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 on: Today at 03:21:14 am 
Started by Ken Webster - Last post by Ken Webster
The transformer would be after the the pre-amp circuit and is used is the dual impedance output selection.

Even the slightest amount of wind hitting a microphone capsule imparts more force on the capsule than just talking into it.

Yep, I thought I pretty much said that, I just had a memory of a comment suggesting it did a little more but on reading through again I don't see that now.  I have rewired the mic and it's just the same as before.  Pick up breath and pop sounds in speech but no actual sound.  The preamp is just 2 caps and 1 transformer.  I can only see a value on the electrolytic cap, so I could try replacing it.  Is that a chance or more likely a damaged capsule?

On a plus, I had success with our only other condenser mic today.  Battery case terminal had gone open circuit, so I replaced the spring's rivet with a brass screw and nut.  I have no idea what this mic is though, looks a bit like a CALREC 1050 but not quite.  I expect it's rubbish but will try it on some instruments to see if it's at all useful.

We hadn't had musicians for quite a while.  Until recently we had been merging singers with recorded music.  We have some musicians again now but only once a month or so and it's usually just a clavinova and drums.  Been surviving with SM58s but it would be nice to have some decent instrument mics for the occasional acoustic instrument, or some super cardioids when we do a carols event with a live band and choir.  However these events are so infrequent, I can't see how I can justify the expense.  We would do better upgrading the AV computers and getting some analysis software and calibrated mics to tweak sound cards and EQ.  That seem to me a bigger bang for buck.  I am just training 2 new sound people and couldn't show them a working condenser mic.  That's what prompted me to have a go at them.

 on: Today at 01:46:58 am 
Started by Scott Holtzman - Last post by Scott Holtzman
Funny, when I first saw the OP, I thought- hmm Ray is kneeling next to Scott, then when this came up, all I could think of was "Straighten up and Fly Right"...

Funny Art.  Nah we are both standing up.  I am 6'3" Ray has a good 3" on me.

 on: Today at 01:30:00 am 
Started by Robert Lofgren - Last post by Corey Scogin
I did this quick(?) video showing how-to import xlive audio into some daws.

For anyone interested in a faster way to explode X-Live wav files in Reaper, I created a custom script. You can download it on Github here.

The script is in the Items Editing subfolder. It's named "CoreyScogin_Explode multi-channel items to mono without rendering.lua". It's the only script there for now.

To install it: Download it. In Reaper type "?" to bring up the actions list. Next to ReaScript, click Load. Select the downloaded script.

To use it: Select a multi-channel item in Reaper and run the script. It will explode the item immediately without rendering. You can then select the tracks you need as mono files and render stems as usual in Reaper. This script will work for multiple files/items.

 on: Today at 01:22:59 am 
Started by Richard_Stringer - Last post by duane massey
IF you have woodworking skills an basic tools, DIY would be a worthwhile option, but only if you don't have a need to offer pro-level branded speakers.

 on: Today at 01:16:24 am 
Started by Scott Holtzman - Last post by Art Welter
Left trim?  It's a single torque pulls you to the left, trim is usually biased right.

Anyway, the answer is enough to make the plane fly straight.

Oh wait, that was a shot on my size.  I am immune.
Funny, when I first saw the OP, I thought- hmm Ray is kneeling next to Scott, then when this came up, all I could think of was "Straighten up and Fly Right"...

 on: Today at 01:11:17 am 
Started by Debbie Dunkley - Last post by Mike Karseboom
I think the "box connector" is a major source of problems if the pins get  oxidized or the connection is becomes somehow compromised.   See the old post below that seems to echo some of the issues in this thread.

I had both of my DSR112's fail last weekend when used as mains over srx718 subs for a band at an outdoor wedding.  They were being driven fairly hard for a party of 120 or so but crossed over at 100Hz and not clipping.  No direct sun but the temp was around 90F.

