Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Gerry Seymour]

Brian Adams wrote on Mon, 08 November 2010 17:57

I have 3 tips for you, and I've emphasized what I feel are the most important points in bold. Use D-size (Neutrik) connectors. Solder the connector on the wire, then mount it on the panel from the back.  Use #4 Pan head screws and Keps nuts.  Plan ahead and order black screws and the appropriately sized Keps nuts from Fastenal or other supplier. Use a Brother P-touch labeller (or similar) to label the panel.

I'm on board with everything on this, except I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "mount it on the panel from the back".

[Brian Adams]

Mount it so that the flange of the connector is behind the panel, instead of on the front.  It allows you to easily move the connectors if you ever decide to rearrange them.  It also allows you to easily remove the connectors to repair or replace them.

I'll try to get a photo when I get back to work.

[Gerry Seymour]

OK, I see what you mean. That leaves me wondering about color coding. I had intended to use the D-type plastic color plates behind the flange. With the flange behind the panel, I'm not sure those are still functional (or nearly as attractive - yes, I'm like that .

I'm not sure there will be much call for swapping, as two panels will be entirely XLR jacks (with XLR connectors on the attached cables). Not much sense swapping those around, and any replacement due to failure is about the same amount of effort, either way.

[Thomas Bishop]

Brian Adams wrote on Mon, 08 November 2010 17:57

I have 3 tips for you, and I've emphasized what I feel are the most important points in bold. Use D-size (Neutrik) connectors. Solder the connector on the wire, then mount it on the panel from the back.  Use #4 Pan head screws and Keps nuts.  Plan ahead and order black screws and the appropriately sized Keps nuts from Fastenal or other supplier. Use a Brother P-touch labeller (or similar) to label the panel.

Interesting thoughts.  I like the P-Touch idea and use it myself, but I typically mount my Neutrik D's from the front and prefer rivets.

[Joe Brugnoni]

I only like rivets if I can use a air riverter,it is the only thing I have used that can get them tight. The hand ones just dont seem to get it done.

[Jonathan Kok]

Brian Adams wrote on Mon, 08 November 2010 17:57

I have 3 tips for you, and I've emphasized what I feel are the most important points in bold. Use D-size (Neutrik) connectors. Solder the connector on the wire, then mount it on the panel from the back.  Use #4 Pan head screws and Keps nuts.  Plan ahead and order black screws and the appropriately sized Keps nuts from Fastenal or other supplier. Use a Brother P-touch labeller (or similar) to label the panel.

As he noted...he plans on colour-coding everything with the Neutrik colour-labels.  So connectors have to mount on the front, in this case.  Otherwise, great idea.  There's a certain Neutrik connector that will not function if done this way, though...frustratingly, I can't remember what it was.  Think it was NL4?  I just remember doing exactly this on a panel that was incorrectly punched, but needed to be installed temporarily until its replacement was built...ended up having to un-solder the hole thing.  Gah...wish I could remember why???  Perhaps it was specific to this panel...

+1 on the Kep nuts (nuts with star-washers attached).



For correct shrink application, Lee posted instructions on page 2 of this thread:
    http://srforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/mv/msg/61929/0/0/2 6642/


Use a flanged panel for this.  You can drill a hole in the flange, and use it as an attachment point for your strain relief zip-tie.

Depending on how much you want to spend, it may be worth getting the panel punched and engraved, if you don't plan on ever changing it. We use Rapco, but there are others as well.

Shrink-tube size depends on the shrink ratio.  Some are 2:1, some are 4:1.  Labelling varies by manufacturer; some label according to the shrunk size, some according to the un-shrunk size.

[Tony "T" Tissot]

I just saw these today.

http://www.audiopile.net/products/Adaptors_Connectors/XLR_Pa nel_Jacks/NA3FDM/NA3FDM_cutsheet.shtml


First time that I've seen this concept at a price that makes sense. The ones I've always seen were 2 to 4 times the cost.

I will never need to solder a new panel again.

[Gerry Seymour]

Jonathan Kok wrote on Tue, 09 November 2010 18:01

+1 on the Kep nuts (nuts with star-washers attached).

This is the kind of thing I figured you guys would key in on. I'd never have thought to use anything other than a plain hex nut. And I won't bother to ask why - Keps nuts went on the shopping list as soon as he posted that.

Quote:

For correct shrink application, Lee posted instructions on page 2 of this thread:      http://srforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/mv/msg/61929/0/0/2 6642/

I got that. I'm certain mine won't be as neat as his directions, but I'll get as close as I can.

Quote:

Shrink-tube size depends on the shrink ratio.  Some are 2:1, some are 4:1.  Labelling varies by manufacturer; some label according to the shrunk size, some according to the un-shrunk size.

Gee, maybe there's a reason I didn't know what size shrink to buy.  

[Gerry Seymour]

I caught these on another thread at even better prices. I'm weighing them as an option. If you've followed my prior postings, you know how tight the budget I deal with for equipment is. I'm probably paying for these patch bays out of my own pocket, so I'll probably stick to the less-expensive option of reasonable connectors and a lot of soldering.

Just don't tell my wife (who'll be doing the soldering) that there was an option.