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[Dennis Wiggins]

Welcome back to live sound!  I'm an old codger, too.

The difference between 4 and 8 ohm cabinets, for me, comes down to this.  If the cabinet has a single driver to  cover any frequency and has a passive crossover, buy the 8 ohm version.  Examples: any 2-way top with one tweeter and 1 woofer with a built-in passive crossover, or any single driver sub.

Any cabinet with two drivers covering the same frequency will be 4 ohm.  Examples: dual 12" or 15" + tweeter top, or dual 15" or 18" sub.

When you get into the dual driver cabinets, provide you buy "good" ones, you have crossed over into a highly capable system.  Examples: JBL SRX722 over SRX728, or EV QRx212 tops over QRx218 subs .

-Dennis

[Dennis Wiggins]

....borrowing a snip from Paul
<SNIP> I think we will need something over spl 100dB. As you mention 120 would cause damage but it will save us from having to turn the amp right up and hopefully the sound level will be hovering around the 100 dB level.

Go to Radio Shack and buy an SPL meter.  You will amazed at how good 90-95 dB can be in the listening area.  100-105, in bursts is OK, but can become painful after a while.  120 dB in the listening area?  Never.

-Dennis

<edit>

To clarify the above, the system still needs to capable of 125-130dB to clearly reproduce the peaks without distortion.

-DW

[Ken McDonald]

Thank you Duane and Dennis, much appreciated indeed. As I mentioned the distortion question is a bit confusing  but hopefully we know what to look for now.
Thanks again everyone.

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