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Church and H.O.W. – Forums for HOW Sound and AV - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Church and HOW Forums => Church Sound => Topic started by: Jason Lucas on January 16, 2013, 01:32:03 PM
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We have 8 wireless microphone receivers at my church. 3 different generations of Sennheiser and one Audio Technica receiver. That's 8 wall warts (or 7 + a power brick, in this case). This has been rather messy so me and one of the other audio techs at the church have been looking at possibly getting a DC distributor for the receivers.
Sennheiser makes a distributor/antenna combiner, but the one they make now only works with the G3s (which we only have two of). The unit that works with the G2s is no longer in production and pretty difficult to find (nothing on ebay, amazon, or any of Sennheiser's authorized dealers).
So I'm wondering if there's something 3rd party that we could use that would work?
The specs for the G2 receivers are:
Power supply: 10.5-16 V DC, nominal voltage 12 V DC
Power consumption: approx. 200 mA
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We have 8 wireless microphone receivers at my church. 3 different generations of Sennheiser and one Audio Technica receiver. That's 8 wall warts (or 7 + a power brick, in this case). This has been rather messy so me and one of the other audio techs at the church have been looking at possibly getting a DC distributor for the receivers.
Sennheiser makes a distributor/antenna combiner, but the one they make now only works with the G3s (which we only have two of). The unit that works with the G2s is no longer in production and pretty difficult to find (nothing on ebay, amazon, or any of Sennheiser's authorized dealers).
So I'm wondering if there's something 3rd party that we could use that would work?
The specs for the G2 receivers are:
Power supply: 10.5-16 V DC, nominal voltage 12 V DC
Power consumption: approx. 200 mA
Why a dc distro? This is something that is used for commercial systems applications like a computer room. etc. What you need is to somehow rack mount the receivers and route the plugs to a rackmount a/c power distro unit like a Furman. The power supply converts a/c current or voltage from any outlet to the correct d/c current for each unit. If the units are not rack mountable (they should have rakmout kits), then maybe you can build a rack with shelving for the units to sit on and the bottom shelf for the a/c distro. Hope this helps.
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Why a dc distro? This is something that is used for commercial systems applications like a computer room. etc. What you need is to somehow rack mount the receivers and route the plugs to a rackmount a/c power distro unit like a Furman. The power supply converts a/c current or voltage from any outlet to the correct d/c current for each unit. If the units are not rack mountable (they should have rakmout kits), then maybe you can build a rack with shelving for the units to sit on and the bottom shelf for the a/c distro. Hope this helps.
That was the first idea, but the number of wall warts makes is difficult. They are rack mounted (all but two at least), but the racks they're mounted in are too small to use those big long rack power strips, and if we use a smaller, regular sized one we won't be able to plug all 8 units into one strip. So then we'll need multiple strips, which we're trying to get away from...
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That was the first idea, but the number of wall warts makes is difficult. They are rack mounted (all but two at least), but the racks they're mounted in are too small to use those big long rack power strips, and if we use a smaller, regular sized one we won't be able to plug all 8 units into one strip. So then we'll need multiple strips, which we're trying to get away from...
Would some of these help? Plug your "warts" into these, then into a power strip/conditioner. I simply use sheet rock screws or small bolts to secure these to the sides, top and bottom of the rear of a rack where I have multiple "warts". A wrap of E-tape around the wart and the adapter to hold everything together and you're good to go.
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Sennheiser makes a distributor/antenna combiner, but the one they make now only works with the G3s (which we only have two of). The unit that works with the G2s is no longer in production and pretty difficult to find (nothing on ebay, amazon, or any of Sennheiser's authorized dealers).
Huh? From what I can see G3 units also operate on nominal 12V DC but require about 350ma per unit. Get a ASA1/NT G3 distribution rig and change the ends or whatever as necessary to connect your G2 units if you want fuse the G2 legs to 200ma. If the AT receiver runs on 12V nominal no reason you can't adapt it as well. I have run a mashup of Telex, Shure and Sennheiser units off our EV UHF antenna splitter for outdoor events with no issues.
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Huh? From what I can see G3 units also operate on nominal 12V DC but require about 350ma per unit. Get a ASA1/NT G3 distribution rig and change the ends or whatever as necessary to connect your G2 units if you want fuse the G2 legs to 200ma. If the AT receiver runs on 12V nominal no reason you can't adapt it as well. I have run a mashup of Telex, Shure and Sennheiser units off our EV UHF antenna splitter for outdoor events with no issues.
recommending someone to change ends/plugs on anything power related is only asking for problems...
