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 on: Yesterday at 11:57:28 pm 
Started by Steve Payne - Last post by Scott Holtzman
Ok that is cool.  Thanks for the tip.   Is there somewhere this example is available?   Not sure I can remember this  for next time.

I think there is a sticky on it but when I forget I just Google BBCode. 

 on: Yesterday at 11:51:25 pm 
Started by Steve Payne - Last post by Stu McDoniel
Hey Stu,

Would you mind updating your link to be a clickable link, as opposed to one that jenks up the display of the thread??

Here's all you have to do! Use this code:
[url=www.yourlink.whatever]The Link Text[/url]

So, this code:
[]Kelcema Audio[/url]

will display this:
Kelcema Audio


Ok that is cool.  Thanks for the tip.   Is there somewhere this example is available?   Not sure I can remember this  for next time.

 on: Yesterday at 11:45:56 pm 
Started by Sam Costa - Last post by Stu McDoniel
Double check the wiring on the Speakon connectors. If it is wired as shipped from EAW using an NL2 or a NL4 with only pin set 1 wired they were only ever operating one speaker in the cabinet.
I am pretty sure those loudspeakers are not wired in parallel /factory default.

 on: Yesterday at 11:40:08 pm 
Started by Rufus G. Crowder - Last post by Ivan Beaver
Just because it "fits" does not mean it will perform properly.

I HIGHLY suggest the factory recone kits.

Those drivers are just the usual factory drivers-nothing special for Danley.

We try to use standard drivers as much as possible.  This makes is easier for people to get parts or spares, without having to buy "special" drivers.

 on: Yesterday at 11:07:33 pm 
Started by Kelly_Dodge - Last post by Kelly_Dodge
So, I have a 15" coax speaker that doesn't work. I hook up a 9 volt to the woofer, and nothing happens. I get a click when I hook it to the tweeter. No obvious damage anywhere.

This is the back of the speaker:

(If the picture doesn't work, it is a DRS L15CX450 Coaxial Loudspeaker. 8 ohms, 450 watts.)

Any idea if it's fixable? Or where I can get a replacement?



 on: Yesterday at 10:34:28 pm 
Started by Steve Payne - Last post by Jeremy Young
IIRC, the difference in temperature between the air and electronics (Delta T) would transfer at a linear rate for all realistic temperatures at play here.  All other things equal (flow of media - in this case air, time, surface area of contact, thermal coefficient of material), doubling the Delta T would double the rate of heat transfer.  I suppose if the Delta T is zero, the affects of velocity may also be drastically reduced.

I don't know the velocity equations off the top of my head since my experience is "human comfort" related and human skin has a relatively narrow band of "comfortable" air velocities. I do know that turbulence is helpful at the surface of conductive heat transfer.  But there's only so much velocity that could be increased before noise became an issue.....not that a/c compressors are silent either.  How low is the noise floor where you setup camp? Will this distract the audience?  I don't think the OP was hired to cool the desert, just survive it.   

I'll stop thinking theoretical junk out loud for everyone's sake, since there are many on this forum who have significantly more experience in these circumstances.

 on: Yesterday at 10:33:48 pm 
Started by Greg Bellotte - Last post by Greg Bellotte
Finally had a day to work on this and managed to get my cards updated. A few things I figured out...

When deciding which dante updater to use, you need to go by the *software* version reported in DC, not the *firmware* version as Yamaha suggests. In this case I was already at This seems to be the best piece of the puzzle i found to make this work. Using the newer updater did not incur the TFTP error I was getting with the older updater.

The current version of Dante Updater requires you to check the box to "override device matching". Otherwise the MY16 card is not presented in the list to update. This is required even after updating thru official Yamaha firmwares, i.e. going from 3.7 to 3.10 (current).

Once the card is detected for updates, the process works fine with DHCP addresses, static addresses (tried 192.168.0.x, and 10.10.10.x ranges) and even windows auto assignments (169.254.x.x range). It even works with the WiFi enabled. With 5 cards to update I had a chance to try many scenarios. Seems a functional and correct network is all that is required. If you can't ping all devices, or they don't all show up in Dante Controller you will probably have issues.

Happily all cards are at current firmware versions now. Thanks to everyone who chimed in with ideas.

 on: Yesterday at 10:02:03 pm 
Started by Rufus G. Crowder - Last post by Kemper Watson
Yes, the 12" speaker needs the correct parts.  It's not a "generic" recone kit.

This.. And I own TH212's

 on: Yesterday at 09:51:14 pm 
Started by Steve Payne - Last post by Dave Garoutte

Speaking theoretically only (because i live in a sane climate), in your shoes i'd forget about A/C and get lots of fans.  The higher the velocity of air movement over the device, the greater the heat transfer away from the device in this case. 

I think the increase in velocity only causes a linear increase in cooling, but the difference in temperature of the air and the thing being cooled increases by like the square or cube of the difference.

 on: Yesterday at 09:40:07 pm 
Started by Joseph Amodeo - Last post by Scott Bolt
My response I posted in the DJ Forum for the same question:

This is a field where "You get what you pay for" most certainly applies. Loud, reliable, cheap - pick any two, there are no "Unicorn speakers" that can do everything all the time for next to nothing cost.
 Cheap means a lot of different things to a lot of people. My recommendation for loud & reliable would be the QSC lines, sound better & reliable, the EV ZLX & ETX lines and the Yamaha DBR & DXR series. Subs - the QSC 18 (not K-Sub) and Yorkville LS lines are practically bulletproof.
Whatever you end up getting, learn how to properly use them withing their limitations, otherwise you will be blowing up drivers.
With a little more detail (and hopefully a little more of a reality check for the O.P.) I would recommend:
1 pair of Yamaha DSR 112s. Very clear, very loud, great warranty. You would not need to upgrade these for a long time, if ever.
Subs - Yorkville LS800p or LS801p. More boom for the buck than any other subwoofer under $1500. One would suffice in most of the places you will play. Sounds good with the yamahas (I have this same setup). Downside, the sub is big and bulky & a bit boomy but it never fails to impress, especially for DJ/EDM/Hip Hop playback.
A possible option for you is to grab the Yamahas from somewhere like ZZounds that has a payment plan - you can get a pair of DSR112s for under $150/month. You should be able to find a Yorkie sub for under $800 used. More than you want to spend but that system will sound good, get very loud, be reliable, and cover everything you stated you want to do.
I think that you would have to pay 2-4 times the money to beat that system for EDM.

That being said, a pair of DSR's and a pair of LS801p's aren't really "cheep".

If size and weight are not a factor, and the budget is ~2K, then a single one of each would be impressive indeed for EDM.

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