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 on: Today at 01:08:59 am 
Started by Matt Greene - Last post by Mike Caldwell

While the primary use would be on a shelf on the wall, I'd like the option to take them on the road when performing outside of the space.

Setting speakers on a shelf would be a bad idea, no way to really aim the speakers as they most likely would need to be aimed as in tilted down to the seating area, you don't want to mount the shelf at angle! Strapping them through the handle and to the shelf also not a good idea.

With powered speakers in an install you need to think out power to the speakers and how to turn them on and off. The proper way would be to use a power sequencing system to power the entire system on and off in the proper sequence, remote power modules are used for things like power speakers.

 on: Today at 12:56:47 am 
Started by Steven Welwood - Last post by Steven Welwood
There are lots of independent people who can "tune" a system.

But here is the problem.

What happens if they get there, and the cabinets are not hung properly? ie the angles between the cabinets, the position of the array etc.

Electrical adjustment can only do so much, but if the install is not properly done, there could still be coverage issues.

Often people don't want to be responsible for others work.

You can end up with awkard situations such the "tuner" says the hang isn't correct, and the installer say the "tuner" doesn't know what he is doing.

And it could  either one or a combination of both.

 I have meet  quite a few "tuners" who can talk a good game, but don't really have a good measurement foundation.

I have also seen installations in which I say to myself "WHAT were they thinking?"

In my opinion, it is the responsibility of the person selling the job/installing the job to insure that it is covering properly and working properly.

Yup, I totally agree with you. Unfortunately I don't think we'll get what we're looking for by going back to the installer. First, it's been over a year since it was installed, and second, he'll probably come back in with his RTA, make a few tweaks, and call it good. Like I said, this decision was made before I was here. I'm just wondering who to call now to get it done properly as properly as possible.

As far as what can be done, there's nothing stopping us from changing the angle between the boxes. Turning the array would be more of a challenge, but not impossible.

I realize it's not a good situation to put someone into, and I know there's "only so much [you] can do with the rig as installed," as David said. I'm just looking for the person to get what's possible out of this rig.

There are lots of independent people who can "tune" a system.

What person *should* be qualified to do this?

 on: Today at 12:55:17 am 
Started by Dennis Wiggins - Last post by Mark Cadwallader
Replace with K&M cups?  Designed in metric, for metric, by folks who have only ever spoken metric....  I suspect (but do not know) that German-made K&M will likely be built to closer tolerences than those spec'ed for a mass-market product.

I have a set of K&M sub poles with the expanding mandrel tops. They hold very well. (As in I can vertically lift an inverted PRX 612 or 615 top, using just the sub pole as the lifting handle.)

 on: Today at 12:42:24 am 
Started by AllenDeneau - Last post by Steve Mason
1. Newport Oregon.

2. I am a total cliche'. Bartender 4 nights a week and part time cover band rock star part time. "sound guy" when there'should not a gig to play

3. Severe G.A.S. with my band. Before ya knew it I had enough gear to do a small "festival". Then my friend who runs the County Fair asked me if I wanted the sound gignore when his provider "outgrew" our small county fair. Invested the first years money into some more gear and now I am mostly a weekend warrior on the sound stuff.  Built my fair rig so I could break it down onto smaller sized rigs for corporate or small band stuff as well. Pretty bare bones and ground based, but people seem to like what I get out of what I have to work with. Debating whether to take it next level. Glad I found this site. Have learned a ton. Best PSW moment .... my first Dave Rat video link.

 on: Today at 12:26:56 am 
Started by Doug Fowler - Last post by Steve Mason
An 8 piece Celtic group. BUT I'm getting paid and free beer on St Paddy's day. All in all not a bad gig.

 on: Yesterday at 11:45:48 pm 
Started by John Fruits - Last post by Jeff Lelko
I noticed that too.  It's been an interesting past several months for the console world with ETC now carrying the Hog Series, Chauvet acquiring Chamsys, and now Elation buying M-PC. 

Given Elation's past performance with consoles I can't imagine that this is a terribly good thing for the product line, but time will tell.  At the same time I've questioned the direction of Martin ever since Harman bought them so maybe it'll be a wash.  Given that Elation also markets Capture, that does open the door for some interesting potential product merges. 

 on: Yesterday at 11:35:04 pm 
Started by Ivan Beaver - Last post by Dennis Wiggins
Yeah man - I'm anxious to hear those micro-dynamics (in a hockey rink)!


Gotta HAVE that 'Shoosh'!

I can't believe TAS is still around.  I was a subscriber throughout to 70s, only to read up on what they were hearing that I wasn't.  Nothings's changed.


 on: Yesterday at 11:33:15 pm 
Started by Dennis Wiggins - Last post by Dennis Wiggins
It's either too loose, or it won't go in at all!  No, this is not what you are thinking.  I have real problems with speaker poles/cups having "wobbly bits" (Bridget Jones) and others "Mama-Too Tight" (Archie Shepp).

Specifically, I am building a 'mountain' of ZXA1-Subs (four, so far - target: eight) and the cups are too tight.  The assembly is ~4" diameter and have 3 mounting bolts.

I want 35mm, and I want it now!



 on: Yesterday at 11:22:32 pm 
Started by Mike Sokol - Last post by Rob Spence
NEC 210.21(B)(3) States that a 20 amp circuit can have either 15 or 20 amp receptacles connected to it-30 amp circuits can have 30 amp receptacles-I suspect that any inspector would flag this.

Also, 210.21(B)(2) restricts the maximum connected load to a 20 amp receptacle to 16 amps.  I suppose since this actually connected to 2 receptacles, you could technically draw a full 20 amps from a 20 amp circuit.

I donít think code restricts 30a outlets to only 30a circuits.
You could protect a 50a outlet with a 15a breaker if you wanted.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 on: Yesterday at 11:20:15 pm 
Started by Ivan Beaver - Last post by Geert Friedhof
For absolute silence i would advice to use a 'bridge' plug. Just connect ground or neutral to the pole which measures 120V...

No more hum or other noises. Succes guaranteed.

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