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[josh allman]

Hi All,

We currently have a Panny PT-DZ870 and the ET-DLE030 ultra short throw lens (with road case). Our Chinese 250" screen has seen better days and its time to replace.

The PJ image is decent when front projecting, but not what I would have expected at 8500 lumens. I imagine its the screen size and UST lens hurting us (screen is essentially 18x10ft viewable).

The idea situation would be to rear project, but when we tried this with the new PJ setup, it was marginally better than the 3500 lumen PJ we had before.

I don't have enough experience with projection to know how much of a difference I can make up via screen brand/materials. I know rear pj tends to hot spot, and the extreme angle of the 030 lens probably isn't doing me any favors. But I have maybe 10-12ft of space behind the screen to work with, and according to projectorcentral I would need 16ft to use the next up lens.

The only replacement I've looked at is the DaLite fast fold screens. The screen is set up and packed away every week.

There is about 46ft to the first seat from the screen. Viewing angle isn't that wide esp considering how far back on stage the screen stays. Do I have some options with screen materials to improve rear performance?

I'm not familiar with fL to know how great a difference 37 fL vs 45fL would look, or if a screen with positive gain is a good idea in a room with other lights. Hoping for some help/enlightenment lol.

And of course, if you happen to sell a solution, I'm interested.

As far as the screen size, I might be able to get away with a ft smaller screen if it looked better or made rear projection palatable.

And if anyone has a used LED wall/curtain, I can sacrifice some PQ for contrast! Perhaps with my seating distance (46ft-96ft away from screen) I can get away with a higher mil screen people are wanting to get rid of?

[Luke Geis]

While I am not sure about rear projection screens with reflectivity options, they do have different material options, but I believe they are mostly for viewing angle and image quality considerations. Most rear projections screens of the Da-Lite/Draper fast fold variety have a pretty narrow viewing angle. Or I should say that as you start to get off axis of the projection, you begin to see the artifacts. This is usually seen as a bright spot in the middle of the screen and a color shift or rainbowing. I think this is exacerbated by the typical use of short throw lenses. The short throw means a lot of light is expanding at an obtuse angle in relation to the screen. As you begin to go off axis, you are very quickly seeing the hot spot and the color shifts. Longer throw lenses can reduce this, but you need more space. This is why positive gain front projection screens are helpful. They only reflect light that is on axis to the screen ( like a projector ), but this reduces viewing angle and causes color shift as you get off axis.

I think in your case, front projection would make the most sense and finding a slightly longer throw lens may help make a positive gain screen work better for you. I am not too sure on the efficacy of UST lenses with positive gain screens. The rather short throw means obtuse angles of incident for light to hit a reflective screen with directional properties. Good luck in finding what you need though. There are some calculators out there that will help though.

[josh allman]

Yeah, I’ve played around with all the Panasonic lens options on pj central.

The problem with front project is that it’s pushing our drums too far forward into the shot.

It seems if I could find a 6-8 mm led curtain or flexible display, that would be ideal.


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[Luke Geis]

The curtains are nice, but not really as portable as they may seem. It mostly comes down to the drivers. There is typically a driver for each curtain panel and it has to be mounted to something rigid like truss or a pipe. They are also not very robust in terms of regular set up and strike. Most that I know of snap together and the snaps break as you can imagine. An LED wall of that size would be relatively easy to set up and break down, but at a rough cost of $1k per Sq. Ft. it gets real pricey real quick.

I would will a bet there is a fabric for rear projection that handles short throw and light opacity better.

[josh allman]

Well, I’ve a friend that just got a 3.9mm for $900 a sq meter. Approx 10x18ft would be 18 panels, $16200, that’s doable, considering I’d spend 4-5k on a new screen setup, and can prob get 8-10k for my PJ, road case, and lens (that 030 is $5200 new!)





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[Jordan Wolf]

Well, I’ve a friend that just got a 3.9mm for $900 a sq meter...

Setting up LED walls and displaying something on them are two very different things.

I really recommend renting a full system with a tech to understand everything that goes into it BEFORE you buy.


Just a few questions I’d consider:

How much does the wall weigh and how will you [safely] support it (ground stack or flown)?

What type of power does it take?

How many cases does it travel in?

Who will set it up/tear it down?

[Dave Garoutte]

Well, I’ve a friend that just got a 3.9mm for $900 a sq meter. Approx 10x18ft would be 18 panels, $16200, that’s doable, considering I’d spend 4-5k on a new screen setup, and can prob get 8-10k for my PJ, road case, and lens (that 030 is $5200 new!)
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[ProSoundWeb Community]