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[Scott Deeter]

Tim Padrick wrote on Sun, 20 January 2008 20:10

A couple of #4 tapping screws will prevent tee-nut spin and pushout.

Could the screw idea work on the Prop nuts with notching them on each side or I should say making notches across from one another?

[Mike {AB} Butler]

Sure you could, Scott, but is it really worth your time (grinding the edges away from each t-nut) to do it?
I've found that even with the screws on the outside edge, the protection and stability afforded is good. Another thought about your notch idea is that it would put the screws close to the drill hole.. making for a weaker foundation for both screws and t-nuts..
To the OP: I use exclusively the legged t-nuts for the last 35 or so years.. with no issues. I have used the screw-in attachment method described by John successfully as well.. but have found a better method is that being as most t-nuts are near openings.. a pair of vise grips or a small bar or C clamp does a great job at swaging in t-nuts. Just use a small piece of bar stock on the opposite side of the wood from the t-nut.. especially with the vise grips. A bit slower than pounding in.. but more effective..
Last, I have used the epoxy/glue/silicone rubber method for attaching/ permanentizing t-nuts.. and I have found the screw method, or securing a block of ply above the t-nut with 2 - 4 screws straddling the t-nut to be far faster.. with better hold results..
Regards,

[John Halliburton]

Tim,

If you want to screw a Tee-nut in, just use weld nuts with small holes already in the flange:

www.mcmastercarr.com   search catalog number:  90611A300

Different flange diameters are available too.

Mike,

I've used both methods, but find when my main assembly tool is a cordless drill, the method of drawing them in with a bolt attached to a driver on the drill is quicker-there was a point where we had our machinist make a driver bit we could fasten threaded stock into and have it mimic a driver bit holder.

Best regards,

John

[Mike {AB} Butler]

John,
Good points. The thing I don't like about the drill is that the torque will sometimes cause the teeth to get bent.. and the t-nut doesn't adhere/bite as well...
Regards,

[John Halliburton]

Mike,

Who ya telln' ta get bent? ;>)

Yes, start slow, and a clutch on the cordless can be helpful-plus I use some fender washers to spread the pressure out to draw the nut in more evenly.

Best regards,


John

[Duane Massey]

Excellent advice from everyone; I would add the obvious, which is to install screws in the T-nuts before you paint. I agree on the "wing" T-nuts, much better product than the three-legged creatures.

[Kevin Pippen]

I found this company that seems to be a good source for several different styles of T-Nuts... http://www.stafast.com

Kev