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Sound Reinforcement - Forums for Live Sound Professionals - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Live Sound Forums => LAB Lounge => Topic started by: Debbie Dunkley on October 11, 2017, 05:18:16 PM
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Over the years I have only owned 3 soldering irons. One of those (I still have in drawer) was my first one- very old (like me- LOL), probably still works but is 240v from the UK.
The next one I got when I moved to the US and it was a cheapy that only lasted a few years. My current one was also inexpensive but has fared better and still works but is now showing signs of fluctuating heat randomly.
What would be a good brand to look for that isn't crazy expensive but reliable? This will be one of my Xmas prezzies.
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Over the years I have only owned 3 soldering irons. One of those (I still have in drawer) was my first one- very old (like me- LOL), probably still works but is 240v from the UK.
The next one I got when I moved to the US and it was a cheapy that only lasted a few years. My current one was also inexpensive but has fared better and still works but is now showing signs of fluctuating heat randomly.
What would be a good brand to look for that isn't crazy expensive but reliable? This will be one of my Xmas prezzies.
Hakko.
https://www.amazon.com/FX888D-Digital-Soldering-Station-Cutter/dp/B00WN3AD7C/ref=sr_1_10?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1507757175&sr=8-10&keywords=hakko+soldering+station&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
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My temperature-controlled Weller WES51 from eBay has lasted more than 15 years. I wish all my eBay purchases were this good!
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+1.....Weller WES51.
https://www.parts-express.com/weller-wes51-soldering-iron-station--372-145
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My Weller from 1969 still works fine.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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Over the years I have only owned 3 soldering irons. One of those (I still have in drawer) was my first one- very old (like me- LOL), probably still works but is 240v from the UK.
The next one I got when I moved to the US and it was a cheapy that only lasted a few years. My current one was also inexpensive but has fared better and still works but is now showing signs of fluctuating heat randomly.
What would be a good brand to look for that isn't crazy expensive but reliable? This will be one of my Xmas prezzies.
Oh what fun! New tools for xmas!
I have a Weller WTCPT (https://www.parts-express.com/weller-wtcpt-soldering-iron-station--372-140) that I have been using for years. It was a xmas present many, many years ago. The temperature control is managed by what tips you put in it. I love it and it works great with a nice selection of pointy and screwdriver tips, there is little you can't do.
For more portable situations, I also have a Weller WP-35 (https://www.parts-express.com/weller-wp35-professional-35-watt-soldering-iron--372-112) and an old Weller WP-100.
I thought I had a WP-60 around here somewhere too, but I can only find the WP-35 and WTCPT right now. The others are probably buried in boxes somewhere.
That newer Weller WES51 (https://www.parts-express.com/weller-wes51-soldering-iron-station--372-145) looks like pretty good kit, too. So it would definitely be worth consideration. I would probably consider that as a replacement if my WTCPT were to die on me today.
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You can't beat Weller.
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Certainly, the Hakko and Weller models are top notch and always highly recommended.
I ended up with the Aoyue 937 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I30QBW/). It's served well for at least a few years now. No sign of failing yet.
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Love my old Hakko...
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Over the years I have only owned 3 soldering irons. One of those (I still have in drawer) was my first one- very old (like me- LOL), probably still works but is 240v from the UK.
The next one I got when I moved to the US and it was a cheapy that only lasted a few years. My current one was also inexpensive but has fared better and still works but is now showing signs of fluctuating heat randomly.
What would be a good brand to look for that isn't crazy expensive but reliable? This will be one of my Xmas prezzies.
