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Author Topic: DIY compact sub cabinet  (Read 12123 times)

Mike {AB} Butler

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #20 on: April 29, 2008, 04:18:06 pm »

Arr. Thanks, man!!  Smile
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Mike Butler,
Principal, Technology and Operations,
Dascott Technologies, LLC

Peter Wing

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #21 on: April 29, 2008, 07:49:47 pm »

True about the horn loaded subs not being good for time accuracy, but the HD15 has about 16 inches of horn length, its a bandpass horn, and would likely measure at less than 1.5ms of horn delay. Which is fine in my opinion.  
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Marjan Milosevic

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #22 on: April 29, 2008, 08:18:25 pm »

HD15 is not a sub. It is a kick bin. Good 80-150 Hz.

Louie Warren

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #23 on: April 30, 2008, 04:59:19 pm »

Marjan Milosevic(MarjanM) wrote on Tue, 29 April 2008 20:18

HD15 is not a sub. It is a kick bin. Good 80-150 Hz.


Isn't that what I want?
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Louie Warren

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #24 on: April 30, 2008, 05:33:37 pm »

Another stupid question... can someone explain, in layman's terms, Bandpass vs Sealed vs Vented... I am assuming the sealed is just that with no port and the vented is ported?  I probably know what is what, just not these terms.  Thanx!

L
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John Roberts {JR}

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #25 on: April 30, 2008, 07:27:40 pm »

Louie Warren wrote on Wed, 30 April 2008 16:33

Another stupid question... can someone explain, in layman's terms, Bandpass vs Sealed vs Vented... I am assuming the sealed is just that with no port and the vented is ported?  I probably know what is what, just not these terms.  Thanx!

L



I'm not a speaker expert but I'll give it a pass.. First loudspeaker design is the ultimate engineering compromise where you are constantly trading off one characteristic for another. These different box approaches represent different design approaches with their characteristic tradeoffs.

The simplest loudspeaker is the sealed box (aka infinite baffle- while it isn't really infinite) loudspeaker. This is the baseline for performance and still considered the best by some Hifi purists.

The first trade off is the ported cabinet. This trick, adds a hole (port) and uses the rear wave of the driver when combined with the front wave to extend LF response. The compromise is ripples in the passband and faster bass rolloff when it does finally roll off. Another downside is that below port tuning there is no box damping to prevent driver over-excursion.

The bandpass box, is even trickier than the ported output box where it uses a tuned front chamber and back chamber to increase output. These are generally done to increase output efficiency in exchange for extended bandwidth.

The phase and amplitude response of the more complex speaker approaches are less simple but this is generally not considered a big problem compared to getting another another octave lower for given box/driver or doubling the SPL output over a narrower range.

Perhaps a real speaker guy will expand on this (or correct me).

JR

PS: and then there are horns...
 
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Winston Gamble

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #26 on: May 01, 2008, 12:10:13 am »

Louie Warren wrote on Wed, 30 April 2008 22:33

Another stupid question... can someone explain, in layman's terms, Bandpass vs Sealed vs Vented... I am assuming the sealed is just that with no port and the vented is ported?  I probably know what is what, just not these terms.  Thanx!

L


Here are a couple site with some definitions.
 http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Types+of+subwoof er
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/
Winston

Tony "T" Tissot

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #27 on: May 01, 2008, 01:24:47 pm »

Louie Warren wrote on Tue, 29 April 2008 12:12



I saw spec sheets with charts and figures, but no blueprint or the like...


http://www.eminence.com/pdf/cab-kappapro-15lf-2.pdf

Slightly newer version.
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Louie Warren

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #28 on: May 01, 2008, 01:33:04 pm »

Tony "T" Tissot wrote on Thu, 01 May 2008 13:24

Louie Warren wrote on Tue, 29 April 2008 12:12



I saw spec sheets with charts and figures, but no blueprint or the like...


http://www.eminence.com/pdf/cab-kappapro-15lf-2.pdf

Slightly newer version.



Yes, that's what I was talking about... I was looking for something like this:
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/voxamp/voxcab6.gif

A step by step of how to build it... speaker building for dummies if you will.  I'm a guitar player...  Smile
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Mike {AB} Butler

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Re: DIY compact sub cabinet
« Reply #29 on: May 02, 2008, 09:08:23 am »

Ahh, yes, the good 'ol cut plan.  Cool
Louie,
Here is a step-by-step of some of the basics:
- Obtain materials and drivers. As far as materials for the box, best to use plywood, as opposed to particle board or MDF - I advise against using either for cabinets that will be moved around. OSB can be used.. if you are planning on rat fur covering. Birch ply is best - just be sure that the ply you buy doesn't have another filler wood on the interior layers. It should be the same as the outer veneer.
- Based on material, develop a cut plan that will maximize best use of material actually obtained and minimize waste. Remember to include compensation distances for any special cuts like Dados, Miters, rabbiting, and allow extra depth on the sides, top, and bottom to allow recessing the speaker behond a grille. Adding an extra inch or so is optimum for most designs. In any case be sure to allow for maximum excursion of driver to NOT make contact with grille!
- Cut panels to size with either a table saw, or a circular saw with a staightedge clamped to the work material. If using straightedge, ensure there is the proper compensation distance between edge of plate on saw and saw blade.
- Do any finish cutouts (like speaker cutouts, handles, etc), dados, and other work that can't be done if box gets assembled.
- Assemble box using either a polyurethane or similar glue. Gorilla glue, Sumo glue, and similar produce best results. Use either clamps (best), or tack down with brads or staples. Use screws for any removable panels.
- As far as screws, Speaker should be fastened with T-nuts and machine screws. Pick a large enough diameter. Ditto this method for using a speaker clamp as well.
- Make sure final result is will sealed against airleaks. Be aware that handles, signal connectors, and the speaker fram can allow airleaks to occur. Use Silicon rubber for all non-disassemblable surfaces and joints, and use felt, sponge rubber, or similar material for all disassembled joints, such as speakers, connector plates, handles, and grilles (yes, these will tend to rattle pretty badly otherwise).
- Also, large panels will tend to vibrate. You should use some internal bracing, such as 2X2 or 2x4 in larger boxes, as vibration of a panel means that useful energy is being lost, particularly in subs. Spacing isn't as critical as making sure there is enough. I like to use a rule of thumb of at least one per every 12 linear inches.
Not the complete list! I just don't have time to do ALL of the different aspects..
HTH, and everyone else feel free to contribute what I left out.  Cool
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Mike Butler,
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Dascott Technologies, LLC

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