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[Dennis Wiggins]

It's either too loose, or it won't go in at all!  No, this is not what you are thinking.  I have real problems with speaker poles/cups having "wobbly bits" (Bridget Jones) and others "Mama-Too Tight" (Archie Shepp).

Specifically, I am building a 'mountain' of ZXA1-Subs (four, so far - target: eight) and the cups are too tight.  The assembly is ~4" diameter and have 3 mounting bolts.

I want 35mm, and I want it now!

Whuh-do-I-do?

-Dennis

[Mark Cadwallader]

Replace with K&M cups?  Designed in metric, for metric, by folks who have only ever spoken metric....  I suspect (but do not know) that German-made K&M will likely be built to closer tolerences than those spec'ed for a mass-market product.

I have a set of K&M sub poles with the expanding mandrel tops. They hold very well. (As in I can vertically lift an inverted PRX 612 or 615 top, using just the sub pole as the lifting handle.)

[Scott Holtzman]

I don't think you will get the increase you are expecting going from 4 to 8.

You are better off selling the four and getting something more performant. 

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Nimrod Webber]

The 35mm (1.375") is the nominal or reference size, meaning it is called by these numbers but the actual diameter of the mating parts is different.
The pole's OD is generally actually 35mm (or very close) but standard top hat ID is usually between 35.5 and 36mm, although tagged as 35mm.
This gives the adequate clearance for easy sliding one on top of the other and rotating.

      

[Geert Friedhof]

I would use the 20mm threaded sub inserts. Much more stable and straight.

[Scott Helmke]

I would use the 20mm threaded sub inserts. Much more stable and straight.

+1

[Dennis Wiggins]

The 35mm (1.375") is the nominal or reference size, meaning it is called by these numbers but the actual diameter of the mating parts is different.
The pole's OD is generally actually 35mm (or very close) but standard top hat ID is usually between 35.5 and 36mm, although tagged as 35mm.
This gives the adequate clearance for easy sliding one on top of the other and rotating.

      

I just took my "too tight" tubes to the wire brush and removed .01" of painted coating.  That reduced the OD from 1.40" (35.56mm) to 1.38" (35.02mm).  They fit into the ZXA1-Sub cup perfectly, now.

Gotta love the digital caliper.

The "loosies"... well, electrical tape for now.

-Dennis

[Dennis Wiggins]

I don't think you will get the increase you are expecting going from 4 to 8.

You are better off selling the four and getting something more performant. 

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

The big 70 is approaching, and I've decided that nothing I move will be above 50 lb.  I will probably not grow beyond the 4 I have, but who knows? I kept 1 dual-18", just in case.

-Dennis

[Tim McCulloch]

The big 70 is approaching, and I've decided that nothing I move will be above 50 lb.  I will probably not grow beyond the 4 I have, but who knows? I kept 1 dual-18", just in case.

-Dennis

I'm almost a decade behind you and find my tolerance for toting barges and lifting bales rapidly diminishing.  Besides, that's what strong, dumb, young backs are for...

I work with a young stage hand, really big (6'6", 340 lbs).  He can lift/grab/move some impressively large & heavy objects.  We try to remind him that just because he *can* do that by himself is not an indication that he *should*.

I must say that certain aspects of video are becoming increasingly attractive... 

[Dave Garoutte]

35mm is only .0029" (less than 3 thousanths of an inch) bigger than 1 3/8".
The tolerances of the poles and sockets are more than that.
I've made poles that fit perfectly into one sub socket and too tight in the other;  same brand, same model.  Short of adjustable ends, threads or matched sets, you're stuck with wiggly on occasion.

[Scott Helmke]

I'm almost a decade behind you and find my tolerance for toting barges and lifting bales rapidly diminishing.  Besides, that's what strong, dumb, young backs are for...

I work with a young stage hand, really big (6'6", 340 lbs).  He can lift/grab/move some impressively large & heavy objects.  We try to remind him that just because he *can* do that by himself is not an indication that he *should*.

I must say that certain aspects of video are becoming increasingly attractive... 

Wireless coordination I find interesting in its own right, but I must say it's a pretty low-lift gig if you can get it.

[Kemper Watson]

+1

+2

[Jonathan Johnson]

Sounds like there'd be a market for a pole socket with a locking cam. You'd see something like an allen head screw on the bottom, crank an allen wrench in it and it's set snug and grips the pole securely. No wobble, no spinning speakers. Can't be THAT hard to design and build.

If you patent it and make your million, remember me. 

[Dennis Wiggins]

Sounds like there'd be a market for a pole socket with a locking cam. You'd see something like an allen head screw on the bottom, crank an allen wrench in it and it's set snug and grips the pole securely. No wobble, no spinning speakers. Can't be THAT hard to design and build.

If you patent it and make your million, remember me. 

I use these:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UCIb8GGymg

The speaker end has what you are describing. 

I suppose I could just turn it over!

-Dennis

[Jonathan Johnson]

I use these:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UCIb8GGymg

The speaker end has what you are describing. 

I suppose I could just turn it over!

-Dennis

This evening I was thinking that this would be a better solution -- works with any speaker and you don't need to modify the speaker.

[Frank Koenig]

Sounds like there'd be a market for a pole socket with a locking cam. You'd see something like an allen head screw on the bottom, crank an allen wrench in it and it's set snug and grips the pole securely. No wobble, no spinning speakers. Can't be THAT hard to design and build.

If you patent it and make your million, remember me. 

I have found clamping shaft collars to be useful components for creating speaker (and mic) pole fittings. They're not directly going to solve the too-small-pole-for-the-cup problem but are great for joining tubes with an ID/OD fit or holding shims in place. They come in many sizes.
 
https://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=1c2ft82

I put a longitudinal slit in the outer tube and align the gap in the shaft collar with that slit.

Once I had to modify the ID of the collar to get a good fit, and realize not everyone has the facilities to do this. If you have access to a lathe, clamp a shim in the collar's gap before boring. Otherwise, I suppose you could go to the next larger size collar and use a shim on the ID -- those empty beer cans are good for something.

--Frank

[Debbie Dunkley]

I make myself shims from used gallon and half gallon size plastic bottles. The bottles have a natural slight bend in them. I cut them into pieces about an inch by 3 inches and I can get a lot from one bottle.

When I get looseness sometimes mounting my speakers on stands or sub poles, I slide one or 2 pieces of plastic into the gap - at the back so they cannot be seen. They work great. If they go missing at shows, which they invariably do, I just make more.
Free, quick  and they work without adding weight or height.

[ProSoundWeb Community]