I carry one of these:https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-irons/goot/px-201/goot-px-201-temperature-controlled-soldering-iron/ (https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-irons/goot/px-201/goot-px-201-temperature-controlled-soldering-iron/) and one of these:https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-stations/by-manufacturer/xytronic/lf-399d/xytronic-lf-399d-mini-type-80-watt-soldering-station/ (https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-stations/by-manufacturer/xytronic/lf-399d/xytronic-lf-399d-mini-type-80-watt-soldering-station/) in my fly-in repair kit and have had good service from both. I typically use the Goot with a 1/4" tip for the real heavy duty work and the Xytronic for circuit board level work. I also owned one of these for years and think it's an excellent iron:https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-stations/by-manufacturer/edsyn/951sx/edsyn-951sx-loner-soldering-station/ (https://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-stations/by-manufacturer/edsyn/951sx/edsyn-951sx-loner-soldering-station/)
I also own some Wellers including a WP35 and WP60 that are in my "tool bag" kit. They're both good, but I've had several thermal runaway problems with the WP60 that the manufacturer was never able to explain well enough to give me the confidence to continue using it in my "A" kit.
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Yihua 937D+
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station-Solder-Rework-Nozzles/dp/B01MSUEOJ1
I took a chance on this no name Chinese import a couple years ago after reading it's a Hakko without the name. I've used Weller for years at work, but can't justify the price for a few jobs a month at home. Sure enough, this has been my workhorse for two years and I couldn't be happier. To be sure, it's not a top end Weller, but for this price, you can't beat it. Spend more on the Hakko name if you like, but this is the same thing and works great. Heats fast and accurately, maintains the temp within a degree or two and is powerful enough to keep the temp. even when soldering 10 Ga. copper wire. Make SURE you calibrate it correctly, or you will burn tips up. I've had to calibrate twice in two years - big deal. Other than that I've had no issues at all.
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Hakko.
https://www.amazon.com/FX888D-Digital-Soldering-Station-Cutter/dp/B00WN3AD7C/ref=sr_1_10?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1507757175&sr=8-10&keywords=hakko+soldering+station&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
If you're looking for a stand-alone iron rather than a station, take a look at the Hakko FX-600, which uses the same tips as the FX-888D mentioned above and is almost as powerful (and still temperature controlled). I've been very happy with mine.
-Russ
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Go for the Hakko. I've been a Weller fan most of my life, but the newer Wellers just aren't the same reliable animal as from the past. I now own the FX-888 and it will do anything I need except ground points to steel chassis, and I have a dedicated iron for that. Great features, heats fast, hold water in the well forever, tips clean nicely, and the price is more than reasonable. And they sell them at Home Depot. Who would have thunk.
LINKY! (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hakko-70-Watt-Digital-Soldering-Station-FX888D-29BY-P/204215981?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|DigitalDecor|google||_pkw__pmt__product_204215981&mid=s|dc_mtid_8903yuu57254_pcrid_50236715142_pkw__pmt__product_204215981_slid_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlLOa8oPq1gIVRZV-Ch0QTQFVEAQYAiABEgLMo_D_BwE)
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I have a lot of irons, but my favorite is a Weller WESD51 station. It has a digital display for the temperature readout that's very handy. It's nice to be able to tell for sure when it's completely warmed up, and it's nice to see when the temperature sags a little while you're working.
That said, I have several other variable temperature stations without a digital display, and they work fine too. I think you'll be happy with any decent iron/station that has variable temperature and that you can easily find different tips for.
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Hakko.
https://www.amazon.com/FX888D-Digital-Soldering-Station-Cutter/dp/B00WN3AD7C/ref=sr_1_10?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1507757175&sr=8-10&keywords=hakko+soldering+station&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
+1
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I have the discontinued fx-888 analog with the knob and I like it. What do you guys think of the newer digital one with presets? Some comments I read on line complain about the 2 button user interface. Good for factory work where they don't want the workers messing with the settings.
I also have an x-tronic workstation with hot air and iron. I LOVE it for heat shrink.
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I have the discontinued fx-888 analog with the knob and I like it. What do you guys think of the newer digital one with presets? Some comments I read on line complain about the 2 button user interface. Good for factory work where they don't want the workers messing with the settings.
I also have an x-tronic workstation with hot air and iron. I LOVE it for heat shrink.
