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 1 
 on: Today at 05:30:46 pm 
Started by Brian Strachan - Last post by Don T. Williams
Just some food for thought.  When Peavy first designed the SP Series, the SP 1's had an 800 Hz crossover and were rated at something like 100 or 200 watts.  As larger and larger power amps became available, the cross-over frequency when up and up to somewhere around 2.2K (and maybe higher).  I believe this was to "protect" the small HF driver.  I know transducer technology has improved over the years, but I still don't think a 15" speaker sounds good crossed over at 2K to 3K, which is very common now.  That's why the JBL SR(X) 725's (beloved by many on the forum) are not crossed that high.  They also use a large format (4" voice coil and 1.5" or 2" throat horn) that can cover frequencies between 1K and 2K.

If you really want to improve the sound of your system, look at some of the 3-way systems available now and more powerful subs.  Unfortunately it's a big step up in cost.  "Upgrading" your existing system is probably money spent with little if any audible return on that investment.  Just my opinion.

 2 
 on: Today at 05:03:33 pm 
Started by Al Rettich - Last post by Helge A Bentsen
Yes, you can.

You only need one cable to make it work.

 3 
 on: Today at 04:41:35 pm 
Started by Brian Strachan - Last post by Brian Strachan
Here's a thread from a few years ago about upgrading Yamaha SW218s with better drivers that apparently worked out ok:

http://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=138572.0


It's not something I'd be inclined to do, but if you are... well here's a start.

Congrats on scoring a PL380 for $1100, but be careful not to fry those stock Yamaha drivers (which at one time were rebadged Eminince Sigmas if memory serves me correctly). They are not the most robust - to say the least.

I'll take a look at that and give it some thought.

I am aware that amp can kick my subs to the moon. The subs will be babysat at all times so I'm not worried.

 4 
 on: Today at 04:37:39 pm 
Started by Mike Sokol - Last post by Frank Koenig
Basically a revamp of the old RayChem solder sleeve that's been around since the '60s.  There was a "zap" gun that went along with it to reflow the solder but most folks used heat guns, sometimes with a nozzle that wrapped the airflow around the sleeve.

These used to be the Mil Spec required way to terminate shields on cables.

I remember those. They were used in avionics work even on civil aircraft.

I like the crimp butt-splices with the built-in adhesive/sealant lined shrink tubing. The best of all worlds -- assuming correct wire sizes and crimp tool. I ordered a whole bunch in red, blue, and yellow 8) I'm a little skeptical if the low-temp solder splices will work reliably under field conditions with different wires sizes, platings, surface corrosion, etc. At least when I solder something with an iron I get to see the result.

On insulation displacing connectors (IDC): they can work pretty well in a controlled environment, such as manufacturing, where proven connectors are used with known compatible wire. (The world is full of ribbon headers that work pretty well, except in mixers  ::) ) Even when these conditions were met,  I remember one kind of IDC that would start to smoke if used near its rated current. We abandoned them for Faston-style lugs, as I recall. I wouldn't touch those Scotch Schlock things with a ten foot pole.

--Frank

 5 
 on: Today at 04:35:30 pm 
Started by Al Rettich - Last post by Al Rettich
About to purchase another LM44, but Iíve asked this question that no one seems to be able to explain. 

Earlier this summer I learned via Dante network you can pass your inputs over to a secondary LM44.  However, this was done via a switch.  If itís simply two units do you have to have a switch? Can I take two small cat5e jumpers between main and secondary and accomplish the same results?

 6 
 on: Today at 04:35:09 pm 
Started by Brian Strachan - Last post by Bill Hornibrook
Here's a thread from a few years ago about upgrading Yamaha SW218s with better drivers that apparently worked out ok:

http://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=138572.0


It's not something I'd be inclined to do, but if you are... well here's a start.

Congrats on scoring a PL380 for $1100, but be careful not to fry those stock Yamaha drivers (which at one time were rebadged Eminince Sigmas if memory serves me correctly). They are not the most robust - to say the least.






 7 
 on: Today at 04:11:39 pm 
Started by Steve Ferreira - Last post by Jon Dees
Router on has 1 lan/wan port. I'm beginning to think that this little router can't do what i want it to do.

My 2 Performers hate DHCP and really hate admitting that you just assigned it a static Ip. Suggest you turn off the desk, turn on DHCP and then re turn on the desk. If that fails then attempt to assign static IP multiple times and you might hit the lotto.

 8 
 on: Today at 04:10:24 pm 
Started by Brian Strachan - Last post by Brian Strachan

If you can get PL380s for under $1k each - go for it!

My point regarding the subs above - assuming premium drivers - is that horn or tapped horn designs deliver the most bass possible per driver.  4x 18" drivers in the form of Orbit Shifters, DBH218's, TH118's - is going to be far ahead of any 2x 218 front loaded subs. 

Going from budget drivers in a front loaded sub, to premium drivers in a front loaded sub is a step up.  The next step up is lots more subs, or more efficient subs (horn loaded).  Hence the recommendation to skip the higher cost front loaded designs and go a step better. 

Regarding EDM bass - I'd also argue that Danley is a top brand in that genre.  The systems I've had a hand designing, knowing there was EDM style bass needed - has always been Danley. 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

I will keep Danley in mind. I need to do research on the different styles of subs because I'm not familiar with the differences.

Also! I was wrong. The place that has 2 Danley's actually have a pair of single 15"s, not 18"s. That's likely why they have not kept up despite usually sounding very good.

 9 
 on: Today at 04:07:17 pm 
Started by Kenny Phillips - Last post by Mark Wilkinson
I prefer phase alignment (NOT to be confused with polarity).

A great article on sub alignment IMO...
http://www.excelsior-audio.com/Publications/AES_NAMM_2018_Subwoofer_Alignment_with_Full-Range_Systems,_rev02.pdf

 10 
 on: Today at 04:06:07 pm 
Started by David Pedd - Last post by Rob Spence
Whatever you end up with I would suggest making the deep investment into a 12 inch flexible extension to give you the option of coming in over the shoulder like many drummers do


Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

And make that an Atlas extension. Bargain extensions need viagra.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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