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[John Shelbourn]

Why did you choose the SUB215 instead of SUB218.  What are you powering the cabs with?  Did you get plans in feet and inches?

Thanks!

[Shivraj Persaud]

John,

I was trying to get a powered sub system. The QSC HPR sounded great in the store and its a great sub but its too pricey to expand, I figure I need about 4 of those. So I decided upon B&C SUB215.

I chose 215 cause the specs are pretty good. I would really like to hear what 134db long term sounds like. I built a lab sub before but its not practical, cant put that in my house. Play it with a 60 RMS amp and the neighbors complain   . Plus I like the sound of front loaded subs. I will be taking that apart to use the drivers in 2 sealed boxes.

I am getting two yamaha p5000s amps to push each sub. That should be sufficient. QSC is simply too pricey, plus I think Yamaha quality is right up there with QSC.

I still didnt start building them, I just got the wood.

Oh on inches and mm, I converted everything to mm to make it simple to use teh plans. Dont try to conver it to inches, it will be nuts. Plywood is 18 mm thick, just need to make minor adjustments like at teh port to keep it at 2 inches.

[Shivraj Persaud]

here's a pic

[Shivraj Persaud]

another

[Shivraj Persaud]

driver

[Shivraj Persaud]

driver

[Shivraj Persaud]

pic

[Shivraj Persaud]

pic

[Cosmas Bain]

looking nice

[Elliot Thompson]

That is a nice classic design.

I would strongly suggest you add more bracing. You have a lot of large panels that are going to "ring" when the right tone comes to pass. Also, damp the rear wall.

Adding a 2 by 4 or 2 by 2  from the front of the baffle board to the rear wall will prevent the "flexing affect" which very when boxes are as deep as yours.

It looks around 762 mm deep.

Best Regards,