I'd take the analog unit over the digital one. Unfortunately when I bought my own personal iron most recently the analog wasn't available. It's just real nice to grab a simple knob and crank it to the desired temp. I don't understand what (if anything) is supposed to be better about the digital.
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I can't believe I am the first to ask you what you are going to be doing with it.
Different irons for different applications. Are you going to be doing PC board work on simple single layer boards like crossovers that have giant lands? Is portability an issue? Do you need high heat for larger connectors?
Perhaps this is mostly for XLR's and other solder type connectors.
I too have many irons and workstations. For general purpose work I really like myy Hexacon Therm-o-trac. They still make them but the are $700 bucks and built the same way for 30 years. No digital display, just a status light, temp know and power switch. Occasionally deals can be found on eBay and they last forever so don't be scared of an old one.
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well ! er !
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I can't believe I am the first to ask you what you are going to be doing with it.
Different irons for different applications. Are you going to be doing PC board work on simple single layer boards like crossovers that have giant lands? Is portability an issue? Do you need high heat for larger connectors?
Perhaps this is mostly for XLR's and other solder type connectors.
I too have many irons and workstations. For general purpose work I really like myy Hexacon Therm-o-trac. They still make them but the are $700 bucks and built the same way for 30 years. No digital display, just a status light, temp know and power switch. Occasionally deals can be found on eBay and they last forever so don't be scared of an old one.
I have about 6 different irons all different sizes and wattages for different apps.
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I can't believe I am the first to ask you what you are going to be doing with it.
Different irons for different applications. Are you going to be doing PC board work on simple single layer boards like crossovers that have giant lands? Is portability an issue? Do you need high heat for larger connectors?
Perhaps this is mostly for XLR's and other solder type connectors.
I too have many irons and workstations. For general purpose work I really like myy Hexacon Therm-o-trac. They still make them but the are $700 bucks and built the same way for 30 years. No digital display, just a status light, temp know and power switch. Occasionally deals can be found on eBay and they last forever so don't be scared of an old one.
Nothing very complex Scott- yes, just XLRs and connectors really.
I have always repaired my cables myself. Years ago as a typically poor musician I made every one of my cables - couldn't afford to buy them already made.
Do you guys have a preference on solder wire? Is it worth the extra for the more expensive brands? I want something nice and free flowing.
Do you use flux or rely on the flux in the solder?
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Nothing very complex Scott- yes, just XLRs and connectors really.
I have always repaired my cables myself. Years ago as a typically poor musician I made every one of my cables - couldn't afford to buy them already made.
Do you guys have a preference on solder wire? Is it worth the extra for the more expensive brands? I want something nice and free flowing.
Do you use flux or rely on the flux in the solder?
Debbie, I would get the Hakko FX-888D station and lead-free rosin-core solder somewhere around .050" diameter. No external flux should be used, and make sure you NEVER use acid-based flux, such as that used for plumbing.
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Debbie, I would get the Hakko FX-888D station and lead-free rosin-core solder somewhere around .050" diameter. No external flux should be used, and make sure you NEVER use acid-based flux, such as that used for plumbing.
Thanks Tom. I have never use flux but it seems popular with folks doing the same kinds of jobs as me - just basic connections.
The Hakko seems popular here and is on my wish list. I'll add the solder you suggest and hopefully Santa logs in to Amazon......
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Thanks Tom. I have never use flux but it seems popular with folks doing the same kinds of jobs as me - just basic connections.
The Hakko seems popular here and is on my wish list. I'll add the solder you suggest and hopefully Santa logs in to Amazon......
External flux is needed when working on circuit boards and using hot air instead of an iron. There is no advantage to external flux for connectors and wire, and it's probably a bad thing - even rosin-core flux is a little bit corrosive, and if it's not entirely burned away, can leave a mess.
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External flux is needed when working on circuit boards and using hot air instead of an iron. There is no advantage to external flux for connectors and wire, and it's probably a bad thing - even rosin-core flux is a little bit corrosive, and if it's not entirely burned away, can leave a mess.
