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Martin Roboscan 518 - no DMX controle after TLC

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Ben Robertson:
i recently purchased 30 x roboscan 518, i have systematically been opening the units cleaning the optic train and re assembling, one unit which tested all options perfect prior to disassembly (pan/tilt/EFX/colour/gobo/dimmer shutters.

now no longer responds to dmx control

all stepper motors run through start process / test

i have reopend and confirmed all leads are correctly connected

i have check the internal fused visually

any suggestions or advice appreciated

John Fruits:
When you checked that the cables were properly seated did you also check on the DMX jumper, could it have gotten loose?  Also dip switches get funky with age, try exercising them all (you might write down the proper settings first) in case they have oxidation problems.  Good luck.

Jeff Lelko:

--- Quote from: John Fruits on April 24, 2018, 10:16:28 AM ---Also dip switches get funky with age, try exercising them all (you might write down the proper settings first) in case they have oxidation problems.

--- End quote ---

Along these lines, make sure you have them set back to the proper mode.  It's been over 10 years since I've touched a Roboscan, but I seem to recall them having a "Martin Mode" in addition to a "DMX Mode".  I also believe you need to use a phase reverser on these.  Did you leave it out by mistake when hooking things up?  Hope this helps!

Nathan Riddle:
The DMX control switches the polarity of pins 2/3. Are you using crossover cables?

Ben Robertson:
Thanks for the prompt reply.

i did cross the swapped pin issue at the time of purchase .. really odd behaviour from Martin MPC software resolved by use of correct cable, prior to this the oldest martin fixtures i had used were MX4 and MX10's, which didnt need and cross over cable

i have toggled all the DMX switches up and down and returned to me test profile

i will check the internal jumper pins as its possible they were disturbed when refitting the cables  to the main board (possibly changing the mode)

how easy / hard is it to kill the board from static charge?

i made sure i was earthed in the initial disassembly, i figure these need to be reasonably robust, and the fact that self test / gobo alignment carries out indicate board should be good

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