Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Kevin Pippen]

I would like opinions from experienced cabinet builders that have used both of the styles shown below and which style of fastener they prefer and why... I have read that "style B" is the better choice for MDF, HDF, etc.,...but I'm particularly interested in their use for securing drivers and access panels to Birch ply... In addition, I would appreciate in any tips-n-tricks for installing either style... Also, if anyone has a better solution to these please post your suggestions and a picture if possible...


STYLE A (STANDARD T-NUT)



STYLE B (HURRICANE, PROPEL, OR PROPELLER NUT)




Thank you in advance for your comments and suggestions!...

Kev

[John Halliburton]

"It Depends".

1.  Both will strip out.
2.  The propel nut in MDF or harder sheet goods is a bit easier to install.
3.  The Tee-nut is faster, and comes in more varieties.
4.  If you have no room to pound a Tee-nut in with a hammer or hammer-like device, you can draw them in with a mating screw.  I find this easier with the propel nuts however.
5.  If pounding a Tee-nut, do so on the bench to the piece in question before installing, they'll tend to go in better and straighter.
6. If you are drawing either in with a cordless drill-driver bit, use a standard flat washer and an oversized fender washer on the installation bolt/screw, as it will deform the plywood/MDF less when you tighten it down.  It's a cosmetic issue mainly.
7.  Get them with the longest barrel that will fit in the thickness of material used-they stay in better.
8.  Spritz compressed air and check for debris in them before final assembly, it will cut down on mangled threads.
9.  "Hopper Feed" style Tee-nuts can give you more clearance for mounting around speaker cutouts-the prongs are paired and opposed vs. evenly spaced around the flange.

Damn, almost made a "Top Ten" list out of this.  

Best regards,

John

[Al Limberg]

10. A drop of West System epoxy carefully applied to the surface that mates with the panel will prevent 'fallout' after assembly.
Use caution not to let any epoxy enter the threads!

?;o)
Al

[Kevin Pippen]

John Halliburton wrote on Thu, 17 January 2008 10:56

9.  "Hopper Feed" style Tee-nuts can give you more clearance for mounting around speaker cutouts-the prongs are paired and opposed vs. evenly spaced around the flange.

Hi John,

Thanks for the advice!... Is this the style you were refering to?...



I like that they are blind so if a little epoxy is added to the shaft and base it won't get inside...

Thanks!

Kev


EDIT: Hello Al,...Thank you for the advice!...

[John Halliburton]

That is the style to which I referred.
My feeling WRT epoxy is mixed(no pun intended).  It has benefits, but when you have to remove a stripped Tee-nut, the epoxy can make a bit of a mess tearing more of the plywood/MDF out.
The Propel nuts are less inclined to fall or pop out though.



Best regards,

John

[Kevin Pippen]

John,

In your opinion which is better for birch ply "hopper" or "propel"?...

Kev

[John Halliburton]

My default is the hopper style Tee-nut, the propel nut for tricky spots where you may not be able to pound in a Tee-nut, which is the real decision maker-both do what they're supposed to do.

Best regards,

John

[Kevin Pippen]

Hello John,

Thank you very much!...

Kev

[Tim Padrick]

A couple of #4 tapping screws will prevent tee-nut spin and pushout.

[Kevin Pippen]

Hi Tim,

Thank you for posting and the excellent advice!...

Kev

[Scott Deeter]

Tim Padrick wrote on Sun, 20 January 2008 20:10

A couple of #4 tapping screws will prevent tee-nut spin and pushout.

Could the screw idea work on the Prop nuts with notching them on each side or I should say making notches across from one another?

[Mike {AB} Butler]

Sure you could, Scott, but is it really worth your time (grinding the edges away from each t-nut) to do it?
I've found that even with the screws on the outside edge, the protection and stability afforded is good. Another thought about your notch idea is that it would put the screws close to the drill hole.. making for a weaker foundation for both screws and t-nuts..
To the OP: I use exclusively the legged t-nuts for the last 35 or so years.. with no issues. I have used the screw-in attachment method described by John successfully as well.. but have found a better method is that being as most t-nuts are near openings.. a pair of vise grips or a small bar or C clamp does a great job at swaging in t-nuts. Just use a small piece of bar stock on the opposite side of the wood from the t-nut.. especially with the vise grips. A bit slower than pounding in.. but more effective..
Last, I have used the epoxy/glue/silicone rubber method for attaching/ permanentizing t-nuts.. and I have found the screw method, or securing a block of ply above the t-nut with 2 - 4 screws straddling the t-nut to be far faster.. with better hold results..
Regards,

[John Halliburton]

Tim,

If you want to screw a Tee-nut in, just use weld nuts with small holes already in the flange:

www.mcmastercarr.com   search catalog number:  90611A300

Different flange diameters are available too.

Mike,

I've used both methods, but find when my main assembly tool is a cordless drill, the method of drawing them in with a bolt attached to a driver on the drill is quicker-there was a point where we had our machinist make a driver bit we could fasten threaded stock into and have it mimic a driver bit holder.

Best regards,

John

[Mike {AB} Butler]

John,
Good points. The thing I don't like about the drill is that the torque will sometimes cause the teeth to get bent.. and the t-nut doesn't adhere/bite as well...
Regards,

[John Halliburton]

Mike,

Who ya telln' ta get bent? ;>)

Yes, start slow, and a clutch on the cordless can be helpful-plus I use some fender washers to spread the pressure out to draw the nut in more evenly.

Best regards,


John

[Duane Massey]

Excellent advice from everyone; I would add the obvious, which is to install screws in the T-nuts before you paint. I agree on the "wing" T-nuts, much better product than the three-legged creatures.

[Kevin Pippen]

I found this company that seems to be a good source for several different styles of T-Nuts... http://www.stafast.com

Kev