Got it.. thanks Tom.
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Another happy Hakko customer. Have had my 926 on my bench for at least 20 years. Also carry a Weller Portasol in my bag at all times for field work (butane).
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lead-free rosin-core solder
I am not a fan of lead-free. I much prefer good old 63-37 Tin/lead with some ventilation. Once your done just wash your hands and every things good.
I have Kester #66 / 245 on my bench, along with some other "no-clean" type products.
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I am not a fan of lead-free. I much prefer good old 63-37 Tin/lead with some ventilation. Once your done just wash your hands and every things good.
I have Kester #66 / 245 on my bench, along with some other "no-clean" type products.
Can of flux stripper always handy too.
+1 on the 63-37
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if you don't already have... add a set of 'helping hands' to that wish list
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Nothing very complex Scott- yes, just XLRs and connectors really.
I have always repaired my cables myself. Years ago as a typically poor musician I made every one of my cables - couldn't afford to buy them already made.
Do you guys have a preference on solder wire? Is it worth the extra for the more expensive brands? I want something nice and free flowing.
Do you use flux or rely on the flux in the solder?
That is the nice thing about the adjustable temp irons, whether you need to swap out tips to change the temp or just crank the knob to adjust the temp. You can use the appropriate setting for whatever job you are doing. Maximum temperature is a good way to melt connectors. Often you can solder at a considerably lower temperature and not risk damaging the connector.
Regarding the solder itself, I've always been a big fan of the Kester solder. Kester 44 was the standard that I used for a long, long time. Looking at the spool on my desk today, I don't see a model number but it is Kester with SN63/PB37, and of course it is rosin core with a 0.040 diameter. This is great general purpose for doing connectors and other minor tasks. More specialized work may require something smaller or larger depending.
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if you don't already have... add a set of 'helping hands' to that wish list
I already have one!... I also have an old (easily 25 years) mini vise with suction cup mount that I use all the time too. It would be nice if the helping hands had a suction cup base or a weighted base - I find it a bit unstable.
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I am not a fan of lead-free. I much prefer good old 63-37 Tin/lead with some ventilation. Once your done just wash your hands and every things good.
I have Kester #66 / 245 on my bench, along with some other "no-clean" type products.
What do you find the main difference is in the effectiveness and usability between the 2 as some prefer the lead free? My solder is so old that I can't read what it is and to be honest I have no idea whether it has lead in it or not- I probably should know that.
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I am not a fan of lead-free. I much prefer good old 63-37 Tin/lead with some ventilation.
That depends on what you're working on. If you work on anything made within the last 10 years, you will likely be working on lead-free solder, and mixing leaded and lead-free isn't a good thing (though the criticality of this depends on your standards and isn't probably a deal-breaker for making XLR cables).
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I'm another satisfied Hakko owner. I have a 936 on my bench and carry an FX-600 in my tool box. Solder is Kester 44, 63/37... don't recall the diameter. IMHO lead-free solders are not as forgiving of temperature variations and to my old eyes, every joint looks cold.
For occasional cable repairs the Hakko Dash (FX-650) might be enough.
As for your existing solder, Debbie, it's probably lead-bearing if it's so old you can't read the label. TJ's point about mixing solders is good advice, but unless you're doing PCB component-level repairs (and re-flowing is a likely technique) it probably won't matter. Get some lead-free solder to keep in your kit, though, in case you embark on a field repair of heroic proportions.
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What do you find the main difference is in the effectiveness and usability between the 2 as some prefer the lead free? My solder is so old that I can't read what it is and to be honest I have no idea whether it has lead in it or not- I probably should know that.
If your solder is more than 10 years old, it is almost certainly leaded, as the RoHS push was around 10 years ago, which drove the change to lead-free.
Leaded solder melts at a slightly lower temperature than lead-free. In practice this means you have a little less time to work on a joint after you remove your iron with lead-free, but if you are competent soldering with leaded solder, you will have no material issues with lead-free.