Both boxes shut themselves off during the last 1/2 hour, after about 3 hours of continuous use.  They did not seem overly hot and smelled OK but maybe it was thermal protection.  They came back to life after turning them off and on.  Unfortunately one of them continued to go off and after successively shorter periods of coming back to life, it would not stay on at all. 

The other one stayed on the rest of the gig.  But the next day it started crackling and distorting when being used as a monitor.  I had this same problem with the same box last year and sent it in for repair.  The repair notes were somewhat obtuse and referenced some plate being tightened.

Having a need  for these boxes for a festival starting tomorrow I  thought I would at do an internal inspection of the drivers and electronics.  The drivers looked and felt good and sounded OK when driven from a conventional amp. 

I could not see anything burned or loose in the plate amp but did note these feature ribbon cables between the input block and the main amp block.  Ribbon cables have been a source of problems for me in the past with an old Mackie 1604 mixer and with my DR260 processors.  And, sure enough, cleaning and re-seating the ribbon cables completely fixed the distorting box and brought the dead box back to life except no woofer.

Additional disassembly and  tinkering with the box with the non-functional woofer exposed a somewhat unusual rigid multi-pin pass-through connector between the 3 circuit boards in the input block.  After pulling this apart and putting it back together to re-seat / clean it, the woofer came back to life. Yeah!

Now both boxes seem to be working 100% again.  My conclusion is that the ribbon cable connections and rigid multi-pin connectors can exhibit bad connectivity after some time in use.  I suppose this is the result of the constant vibration they must endure. 

I drive the boxes hard  when used as mains and this may exacerbate the problem.  I don't drive them into clipping and don't feel like I abuse these speakers.  Rather, I am of the opinion that the design of the connectors is weak.  I have K12's, PRX615's, and PRX712's that have been driven just as hard for more years of use and none of them have failed in any way.

I love the sound of the DSR112 but when I add these 3 separate failures to my list of complaints about the physical packaging, the love affair is becoming a bit tarnished.  I don't think I will be buying any more of these.

 on: Today at 12:42:24 am 
Started by Robert Weaver - Last post by Jonathan Johnson
Standard disclaimer: I am not a rigging engineer, nor am I a structural engineer. What I am about to say is not based on ANY load calculations, but is pure conjecture.

My gut reaction is that metal studs are NOT designed to support significant point loading. Maybe you could get away with toggle bolts, if they go through the flange of the stud. (I don't know though. Like I said, I'm not an engineer.) Either way, I'd be leery of mounting that weight to the studs. A possible alternative would be a backing plate on the opposite side of the wall, sandwiching the wall between the backing plate and the speaker mount with through bolts. Of course, that depends on what's on the other side of the wall.

If it was a wood stud wall, or a concrete wall, the advice would be different.

I think you have the potential for a cleaner installation with proper rigging from the ceiling structure (assuming the ceiling structure has been engineered or cleared by a structural engineer to support the weight).

As for errant balls, does that speaker have the option of a durable metal grille?

 on: Yesterday at 11:35:57 pm 
Started by Roberto Orozco - Last post by Paul G. OBrien
the part that i'm not completely sure is how to reversed the polarity  to test the drivers.
Roberto... in the third pic down in your first post there appear to be buttons in the flow diagram that are labelled POL, I believe that is short for Polarity. I bet if you click on that you will see options for normal(+) or inverted(-).

 on: Yesterday at 11:19:50 pm 
Started by Dave Garoutte - Last post by Mac Kerr
The only direct view in full sunlight capability that I am aware of for video would be LED video walls.  Projection cannot compete with the sun.


Projection can't even compete with your 50" screens for brightness. Outdoor daylight requires LED screens and they are big money and big labor.


 on: Yesterday at 11:16:28 pm 
Started by Jonathan Goodall - Last post by Andrien (No Last Name)
My distributor has SQ5s in stock.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Well we probably are from different continent ;D. Anyway seems like we might purchase Qu series instead (probably the Qu32) :-\

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