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recommending someone to change ends/plugs on anything power related is only asking for problems...
Sorry Jason. Josh has just informed me that he knows you are too stupid to change plugs or ends on anything power related, please disregard my earlier advice. Also I am going to have to ask you to please stay out of the electrical aisle at the hardware store or Home Depot.
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Sorry Jason. Josh has just informed me that he knows you are too stupid to change plugs or ends on anything power related, please disregard my earlier advice. Also I am going to have to ask you to please stay out of the electrical aisle at the hardware store or Home Depot.
Bazinga!!!
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Sorry Jason. Josh has just informed me that he knows you are too stupid to change plugs or ends on anything power related, please disregard my earlier advice. Also I am going to have to ask you to please stay out of the electrical aisle at the hardware store or Home Depot.
well i assume that you think that everyone does know what they are doing...i assume you know that he is competent in doing this? OBVIOUSLY you do....and it is quite possible that jason does know how to do. IDK...
power isn't something to be taken lightly...i personally have had some extreme close calls (including being electrocuted) from people doing things that "knew what they were doing" so before you give me ^@!$ for having someone elses interests in mind i suggest that if you are going be a complete dick to people you don't know that you get your head out of your ass if you can over your giant sized ego, and understand the perspectives and experiences of where people are coming from. just because you can buy a plug from HOME DEPOT and read a how to guide from google doesn't mean that you can or should wire a power cable.
oh..i will mention also that whilst this isn't something that in which i am 100% comfortable in doing personally...and if its something that i HAVE to do, i get other people that know and understand how to do this double and then triple check it with a tester. due to the nature of my own experiences i don't want the responsibility let alone the liability of having being the person responsible for electrocuting other someone...
sorry if what i said was a little harsh but understand that experiences don't make for a doosh responses...
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While I don't personally know how to do what Bob is suggesting, I do know a guy who is a professional electrician who should have no trouble wiring up something like this.
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Wall-wart removers redux.
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power isn't something to be taken lightly..
It is when we're talking about 12v DC under an amp. No one is suggesting he do any mains level wiring. Read it again.
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It is when we're talking about 12v DC under an amp. No one is suggesting he do any mains level wiring. Read it again.
can still damage equipment....
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That was the first idea, but the number of wall warts makes is difficult. They are rack mounted (all but two at least), but the racks they're mounted in are too small to use those big long rack power strips, and if we use a smaller, regular sized one we won't be able to plug all 8 units into one strip. So then we'll need multiple strips, which we're trying to get away from...
Did you run out of rack space? An 8 plug unit power distro usually takes a single rack space and accommodate 4 warts and use 4 wart removers like what Dick suggested for the other 4. What I did instead, I made my own 1 ft extension cords with parts from the hardware store.
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well i assume that you think that everyone does know what they are doing...i assume you know that he is competent in doing this? OBVIOUSLY you do....and it is quite possible that jason does know how to do. IDK...
power isn't something to be taken lightly...i personally have had some extreme close calls (including being electrocuted) from people doing things that "knew what they were doing" so before you give me ^@!$ for having someone elses interests in mind i suggest that if you are going be a complete dick to people you don't know that you get your head out of your ass if you can over your giant sized ego, and understand the perspectives and experiences of where people are coming from. just because you can buy a plug from HOME DEPOT and read a how to guide from google doesn't mean that you can or should wire a power cable.
oh..i will mention also that whilst this isn't something that in which i am 100% comfortable in doing personally...and if its something that i HAVE to do, i get other people that know and understand how to do this double and then triple check it with a tester. due to the nature of my own experiences i don't want the responsibility let alone the liability of having being the person responsible for electrocuting other someone...
sorry if what i said was a little harsh but understand that experiences don't make for a doosh responses...
Nice language, this response leads me to believe the problem may be exceptionally thin skin but even that can't explain life threatening electrocution by 12 volts.
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Did you run out of rack space? An 8 plug unit power distro usually takes a single rack space and accommodate 4 warts and use 4 wart removers like what Dick suggested for the other 4. What I did instead, I made my own 1 ft extension cords with parts from the hardware store.
The receivers aren't the only things in the rack, I wanted to be able to plug the other stuff in the rack in as well. We have enough rack space to have one or two rack-mount power units of some kind. I figured if we could power the mic receivers from a distro it'd look a lot cleaner and we wouldn't have a bunch of wall warts.