I don't think this is a major dogmatic issue; my main reason for suggesting lead-free is that restrictions on lead-bearing products will only increase over time, so you may as well make the jump now (or when your old solder roll runs out).
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Great info here guys - thank you. Yes, my solder wire is old and has to be leaded. But good advice to get some lead free in my kit.
I don't do field repairs as I don't get enough time on the shows I run - so I rely on keeping spares of everything. I take care of anything else back at home.
Hakko definitely has the votes so I'll keep the one suggested on my wish list.
I find these days that it is my eyesight that lets me down when I solder. I use the magnifier on the helping hands tool a lot more now. Still got a nice steady hand though.... age sucks!
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Debbie, I would get the Hakko FX-888D station and lead-free rosin-core solder somewhere around .050" diameter. No external flux should be used, and make sure you NEVER use acid-based flux, such as that used for plumbing.
FX888 is a fine iron. The nippers Amazon throws in are nice, too.
I keep several kinds of solder on hand depending what I'm working on. Solder is Kester 44 in 63/37 for repairs, Kester 48 SnAgCu for new work. I've also one of those cheapo solder racks to hold my rolls, and a PanaVise Junior to hold the iron when I'm soldering cable ends.
Tried the Cardas Audio solder, and haven't been particularly happy with the results it delivers. Doesn't flow well.
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FX888 is a fine iron. The nippers Amazon throws in are nice, too.
I keep several kinds of solder on hand depending what I'm working on. Solder is Kester 44 in 63/37 for repairs, Kester 48 SnAgCu for new work. I've also one of those cheapo solder racks to hold my rolls, and a PanaVise Junior to hold the iron when I'm soldering cable ends.
Tried the Cardas Audio solder, and haven't been particularly happy with the results it delivers. Doesn't flow well.
I had the package with the cutters on my wish list first but then I saw for $3 more the package including tip cleaner.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DUPRXCE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3846W7IHHN3J8&colid=Y5GTE86VLF72
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. . .
I find these days that it is my eyesight that lets me down when I solder. I use the magnifier on the helping hands tool a lot more now. Still got a nice steady hand though.... age sucks!
I use one of these. . .I' not proud of it. . .
https://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multi-Power-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1507832807&sr=8-8&keywords=Headband+Magnifier
I had the package with the cutters on my wish list first but then I saw for $3 more the package including tip cleaner.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DUPRXCE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3846W7IHHN3J8&colid=Y5GTE86VLF72
The tip cleaner is the same stuff that's already included in the stand that comes with the iron.
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I use one of these. . .I' not proud of it. . .
https://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multi-Power-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1507832807&sr=8-8&keywords=Headband+Magnifier
I could see me using one of those.
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The tip cleaner is the same stuff that's already included in the stand that comes with the iron.
Didn't realize that - couldn't tell from the picture.... well my last 2 comments give me my answer to whether or not I should get me a head worn magnifier - LOL
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Hi Debbie,
I am an EE manager and the lab (of course) has the very best equipment in soldering irons that money can buy.
At work, the guys won't let me near a real work area (I suspect they think I have forgotten how to do anything useful at this point in my career ;) ), but the problem I always have with real soldering workstations is that they are clunky to carry around. If you are only using them at a workstation, then they are great.
For me, at my own house I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G/ref=zg_bs_13837371_17?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V2A53JSHVPF4BWRKHY81
This is small enough that it fits in my small emergency equipment kit and still has everything I need to get the job done (at home and out on a gig).
This little sucker heats up in just a few seconds, and puts out enough power to solder big wires to a big metal resistor pot (on a guitar) without any problems at all. It has temperature control, and the tip stays at that temperature even under a pretty serious load (I have seen trials on the web to prove it too).
I also use a bronze wire tip cleaner (sponges are not nearly as good), and typically use rosin core solder to avoid the need for external rosin.
To remove solder from an existing part, I recommend solder wick, and a solder sucker. With this small set of soldering utensils, I can do most any job.
