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[Ian Coughlin]

I came across a job in a permanent install where the customer would like to move the amp rack to another location about 10 feet away.  The signal cable has enough slack to be pulled back and the power is simple to move but I'm running new dedicated drops anyway.  My issue is the speaker cables are not long enough ( i only have about a foot or two of slack).  My question is what is the best way to "extend" these lines to the new amp rack location?  Speaker wire are all 2 conductor cable and there are about 8-10 of them, all 12ga. wire.

[Brad Weber]

A screw terminal barrier strip might be a good option, especially if put inside a box with a screw cover.  That would provide a clear delineation of the old and new work and offer a handy place for testing.

[Ian Coughlin]

What about sound quality? Soldering and shrink wrap?

[John Birchman, CTS]

The additional 10' or so should not effect sound quality.

You can use a spade lug (or ring lug) for each of the 12 gauge wires connection to the screw terminal strip.  With the proper spade lug, crimped with a good crimp tool, should provide a great connection, and no need for solder or heat shrink.

Also, you could use a DIN Terminal block.  The are a couple different versions, but offer a entry and exit point for wires, with a screw to tighten down the wire with (similar to a breaker in your home).  The screws also serve as test points.  They come in different gauges; 12, 10, 8, etc. They are a little bit more money, but you don't need to crimp lugs on any of the wires, and they give you a nice clean look. See link for example:

http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/dinfeedthru.pdf

John

[Ian Coughlin]

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice.

Ian

[dustin Bradley]

i would use butt connectors and shrink wrap each cable.

[Charlie Zureki]

Ian,

  if for some reason you didn't want the Box/terminal strip combination... then .... solder away and shrink wrap. Make certain you label every cable on BOTH sides of the junction.

 Quote from Tim M:  "Good Luck and have fun"

Cheers,
Hammer

[Robert Sims]

I use these from Wago. They make a 2 wire version.

[Robert Sims]

I use these from Wago. They make a 2 wire version.

[Duane Massey]

I will always go for wire nuts over any other method unless you need to make it pretty or easy to change. Label everything (of course) and use a "J" box with squeeze connectors.

[Brad Weber]

Duane Massey wrote on Sun, 30 August 2009 15:50

I will always go for wire nuts over any other method unless you need to make it pretty or easy to change.

Wire nuts for stranded audio conductors?

[Hal Bissinger/COMSYSTEC]

Brad Weber wrote on Sun, 30 August 2009 18:21

Duane Massey wrote on Sun, 30 August 2009 15:50 I will always go for wire nuts over any other method unless you need to make it pretty or easy to change. Wire nuts for stranded audio conductors?

Absolutely. They are intended for both solid and stranded and combinations of both. I'm surprised no one mentioned them before this. Like Duane said, unless you have to make it look pretty that's the way to go. When I connect the feed to the transformer leads on a ceiling speaker you don't think I'm gonna use crimps or those Wago things do you?

As to the OP's question about sound quality, unless you subscribe to that lunatic fringe audiophile crowd that says stranded wire sounds better and all that other hoo ha, any of the splice methods mentioned here will make absolutely no difference in sound quality.

-Hal

[Ivan Beaver]

I prefer butt splices.  If you stagger them they can take up very little room.

Be sure to the proper size for the wire.

[Brad Weber]

Interesting responses.  I've seen poor connections with just about every type of connector and wire nuts probably can be dependable if used and installed properly but after too many experiences with related bad connections and misapplications, my specs specifically prohibit the use of wire nuts.  I require either permanent mechanical connections or something that can be visually verified. Is solder and heat shrink really that much of a lost art?  

Actually, my biggest argument for terminal strip or terminal block type connectors in this application would be to provide demarcation between the existing work provided by others and the new work being provided.  This approach worked well on a couple of large projects where the work got split between multiple Contractors, it provided a method for each party to terminate their wiring while also making it easy to to disconnect and test either side.

[Hal Bissinger/COMSYSTEC]

I think the method to use depends on where the splice is (of which nothing was mentioned in the OP). If the splice is in a conduit supplied electrical box in a ceiling for instance wire nuts are entirely appropriate. If anybody has had any problems with them in the past it's most likely because they were not properly used. I'm always complaining about the sparkies but this is one thing they do know something about. You don't just strip the wire and screw them on.

In a rack or for extending a cable that is exposed going to a rack or speaker- then butt splices or solder and shrink wrap is the way to go. I just don't like to see splices covered with tape or shrink though because you can't check the integrity. The other guy may have done a great job soldering but all you get to see is a lump. You have no idea what's inside, and I have seen plenty of splices just twisted together.

A plus for wire nuts is that you can always take the connection apart for testing or troubleshooting. I'll always cut the wire back, restrip and use new wire nuts when I put things back together.

Note that I'm only talking about speaker wiring. Line or mic level lines are a completely different story.

-Hal

[Adam Kane]

+1 for the wirenuts in a J-box.  If the wire is west-penn 227 or something similar, those conductors are almost exactly like #12 THHN...something that wirenuts are used for everywhere.  Those connections are usually subjected to higher voltages and currents that what most any speaker wire will see.  Get them tight and there should never be an issue.

I prefer the Ideal Twisters...there are many other good wirenuts out there.

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/twi st-on/twister.jsp

[Brad Weber]

I think what happened in most of the wire nut applications that were bad were either the wrong size wire nut used or they were twisted so hard that they ended up breaking many of the strands (or weren't twisted at all and fall off the minute you touch them).

I agree on the heat shrink but you can use (or require using) clear heat shrink so that you can see the actual connection.  I also like to see clear heat shrink used where shields are dropped, instead of cutting off the shield just bend it back and hold it in place with clear heat shrink.  Easy to see where shield has been dropped and it is still there is you need it later.

[Duane Massey]

Let me clarify: ANY of the methods suggested are fine if done properly AND cost/time is not an issue. I would not advocate wire nuts on anything other than speaker wiring, and there is no doubt that it is far from the most attractive method, but it makes complete sense from a practical perspective.

I would only use terminal strips if there was a specific reason to do so, and solder or butt-connectors with shrink wrap are a permanent and time-consuming approach that is neater if exposed.

As Hal said, taking the connection apart is quick and easy if it is needed.

It all works if properly done.