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[Keith Broughton]

What might work/fit is this:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/compact-power-connectors/0449275/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/compact-power-connectors/0449269/

or

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/compact-power-connectors/0488393/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/compact-power-connectors/0489510/

These are rated @ 3A/250V so fine for your application. The sockets are solder tagged and the 1st plug is screw termination and the second solder tagged.

Note that there are variants of the second connector that are NOT suitable for mains as the connector shell can be easily unscrewed (although it was previously used for mains (the SYNTHI AKS was a user) but now for inaccessible (i.e. internal to a device) use only). Weller TCP magnastat irons use the same connector.  But these are not right angle so no real problem.

NICE!
There is probably something similar in the US.

[Andrew Broughton]

Understood that it's very much a 'proceed at your own risk' situation, and there is potential for disaster...but this is a very isolated item and I am ridiculously anal about my gear and nobody else ever touching it.

That being said - I welcome some better options if anyone knows of any.


It needs to be right angle because the panel mount is on the side of a pedal board.
I have been gigging with regular style connectors, and based on the number of drunk girls dancing on stage, my cable ends are getting stepped on (and bent).
I need to create a tighter footprint where stuff can't be stepped on easily.
Hopefully this picture gives an idea of what I mean.

You should just have a wooden "box" as part of the pedalboard around those connectors which protects them from getting damaged. A much better solution than right-angled connectors which will be (especially in the case of a twist-to-lock connector like a powercon) difficult to attach and detach.

[Jay Marr]

You should just have a wooden "box" as part of the pedalboard around those connectors which protects them from getting damaged. A much better solution than right-angled connectors which will be (especially in the case of a twist-to-lock connector like a powercon) difficult to attach and detach.

The panel on the side is recessed as much as it can be, while still being able reach the release tabs for the XLR, Quarter and Powercon.
If the panel was recessed any more (which was my original idea), you can plug the cables in, but can't get your fingers in to release them.

If you take a look at the picture I posted earlier in the thread that shows a picture of the side of my pedal board, it is a wooden box.
It has my pedal (fractal AX8) fully enclosed.  My pedal board can literally be stood on, and not hurt anything inside.  It's a tank.
Anything and everything that can be protected, is being protected.

[Jay Marr]

Here is a pic of the entire pedal board.
AX8 screen and knobs are fully protected by the 'hatch/top cover'.
It's on a hinge so I can pop it open to get to the connection points on the front of the pedal.
The small piece of plexiglass is for the window I routed out, so that I can see the AX8 screen (and most importantly, my tuner).
That piece of angled aluminum makes it solid enough that anyone can stand on it.

This design is perfect for what I need.  Just need to make right angle connections.

[Mike Caldwell]

Here is a pic of the entire pedal board.
AX8 screen and knobs are fully protected by the 'hatch/top cover'.
It's on a hinge so I can pop it open to get to the connection points on the front of the pedal.
The small piece of plexiglass is for the window I routed out, so that I can see the AX8 screen (and most importantly, my tuner).
That piece of angled aluminum makes it solid enough that anyone can stand on it.

This design is perfect for what I need.  Just need to make right angle connections.

It looks like you built a sort of "dog house" style case for your Fractal.

If there is enough room behind it to mount the connectors in a small box or on a panel and then cut a slot in the side at the back to bring the cables into then close the lid. That way all the connections are protected.

Neutrik makes a rubber boot to fit over the back of all their D series connectors, putting one of those on the Powercon in the back of your case would eliminate the need for box or panel for it. They fit on fairly tight but I would secure it with a little glue and or and zip tie around the connector body.

http://www.neutrik.com/en/power/powercon-accessories/powercon/powercon-accessories/scdr

[Jay Marr]

It looks like you built a sort of "dog house" style case for your Fractal.

If there is enough room behind it to mount the connectors in a small box or on a panel and then cut a slot in the side at the back to bring the cables into then close the lid. That way all the connections are protected.