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Hi Debbie,
I am an EE manager and the lab (of course) has the very best equipment in soldering irons that money can buy.
At work, the guys won't let me near a real work area (I suspect they think I have forgotten how to do anything useful at this point in my career ;) ), but the problem I always have with real soldering workstations is that they are clunky to carry around. If you are only using them at a workstation, then they are great.
For me, at my own house I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G/ref=zg_bs_13837371_17?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V2A53JSHVPF4BWRKHY81
This is small enough that it fits in my small emergency equipment kit and still has everything I need to get the job done (at home and out on a gig).
This little sucker heats up in just a few seconds, and puts out enough power to solder big wires to a big metal resistor pot (on a guitar) without any problems at all. It has temperature control, and the tip stays at that temperature even under a pretty serious load (I have seen trials on the web to prove it too).
I also use a bronze wire tip cleaner (sponges are not nearly as good), and typically use rosin core solder to avoid the need for external rosin.
To remove solder from an existing part, I recommend solder wick, and a solder sucker. With this small set of soldering utensils, I can do most any job.
Thanks Scott - I did see this version of the Hakko earlier when I was checking them out on Amazon. I have a separate generic holder so it would work for me.
I agree that the workstations can be a bit clunky unless left in place.
I wish the soldering iron wand could be plugged into the station to make it a bit easier to move around. Maybe there is a more expensive iron that can be but I don't want to go much over $100- or should I say I don't want someone else to have to pay over $100 on a gift for me. I do also have a sucker which I have found invaluable.
I am amazed at how many members use a Hakko - It was always Weller years ago and I believe my old British one is a Weller.
One day I'll plug in that sucker ( into my huge heavy step up transformer that I brought with me 24 years ago) and see if it still works.....
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I do also have a sucker which I have found invaluable.
You shouldn't talk about your husband like that!
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You shouldn't talk about your husband like that!
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As long as we're all here, has anyone used the battery powered Hakko iron?
I am dubious about heat output but might do in a pinch.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX-901-Cordless-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00FZPUA28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507862281&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+battery+powered+soldering+iron
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You do realize I was talking about the P.T Barnum type sucker not any other connotation. I realized after I saw your reaction that could be taken more ways than one.
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You do realize I was talking about the P.T Barnum type sucker not any other connotation. I realized after I saw your reaction that could be taken more ways than one.
I don't know what you mean Scott........ ;)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hu0Bm_HfX-s
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I wish the soldering iron wand could be plugged into the station to make it a bit easier to move around. Maybe there is a more expensive iron that can be but I don't want to go much over $100- or should I say I don't want someone else to have to pay over $100 on a gift for me. I do also have a sucker which I have found invaluable.
My Weller WTCPT iron disconnects from the station.
I believe the WES51 does also, but better check with an owner.
Chris.
Oh, I use a big loupe magnifier with an 8" fluorescent ring-lite.
These old eyes and hands aren't anything like in the "good old days" ;)
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Hakko owner here myself. Works great, easy to setup and use..
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Amid all the Hakkomania, I'd like to put in a word for the Metcal. I have some MX500s (but there are later models). The tip selection means you can do anything from TSSOP ICs to plumbing repairs.
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Amid all the Hakkomania, I'd like to put in a word for the Metcal. I have some MX500s (but there are later models). The tip selection means you can do anything from TSSOP ICs to plumbing repairs.
+1000
I've been in electronics manufacturing for more than 35 years. Everything from weapons spec military gear to consumer electronics. Have been an engineering manager in multiple contract manufacturers, been in the tech centers of others, and currently work on the OEM side. It's expired now but I've held a Mil-Std-2000 soldering certification. As well as having contributed to the spec itself.
What's on my bench at home is a Metcal 500 series. I did a bunch of beta testing for them and this was comp'd. But I would have spent my own money to get one anyway. As the saying goes: There's nothing more expensive than a cheap tool. I've done everything with Metcals from Fender tube amps to adding jumper wires to 4K image sensors.
