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 1 
 on: Today at 08:16:30 pm 
Started by Justice C. Bigler - Last post by Art Welter
I just heard some story about McFarland trying to get one of his guys to perform sexual favors to the Bahamian Customs agents in order to get their trucks full of water out of customs holding.   :o
That was in the Netflix doc. He was ready to "take one for the team", but the agent released the water with the promise that they would be among the first to get the import duty paid.

All the rock & roll lies were used in the making of the Fyre farce ;^)

 2 
 on: Today at 08:09:34 pm 
Started by Tom Bourke - Last post by Andrew Broughton
Not sure I'd recommend an LED driver - those are designed to be constant current, and can be a bit variable in actual voltage depending on the load.
Not sure if that one is that way, but you get the idea of what I'm suggesting.
Basically, a "Mountable" power supply of some sort is what I'm getting at. There's millions of them out there, doesn't have to be this one. Just the first one I saw on the 'net.

 3 
 on: Today at 07:56:04 pm 
Started by Justice C. Bigler - Last post by Justice C. Bigler
I just heard some story about McFarland trying to get one of his guys to perform sexual favors to the Bahamian Customs agents in order to get their trucks full of water out of customs holding.   :o

 4 
 on: Today at 07:53:36 pm 
Started by Dan Courtney - Last post by Mike Caldwell
Your detailed response is appreciated, Kevin.

If one was to replace these 20 year old Fender 12 passive speakers, what should one consider? Would active speakers be recommended? Brand/model?

Your caution, re mounting the speakers safely, is well taken.

Acoustic treatment is something we should look into.

Those beams are begging to have speakers mounted on them in one way or another provided they have real structure in them to mount to. Mounting somewhere in the area of beams would actually have them pointing at the people.

Your room is not that deep but for the width and what looks like up close to the front seating you may also need something to fill the outer front corners depending on the speaker and positioning.

 As for the speakers and total project what is your budget?

 5 
 on: Today at 07:49:35 pm 
Started by Justice C. Bigler - Last post by Art Welter
I wonder if Carl Icahn is investing in iConn?
Looks like Carl Icahn has had plenty of his own con games going on without investing in Ja Rule!

On the Iconn (short for "Ice Connect"  ::) ) website it says:

"We are very excited to announce our recent partnership with S.K.A.M. Artists Management!"

I'd have thought Ja Rule had spent enough time in jail already...


 6 
 on: Today at 07:31:55 pm 
Started by Tom Bourke - Last post by Justice C. Bigler
Just an FYI that we just discovered (the hard way, they actually caused problems on an install).  Shure has an additional list of disqualified switches beyond the list at Audinate's site.

Directly from the Shure site;
"All ProSafe unmanaged switches, including but not limited to:
FS105, 108, 108P, 116, and 116P
JFS516, 524
GS105, 108, 110, 116, MX, E and PE models
JGS516, 524, E and PE models
GSS108, 116, E and EPP models
GS and FS305, 308, 316, 324, 605NA, 750E"

Lee


Thanks for that, I'll have to look up what all they list.


But, the GS 108T is a managed switch, and it's specifically not included with that list. The NetGear line is somewhat confusing, as their Pro Safe switches are broken down into non comparable differentiations. The GS 108T is a managed switch which allows you to turn off EEE or Green ethernet as they call it. The GS108Ev3 is a managed switch for which you can not disable the EEE. (found that out the hard way too). And they look nearly identical, and are in the same price range.

 7 
 on: Today at 07:29:11 pm 
Started by Dan Courtney - Last post by Dan Courtney
Your detailed response is appreciated, Kevin.

If one was to replace these 20 year old Fender 12 passive speakers, what should one consider? Would active speakers be recommended? Brand/model?

Your caution, re mounting the speakers safely, is well taken.

Acoustic treatment is something we should look into.

 8 
 on: Today at 07:21:18 pm 
Started by jamie ashton - Last post by Jeremy Young
Looks like an improvement in the phase to me. 

 9 
 on: Today at 07:00:01 pm 
Started by Spenser Hamilton - Last post by Don Davis
Hey guys,
 I have been busy in the woodshop, taking a crack at the Smithers Wedge, loaded with B&C 12FCX76.

 I have two questions:
  • Does anybody have any experience comparing the B&C crossovers versus biamping the cab.
  • Looking at LG IPD series for power. Would an IPD1200 be sufficient, or should I spring for the 2400? (My instinct says to bone up for the 2400)

Thanks Guys!

Pictures:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoDBcT5XoTZzxmzIgf53U1Vd7C69
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoDBcT5XoTZzxm1jt43rXdcDbE-q

Hi Spenser,
A five years ago I built 4 coax wedges using B&C 12FHX76s. I have them set up to run either biamp or passive using the B&C crossovers. I find the passive works very well. I prefer biamp but coming up with the right DSP settings is tricky.
I've had a lot of artists comment on how good they sound.

 10 
 on: Today at 06:56:40 pm 
Started by Chris Edwards - Last post by Dave Pluke
Can anyone recommend the correct sizing and shrinkage ratio?

I don't do a lot of that, but have used Raychem WSCM 24/6 8-2 (4 to 1) tubing for the backs of chassis mount Powercon connectors.  It's rated for submersible use, which I hope never happens to my racks!

Home Depot sells them in 4" lengths if you want to try it.  This is not the brand I've seen in the stores, but is what they have on their website:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-8-2-AWG-Heavy-Wall-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Black-HWT-0025/205881703

Have to assume there's a more economical source if you need larger quantities.

Dave
 

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