So if I think me and the other audio guys can rewire the receivers as Bob suggests successfully, I may try that.
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The receivers aren't the only things in the rack, I wanted to be able to plug the other stuff in the rack in as well. We have enough rack space to have one or two rack-mount power units of some kind. I figured if we could power the mic receivers from a distro it'd look a lot cleaner and we wouldn't have a bunch of wall warts.
So if I think me and the other audio guys can rewire the receivers as Bob suggests successfully, I may try that.
Just get the wart removers and you're done.
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A couple of Accell power squids will take care of it neatly
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Wart removers and power squids just look like they'll make the rack look really messy. I really want this to look nice and clean.
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Wart removers and power squids just look like they'll make the rack look really messy. I really want this to look nice and clean.
No. Squids, yes, wart-removers, no. The wart-removers mount flush and solid to the rack. The small wires from the warts to their units can be run through any of the various wiring harness products you want to use. Very neat and clean.
Even I can do that......
Edit:
http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/WiringDucts.php
There is also a plastic "coil"-type product which will suffice. I just can't think of what it's called or find a picture, but I've seen it used to corral multiple power cables in offices with computers, printers and the like. But once in there, it's kind of locked up. The wiring ducts will give you more flexibility for adding/removing wiring.
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No. Squids, yes, wart-removers, no. The wart-removers mount flush and solid to the rack. The small wires from the warts to their units can be run through any of the various wiring harness products you want to use. Very neat and clean.
Even I can do that......
Well, keep in mind this is the first rack I've ever done, I'm still pretty new to how it all works. We don't have any sort of wiring harness or anything at the moment. I don't even know what's out there for that sort of thing. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Wart removers and power squids just look like they'll make the rack look really messy. I really want this to look nice and clean.
If everything is rack mounted and plugged into the rack mount power distro, all the wires will be behind and yes, it will be messy but that's how it is. No one will see it.
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If everything is rack mounted and plugged into the rack mount power distro, all the wires will be behind and yes, it will be messy but that's how it is. No one will see it.
Messy affects more than just visuals. When I have to go into the back of the rack and move stuff around it's a pain if everything's a mess.
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Well, keep in mind this is the first rack I've ever done, I'm still pretty new to how it all works. We don't have any sort of wiring harness or anything at the moment. I don't even know what's out there for that sort of thing. Thanks for the suggestion.
You can actually make your own "custom" cable organizer from any tubular stock you have on hand. Pick something with some flex to it, mark the places where you want the individual wires to come out, drill a hole at every mark, then split the tube lengthwise along the line of holes. The split will allow you to spread the tube just wide enough to slip the wires inside. The hole will let you bring the wires out right where you want them to plug into the devices. You can hold the tube in place with nylon cable clamps, either the ones that completely surround the tube or the ones that have a "ratchet" type closure with the ability to remove the tube without removing the screws holding it in place.
Pull the slack back, coil it neatly and twist-tie it together, then tuck the coils away however you want.
Or you could just use one of the cable tray assemblies from the link I posted previously. A little imagination, a little elbow grease and a little time and you won't have to spend much $$$. It'll be as neat as you want to make it.
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I have a ewomnikit8 for. 8 ch of G2 if you are interested it will work with G1,2,&3 possibly with your AT UNITS AS WELL.
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Look up the Audio Technica ATW-DA49 wireless distribution amp. It handles four wireless, is full frequency range capable, and can power four receivers.
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You can go to a local electronics supply store and pick up a suitable 12 volt power supply for this application. Take the ends of the wall wart that plug into the receivers, cut them to the right length(s), and tie them all to the power supply outputs. Obviously you have to be careful of polarity, and also need to be sure to get a supply that has enough current to supply all of the receivers comfortably.
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2 amp 13.8 volt regulated DC supply from Radioshack. Cut the wall warts off the receiver and reuse the cable. Add a 1/2 amp inline fuse to each cable. Wire all the cables with correct polarity observed to the DC supply. Check cable with meter before plugging back in to receiver.
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why pay for a wall wart to cut the wire off???
go to parts express and order the plugs and some wire?
digi Key
mcm electronics.
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why pay for a wall wart to cut the wire off???
go to parts express and order the plugs and some wire?
digi Key
mcm electronics.
Molded plugs that are known to be the correct size and already owned.