ProSoundWeb Community

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
 on: Today at 06:13:32 am 
Started by John Fruits - Last post by John Fruits
It might not be such a bad thing, considering this earlier news.
Elation news

 on: Today at 04:55:27 am 
Started by Dennis Wiggins - Last post by Scott Holtzman
I don't think you will get the increase you are expecting going from 4 to 8.

You are better off selling the four and getting something more performant. 

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

 on: Today at 04:29:02 am 
Started by Jim Babo - Last post by boburtz
Hello everyone, new here and being DJing for a couple of years. I used a brand new pair of JBL SRX815Ps for a gig last Saturday and I ran them pretty good for 8 hours. About five hours into it I was getting LIMIT flash on the LCD and I smelled a funny smell, electronic. As I brought the volume down, limit would go off and no more smell. Speakers are working fine but I am a little worried about the smell and limit light. I also set the speaker main volume to 0, didn't want to touch it. Should lit be set higher than that? I used a Behringer 18 in powered sub but left the SRX setting to preset main. The manuals are not much help with these questions and hope to get some input from the pros. Thank you

We took a pair of SRX812p out for a maiden voyage with a small outdoor festival stage where we weren't expecting a lot of people to be in front of the stage. We also had four JBL single 18" subs lined up in front of the stage (MP418s). It actually was a good balance, those srx800's are pretty stinkin' loud! We ran the system for about 8 hours and after the seventh hour I started occasionally hearing a very audible, crunchy distortion that was becoming more and more frequent. I walked up to one of the 812s and noticed a burning plasticky smell and saw the limit light was on, not steady but it was mostly in limit. The limiters on these are very transparent, so you would never know it was limiting unless you were turning it up and not getting more volume, or you were looking at the limiter light. I suspect I was probably in the limiters all day. Anyhow, I turned it down and the distortion went away, I have never heard it since, and we use these things all the time.  I opened it up when I got it back to the shop and I didn't notice anything visually obvious in any of the electronics to indicate permanent damage. These were being run at line level, 0db on the input and the output.
I'm sure you're fine, just keep an eye on the limiters and try to run them within their linear limits. They are great speakers.

 on: Today at 04:06:09 am 
Started by Nige Eastick - Last post by Nige Eastick
Hi everyone a newbie here.
If this is the wrong section then i apologise.
Ive got a basic understanding of bridged and stereo on pa amp. Ive got a wharedale mp 1800 amp.
Specs below
Key Features

8 Ohms x 2: 330W RMS
4 Ohms x 2: 600W RMS
2 Ohms x 2: 1900W RMS
8 Ohms Bridged: 1200W RMS
4 Ohms Bridged: 1800W RMS
Class AB Technology
Suitable for touring, rental and installation
3 x Speakon and bare wire outputs
Peak and protect LEDs
Rear panel ground lift switch
All steel construction
Continuously variable speed fan
Stereo and Bridge modes
2 x XLR, 2 x 6.3mm jack inputs.
What it is im a drummer, and at larger venues to have my own 18" subwoofer for the kick/ bass drum sound reinforcement,  just the one sub at front in the  middle, when i do decide to get a sub, would i better off at 8ohms or 4 ohms?
I understand when you bridge a amp it cuts the impedance by half, ie 8ohms =4 ohms and 4ohms =2 ohms.
So my understanding would be if i do have to bridge my amp a 8ohm 18" would be better? As its running in 4ohms. And if later on get another 8ohm speaker daisy chain the two so its still going into 4ohm bridged in the amp.
I do understand though, if my amp is powerful enough to drive a speaker in stereo mode then will do that.
Much appreciated for any replies.

 on: Today at 03:38:12 am 
Started by Scott Olewiler - Last post by Steve Mason

I offered my megaphone, but it was a Mackie and she said only a Meyer or D&B were acceptable options.

People and their unreasonable riders.

 on: Today at 02:16:57 am 
Started by Steven Welwood - Last post by Nathan Riddle
Post up your location.

There's either people nearby or you can fly someone in for a day/two to do this.

 on: Today at 01:36:18 am 
Started by lionel rodrigues - Last post by lionel rodrigues
Not compatible at this point.  You should join the ui-24r closed group on Facebook.   There are many user there, very few here.
Thank you.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 on: Today at 01:08:59 am 
Started by Matt Greene - Last post by Mike Caldwell

While the primary use would be on a shelf on the wall, I'd like the option to take them on the road when performing outside of the space.

Setting speakers on a shelf would be a bad idea, no way to really aim the speakers as they most likely would need to be aimed as in tilted down to the seating area, you don't want to mount the shelf at angle! Strapping them through the handle and to the shelf also not a good idea.

With powered speakers in an install you need to think out power to the speakers and how to turn them on and off. The proper way would be to use a power sequencing system to power the entire system on and off in the proper sequence, remote power modules are used for things like power speakers.

 on: Today at 12:56:47 am 
Started by Steven Welwood - Last post by Steven Welwood
There are lots of independent people who can "tune" a system.

But here is the problem.

What happens if they get there, and the cabinets are not hung properly? ie the angles between the cabinets, the position of the array etc.

Electrical adjustment can only do so much, but if the install is not properly done, there could still be coverage issues.

Often people don't want to be responsible for others work.

You can end up with awkard situations such the "tuner" says the hang isn't correct, and the installer say the "tuner" doesn't know what he is doing.

And it could  either one or a combination of both.

 I have meet  quite a few "tuners" who can talk a good game, but don't really have a good measurement foundation.

I have also seen installations in which I say to myself "WHAT were they thinking?"

In my opinion, it is the responsibility of the person selling the job/installing the job to insure that it is covering properly and working properly.

Yup, I totally agree with you. Unfortunately I don't think we'll get what we're looking for by going back to the installer. First, it's been over a year since it was installed, and second, he'll probably come back in with his RTA, make a few tweaks, and call it good. Like I said, this decision was made before I was here. I'm just wondering who to call now to get it done properly as properly as possible.

As far as what can be done, there's nothing stopping us from changing the angle between the boxes. Turning the array would be more of a challenge, but not impossible.

I realize it's not a good situation to put someone into, and I know there's "only so much [you] can do with the rig as installed," as David said. I'm just looking for the person to get what's possible out of this rig.

There are lots of independent people who can "tune" a system.

What person *should* be qualified to do this?

 on: Today at 12:55:17 am 
Started by Dennis Wiggins - Last post by Mark Cadwallader
Replace with K&M cups?  Designed in metric, for metric, by folks who have only ever spoken metric....  I suspect (but do not know) that German-made K&M will likely be built to closer tolerences than those spec'ed for a mass-market product.

I have a set of K&M sub poles with the expanding mandrel tops. They hold very well. (As in I can vertically lift an inverted PRX 612 or 615 top, using just the sub pole as the lifting handle.)

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10

Page created in 0.033 seconds with 15 queries.