As for leaded vs. lead free. It's just about impossible to find products with leaded solder these days. The primary difference is that leaded solder is more ductile. It gives a bit under strain, but also suffers from fatigue failure more easily. SAC305 is stronger but can be fractured by shock more easily. It's a trade off. Then you have the metallurgy of circuit board and component finishes, my day job life for the last 35 years.
Rosin fluxes are just about extinct. All the efforts in chemistry are in "no-clean" fluxes. Some products are made with organic acid based fluxes and water washed where they have to be conformal coated or high power RF where leakage is an issue. Rosin fluxes need solvent cleaning and industry can't effectively deal with solvents and safety/environmental regulations. So about the only place you see rosin is with hobbyists stuck in the last century.
My personal favorite hand solder flux is Alpha NR205. I also have some samples of flux from Indium and Senju that work well (part of being in industry is rep's constantly asking me to try stuff). All of them are no clean.
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+1000
I've been in electronics manufacturing for more than 35 years. Everything from weapons spec military gear to consumer electronics. Have been an engineering manager in multiple contract manufacturers, been in the tech centers of others, and currently work on the OEM side. It's expired now but I've held a Mil-Std-2000 soldering certification. As well as having contributed to the spec itself.
What's on my bench at home is a Metcal 500 series. I did a bunch of beta testing for them and this was comp'd. But I would have spent my own money to get one anyway. As the saying goes: There's nothing more expensive than a cheap tool. I've done everything with Metcals from Fender tube amps to adding jumper wires to 4K image sensors.
As for leaded vs. lead free. It's just about impossible to find products with leaded solder these days. The primary difference is that leaded solder is more ductile. It gives a bit under strain, but also suffers from fatigue failure more easily. SAC305 is stronger but can be fractured by shock more easily. It's a trade off. Then you have the metallurgy of circuit board and component finishes, my day job life for the last 35 years.
Rosin fluxes are just about extinct. All the efforts in chemistry are in "no-clean" fluxes. Some products are made with organic acid based fluxes and water washed where they have to be conformal coated or high power RF where leakage is an issue. Rosin fluxes need solvent cleaning and industry can't effectively deal with solvents and safety/environmental regulations. So about the only place you see rosin is with hobbyists stuck in the last century.
My personal favorite hand solder flux is Alpha NR205. I also have some samples of flux from Indium and Senju that work well (part of being in industry is rep's constantly asking me to try stuff). All of them are no clean.
Thank God I still have 1/2 a case of 20 year old flux stripper - Firmly stuck in the last century with my Hexacon Therm-O-Trac and Pace rework station (from the 80's)
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Thank God I still have 1/2 a case of 20 year old flux stripper - Firmly stuck in the last century with my Hexacon Therm-O-Trac and Pace rework station (from the 80's)
Nothing wrong with the Pace stuff. But I could never take the Johnson's. Always seemed like hucksters whenever I met them or saw them presenting "technical papers" (very thinly disguised advertisements) at workshops.
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Thank God I still have 1/2 a case of 20 year old flux stripper - Firmly stuck in the last century with my Hexacon Therm-O-Trac and Pace rework station (from the 80's)
OK, trade secret. Buy some industrial strength toilet cleaner. Works better and smells better. Also good for silver solder.
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As a Metcal owner, I'd (of course) argue there is only one iron to have at home. It was a big investment a number of years ago, but a "no regrets" investment. So yeah, crazy expensive, for a soldiering iron. I bought once, and cried, just once.
I have several that live in toolbags, but they are disposables, and I have no attachment to them!
Most of the time, for most jobs, soldering irons are like mixers; if you cant do it on a mixwiz, the problem isn't the hardware.
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Weller WTCPT
youll find them all day long on ebay used for $50 only downside is you need to swap tips to change temp but if your just giving a touch of solder here and there on patch cords or inside a guitar its a very temp stable and reliable unit. I've soldered on lots of 8ga battery lugs and stuff as fine as 30ga with my antique one.