Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

Is the 2.4 better in domed arenas? 

With our 1.9 systems I've found that getting the transceivers higher up (like on the truss) does help quite a bit.

also there is a setting called audio filter, I think, that will help large arena dropout.

Is the 2.4 better in domed arenas? 

With our 1.9 systems I've found that getting the transceivers higher up (like on the truss) does help quite a bit.

For those of you that tour with FS II, have you had better luck with 1.9 or 2.4? I have the older 1.9ghz and have found it to be unusable in certain venues. CC recommends 1.9ghz in the USA, and I would think 2.4 would be pretty crowded, so hoping to get some real-world experience advice on what would be the best choice for a new system, being toured in the USA and Canada.
I wish they made a switchable transceiver and Beltpack!

The local university's athletics department has an 8 pack of Hollyland's 1.9GHz units and, from second person reports, they have had good luck with them.  This is in a Midwestern city of ~150,000 people.  I can report from personal experience that 2.4GHz wireless microphones are nearly unusable here.  You have to almost co-locate the receiver with the transmitter to use 2.4GHz systems once the audience shows up.

Morning Guys,

I have acquired 5 x Symmetrix Arc K1e all brand new boxes and 1 wall filler panel

These are over £300 each new, looking for £120 each plus postage.

I am located in Wigan UK but can post anywhere, or your welcome to collect

Any questions please let me know

As amplification for Labs I will use a JAM SYSTEMS Q7, for tops a JAM SYSTEMS Q10, as a processor a db Mark DP48PLUS, and as a mixer a Presonus studiolive 32sc.

Great!
Post your pictures ! Looks like a great project!

Looks like the venerable EAW SM222 has been resurrected - hopefully with Neo drivers

Only faital pro 12 is on neo, Eminence psd 3006 drivers are on ferrite

It's possible that there's not an external connection for the control.  Some lights put everything right on a single board, including the controller and IR and whatnot.  Over-riding that would mean cutting traces on the board and a whole bunch of monkeybusiness.

If you're doing this just by guess, there's a real chance that something could go horribly wrong and create an electrical shock hazard.  Not really the best plan.

The 3-pin wire at the bottom center would be my first suspect.

I have a DMX decoder I was able to use with a small 25W RGB floodlight for my escape room. I simply opened it up and intercepted the RGB wires and it worked great. We wanted more light so I bought the 80W version of it and its exactly what we want. However, when I opened it up, I could not for the life of me figure out where to connect a wire to control the R, G, & B signals. Both the lights were IR connected but like I said I hooked up the smaller light and it worked for what I needed exactly. So wherever I can add a wire and control the RGB signal is what I'm looking to you all for

I have a pic of the old smaller light and the new opened light. The light I need help with is the larger of the two with the 4 rows of LEDs.

HEres the link to the new lights I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTSQN697?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details