven't weight them yet, i will weight it tomorrow and I let you know.

[Antone Atmarama Bajor]

Nice!!!

I like the straight (Trim) bit with the bearing too, haven't tried a plunge router with a collar.

[Silas Pradetto]

Art Welter wrote on Thu, 07 January 2010 16:16

Ivan Beaver wrote on Wed, 06 January 2010 19:43 Art Welter wrote on Wed, 06 January 2010 21:10 That would work OK, but round the corners (instead of the hard triangles) so it is easy to run a 1/4 round bit around the lightening holes. A lot of work for a few pounds, though I have done similar on a few projects. If he cuts one pattern out, then uses a plunge router with a guide coller-he can make copies pretty quick(although the copies would be slightly smaller holes than the origional)-I doubt anybody would notice. I prefer the guide collar for longevity of the template, but a straight bit with a roller bearing makes an exact copy. Roller bearings don't last very long on straight bits though.

No, the bearings don't last long at all. I must have gone through 10 bearings, 3 bits, and an entire router for the last batch of 8 I made.