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[Dennis Wiggins]

It's either too loose, or it won't go in at all!  No, this is not what you are thinking.  I have real problems with speaker poles/cups having "wobbly bits" (Bridget Jones) and others "Mama-Too Tight" (Archie Shepp).

Specifically, I am building a 'mountain' of ZXA1-Subs (four, so far - target: eight) and the cups are too tight.  The assembly is ~4" diameter and have 3 mounting bolts.

I want 35mm, and I want it now!

Whuh-do-I-do?

-Dennis

[Mark Cadwallader]

Replace with K&M cups?  Designed in metric, for metric, by folks who have only ever spoken metric....  I suspect (but do not know) that German-made K&M will likely be built to closer tolerences than those spec'ed for a mass-market product.

I have a set of K&M sub poles with the expanding mandrel tops. They hold very well. (As in I can vertically lift an inverted PRX 612 or 615 top, using just the sub pole as the lifting handle.)

[Scott Holtzman]

I don't think you will get the increase you are expecting going from 4 to 8.

You are better off selling the four and getting something more performant. 

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Nimrod Webber]

The 35mm (1.375") is the nominal or reference size, meaning it is called by these numbers but the actual diameter of the mating parts is different.
The pole's OD is generally actually 35mm (or very close) but standard top hat ID is usually between 35.5 and 36mm, although tagged as 35mm.
This gives the adequate clearance for easy sliding one on top of the other and rotating.

      

[Geert Friedhof]

I would use the 20mm threaded sub inserts. Much more stable and straight.

[Scott Helmke]

I would use the 20mm threaded sub inserts. Much more stable and straight.

+1

[Dennis Wiggins]

The 35mm (1.375") is the nominal or reference size, meaning it is called by these numbers but the actual diameter of the mating parts is different.
The pole's OD is generally actually 35mm (or very close) but standard top hat ID is usually between 35.5 and 36mm, although tagged as 35mm.
This gives the adequate clearance for easy sliding one on top of the other and rotating.

      

I just took my "too tight" tubes to the wire brush and removed .01" of painted coating.  That reduced the OD from 1.40" (35.56mm) to 1.38" (35.02mm).  They fit into the ZXA1-Sub cup perfectly, now.

Gotta love the digital caliper.

The "loosies"... well, electrical tape for now.

-Dennis

[Dennis Wiggins]

I don't think you will get the increase you are expecting going from 4 to 8.

You are better off selling the four and getting something more performant. 

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

The big 70 is approaching, and I've decided that nothing I move will be above 50 lb.  I will probably not grow beyond the 4 I have, but who knows? I kept 1 dual-18", just in case.

-Dennis

[Tim McCulloch]

The big 70 is approaching, and I've decided that nothing I move will be above 50 lb.  I will probably not grow beyond the 4 I have, but who knows? I kept 1 dual-18", just in case.

-Dennis

I'm almost a decade behind you and find my tolerance for toting barges and lifting bales rapidly diminishing.  Besides, that's what strong, dumb, young backs are for...

I work with a young stage hand, really big (6'6", 340 lbs).  He can lift/grab/move some impressively large & heavy objects.  We try to remind him that just because he *can* do that by himself is not an indication that he *should*.

I must say that certain aspects of video are becoming increasingly attractive... 

[Dave Garoutte]

35mm is only .0029" (less than 3 thousanths of an inch) bigger than 1 3/8".
The tolerances of the poles and sockets are more than that.
I've made poles that fit perfectly into one sub socket and too tight in the other;  same brand, same model.  Short of adjustable ends, threads or matched sets, you're stuck with wiggly on occasion.

[ProSoundWeb Community]