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 11 
 on: Today at 04:32:50 pm 
Started by Tracy Garner - Last post by Jean-Pierre Coetzee
I bought two used Monster Home Theater power strips to use in the gaming room I'm building for a kids. I plugged them into the wall at the house without anything actually connected and both of them are buzzing. Any thoughts on what that buzzing noise is? I only paid $5.00 for them at the local Goodwill...
Arcing? Dunno what is in them but unless there are some substantial transformers in them I would unplug them and put them in the bin...

 12 
 on: Today at 04:22:41 pm 
Started by Bobby Dobson - Last post by Jean-Pierre Coetzee
Our church just recently replaced our sound system speakers with all power front of house and monitors. We also have a separate breaker that all speakers are powered from. Is there anyway to turn off the speakers without that annoying pop or is the only way to turn off each powered speaker individually?....10 total powered speakers

As above and also make sure that you always power off in the reverse of the signal chain, that means your speakers should be powered off before any system processor and that should be powered off before the mixer and the mixer at the very least should be muted before you turn anything off/unplug anything on stage.

I would personally call back the integrator/whoever that installed the system and would have them perform proper training or install a sequencer.

BTW this makes me wonder about the questions I asked regarding whether the cat5 cable is shielded in your other thread.

 13 
 on: Today at 04:21:37 pm 
Started by Tracy Garner - Last post by Tracy Garner
I bought two used Monster Home Theater power strips to use in the gaming room I'm building for a kids. I plugged them into the wall at the house without anything actually connected and both of them are buzzing. Any thoughts on what that buzzing noise is? I only paid $5.00 for them at the local Goodwill...

 14 
 on: Today at 04:18:57 pm 
Started by Bobby Dobson - Last post by Jean-Pierre Coetzee
We have an X32......it was connected to S32 via cat5 ethercon cable. Came into church turned system on and we had a terrible hum like something was unplugged. Did some trouble shooting and found that our Aport was not working. Switched over to Bport on both X32 & S32........but nothing still worked until we use the Aport on S32 and Bport on X32 board........Any help on what is goin on?   Thx

Few more things needed here, is the cable shielded cat5? Just because it has an ethercon doesn't make it shielded trust me on this(I have a whole stage of unshielded cat5 cable that have ethercons on both end)

Have you tried rebooting the system and checking again?

Is there any internal diagnostics that you can run(I am not familiar with the X32) and what did it report?

Are both units on UPS?

What was the troubleshooting steps you took to find that port A on the X32 is not working?

This is a behringer product so...

 15 
 on: Today at 04:16:46 pm 
Started by Bobby Dobson - Last post by Rob Spence
Our church just recently replaced our sound system speakers with all power front of house and monitors. We also have a separate breaker that all speakers are powered from. Is there anyway to turn off the speakers without that annoying pop or is the only way to turn off each powered speaker individually?....10 total powered speakers

Welcome to the forum.

You will get much better answers if you always supply things like make and model of devices when asking questions.

In your case, without knowing the specific speakers, there is no way to know if there is another way.


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 16 
 on: Today at 04:14:02 pm 
Started by Bobby Dobson - Last post by Rob Spence
Can p16s run a powered floor wedge or are they just for inear systems?

I don't know anything about this specific device.
However, if it has an analog output, then it should be able to be a source for a wedge too. I would not expect it to drive a speaker directly though. It will need an amplifier or a self powered speaker. You will also need appropriate adapter cords.


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 17 
 on: Today at 04:07:30 pm 
Started by Mike Santarelli - Last post by Rob Spence
If you are doing cord-and-plug type low-power gear (and not sharing it with any other trades/vendors) then for your use it will be on the first setting (120/240) -just like your home service. 

However, since units with those type of selector switches generally don't have receptacles on them you are going to need a distro anyways (so the correct switch-position-answer is a moot point.)
Sometimes there will be a panel accessory outlet near all the controls and gauges,  -but all that machine just to run 1 outlet is ridiculous.

Somebody has to own or rent that set if it's not yours? -they are the one you should be asking. 

In fact, just telling them what type of power you need and where you need it should be your only interaction, how they get it to you and how they set their plant up is not even your concern. (because if it isn't correct you don't plug in until it is)

^ this


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 18 
 on: Today at 04:04:41 pm 
Started by Kevin Maxwell - Last post by Rob Spence
FYI, Tamper Resistant outlets were required in the 2008 code book.

For voltage checking I modified a set of leads to my Fluke meter to have a 5-15 on the end.


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 19 
 on: Today at 04:02:17 pm 
Started by Gary Fitzpatrick - Last post by Mark Mattocks
I like the Ashly NE24-24, configured as needed, with the FR-8 or 16 fader bank. You can also build a simple or complex control interface on iPad for the Ashly.

 20 
 on: Today at 03:50:03 pm 
Started by Kevin Maxwell - Last post by Kevin Maxwell
NCVT is a pain with TR.  A circuit tester should get the job done, be similarly small, and also tell you if it's wired properly (accepting that it can't sense bootleg ground).

And bootleg ground is what I wanted to test for.  :'(

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