Ahh, yes, the good 'ol cut plan.
Louie,
Here is a step-by-step of some of the basics:
- Obtain materials and drivers. As far as materials for the box, best to use plywood, as opposed to particle board or MDF - I advise against using either for cabinets that will be moved around. OSB can be used.. if you are planning on rat fur covering. Birch ply is best - just be sure that the ply you buy doesn't have another filler wood on the interior layers. It should be the same as the outer veneer.
- Based on material, develop a cut plan that will maximize best use of material actually obtained and minimize waste. Remember to include compensation distances for any special cuts like Dados, Miters, rabbiting, and allow extra depth on the sides, top, and bottom to allow recessing the speaker behond a grille. Adding an extra inch or so is optimum for most designs. In any case be sure to allow for maximum excursion of driver to NOT make contact with grille!
- Cut panels to size with either a table saw, or a circular saw with a staightedge clamped to the work material. If using straightedge, ensure there is the proper compensation distance between edge of plate on saw and saw blade.
- Do any finish cutouts (like speaker cutouts, handles, etc), dados, and other work that can't be done if box gets assembled.
- Assemble box using either a polyurethane or similar glue. Gorilla glue, Sumo glue, and similar produce best results. Use either clamps (best), or tack down with brads or staples. Use screws for any removable panels.
- As far as screws, Speaker should be fastened with T-nuts and machine screws. Pick a large enough diameter. Ditto this method for using a speaker clamp as well.
- Make sure final result is will sealed against airleaks. Be aware that handles, signal connectors, and the speaker fram can allow airleaks to occur. Use Silicon rubber for all non-disassemblable surfaces and joints, and use felt, sponge rubber, or similar material for all disassembled joints, such as speakers, connector plates, handles, and grilles (yes, these will tend to rattle pretty badly otherwise).
- Also, large panels will tend to vibrate. You should use some internal bracing, such as 2X2 or 2x4 in larger boxes, as vibration of a panel means that useful energy is being lost, particularly in subs. Spacing isn't as critical as making sure there is enough. I like to use a rule of thumb of at least one per every 12 linear inches.
Not the complete list! I just don't have time to do ALL of the different aspects..
HTH, and everyone else feel free to contribute what I left out.
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Topic: DIY compact sub cabinet (Read 14534 times)