Neutrik makes a rubber boot to fit over the back of all their D series connectors, putting one of those on the Powercon in the back of your case would eliminate the need for box or panel for it. They fit on fairly tight but I would secure it with a little glue and or and zip tie around the connector body.

http://www.neutrik.com/en/power/powercon-accessories/powercon/powercon-accessories/scdr

Exactly, it's a doghouse style.  But the main reason for the dog house is to protect the knobs and screen (and not just the connection points).
I do have a boot like that on the backside of my powercon D-panel jack.
There is not enough room to recess that panel any further.  It makes the cable release tabs unreachable.  (see the pic I posted earlier in the thread)
The entire pedal board is staying the size it is.  It fits perfectly into a small anvil style brief case I have.
The space under the doghouse is used as precisely as possible to keep it that compact.  Yes I could have the cables hang out like a 'tail' and then connect a snake to it.  That is how I used to use it.  But I like the panel better.
You've got to trust me that I have thought this out a million times over.  I am just trying to refine it with right angle connections.

So far, Keith has the best solution.
I'm going to call Neurtrik tomorrow though to see if any of their right angle kits will work.

[Jonathan Johnson]

It needs to be right angle because the panel mount is on the side of a pedal board.
I have been gigging with regular style connectors, and based on the number of drunk girls dancing on stage, my cable ends are getting stepped on (and bent).
I need to create a tighter footprint where stuff can't be stepped on easily.
Hopefully this picture gives an idea of what I mean.

Another option is to use an IEC C14 male power inlet connector (same as on pretty much everything else in the world these days) on the pedal board, and a power cord with a right-angle IEC C13 female connector -- such cords are commonly available.

I found a few cords with locking IEC C13 connectors, but I couldn't find any in a right angle version.

With an ordinary right-angle cord, you could probably fashion some kind of removable keeper or velcro strap to keep the cord from being inadvertently removed. It wouldn't be as convenient as pushing a button.

EDIT: I found a right-angle, locking IEC C13 to NEMA 5-15P power cord, 6' long. There might be others, but I stopped searching when I found this. Looks like they will make custom cords, too.

[Jay Marr]

Another option is to use an IEC C14 male power inlet connector (same as on pretty much everything else in the world these days) on the pedal board, and a power cord with a right-angle IEC C13 female connector -- such cords are commonly available.

I found a few cords with locking IEC C13 connectors, but I couldn't find any in a right angle version.

With an ordinary right-angle cord, you could probably fashion some kind of removable keeper or velcro strap to keep the cord from being inadvertently removed. It wouldn't be as convenient as pushing a button.

EDIT: I found a right-angle, locking IEC C13 to NEMA 5-15P power cord, 6' long. There might be others, but I stopped searching when I found this. Looks like they will make custom cords, too.

Thanks for the link.
I thought about using a regular IEC cable, but I am trying to keep everything D-Panel (hard to see in the picture, but I made a 4 slot D-Panel from a piece of aluminum).

[Rick Scofield]

The issue I see using the Neutrik 90 degree solution (assuming it will work on powercon) is that it only replaces the collet, so essentially the 90 degree turn will be starting at, or past where your cable exits the straight collet you currently use.

So if the problem is how the cable lays, the Neutrik 90 might be a solution. But if you’re worried about punters crushing the CONNECTOR, the 90 degree collet will only give them a larger target to aim for.

[Jay Marr]

The issue I see using the Neutrik 90 degree solution (assuming it will work on powercon) is that it only replaces the collet, so essentially the 90 degree turn will be starting at, or past where your cable exits the straight collet you currently use.

So if the problem is how the cable lays, the Neutrik 90 might be a solution. But if you’re worried about punters crushing the CONNECTOR, the 90 degree collet will only give them a larger target to aim for.

I'm not quite sure how it will measure out.  I have a 'budget brand' 90 degree SpeakON in front of me right now and it does not stick out as far as the collet on the Powercon.  It's a little shorter, which is 'good enough' for what I'm looking to do.  I'm using an angled 1/4 and XLR, so the angled Powercon will allow all the cabling to slow the same direction, even if only saving me a small amount of 'exposed connector'.

I sent the question to Neutrik, so we'll see if they have any solutions to offer.

[ProSoundWeb Community]