Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[W. Mark Hellinger]

I'm looking for suggestions for a "better" grade of (nylon?) zip ties.  Something that somewhere more that 1 in 4 actually function (unlike the cheapies I've been attempting to use), and don't snap in two at temps under... oh... 68 deg. F (unlike the cheapies I've been attempting to use)... and if possible are black in color... and hopefully cost less than a buck apiece (would be nice).

Might be asking a lot... I dunno.

eh?

[Mark Cadwallader]

What size?  What tensile strength?  Is the application anything other than bundling wires or holding wires in a given location?

[Philip Roberts]

I'm partial to T&B. They use a metal catch that allows much finer steps as you tighten.

What sort of length and strength do you need?

[Lee Douglas]

I buy a lot from these guys: https://www.advancedcableties.com/.  You can get them through Action Fastners in Spokane.  I use their plenum rated product, almost exclusively, but have also ordered some of their cold weather products on occasion.  I'm sure they would have what you need.

[Craig Hauber]

I'm looking for suggestions for a "better" grade of (nylon?) zip ties.  Something that somewhere more that 1 in 4 actually function (unlike the cheapies I've been attempting to use), and don't snap in two at temps under... oh... 68 deg. F (unlike the cheapies I've been attempting to use)... and if possible are black in color... and hopefully cost less than a buck apiece (would be nice).

Might be asking a lot... I dunno.

eh?

I've had really old batches of them that behave like you describe, especially ones that have been left out and exposed to sunlight for a long time (like on the rack inside my windowed electrician's van)
Go to an electrical contractor supply-house, they usually have the good ones in large quantities.
The 1000-bag of Ideal branded ones at Depot/Lowes/Menards are ok as well.

[TJ (Tom) Cornish]

I've had pretty good luck with the Ideal white zip ties like Craig mentioned.  For some reason, black ones seem more brittle than white.

[Tim McCulloch]

Thomas & Betts.  The inventor and owner of the Ty-Rap brand and service marks.  The metal ratchet tab and 100% Nylon construction (availability in environment-resistant formulations, too) have made it the most reliable of the zip ties I've used over the last 30 years.

[W. Mark Hellinger]

What size?  What tensile strength?  Is the application anything other than bundling wires or holding wires in a given location?

Lengths:  Garden variety of generally 4" to 2', with 8" being the most common length used.

Tensile strength:  oh... 50lbs. would generally suffice on the 8" length.

Applications:  Yes, oftentimes bundling wires along with the common spectrum of applications associated with having "quite a few on-hand in my shop as well as a decent bundle in my gig case".  For instance:  Yesterday I zip-tied a temporary 150ft. run of CAT 5 cable to a conduit run in a warehouse... The day before I zip tied/affixed the control plug for the glow-plug module on my Sprinter van cause the clip on the plug broke... which admittedly isn't the best "fix", but like they say about gaff-tape:  "When you can't fix it right, but you still want it fixed."... and the zip-tie fix fixed the symptom (eventually... after many frustrating failed zip-ties while trying to install in a hard to get-to spot... outside in the snow & wind)... for now, till I can source & install a replacement plug.  And a couple days ago I zip-tie closed a couple large bags of crushed aluminum cans for recycling.  Anyhoo:  The failure rate of my current couple batches of cheapie, local hardware store sourced zip-ties is ridiculously high:  approx. 3/4 snap in-two or don't "catch" right out of the package.  I have a stash of old (20 year+) Panduit brand (as I think I recall... the labels on the packages are long-gone) zip-ties that I'm kind-of hoarding for higher reliability usage cause they're 100% function... which I finally resorted to on the Sprinter glow plug module field repair... but my stash of good tip-ties has about dwindled out.

[John Roberts {JR}]

Lengths:  Garden variety of generally 4" to 2', with 8" being the most common length used.

Tensile strength:  oh... 50lbs. would generally suffice on the 8" length.

Applications:  Yes, oftentimes bundling wires along with the common spectrum of applications associated with having "quite a few on-hand in my shop as well as a decent bundle in my gig case".  For instance:  Yesterday I zip-tied a temporary 150ft. run of CAT 5 cable to a conduit run in a warehouse... The day before I zip tied/affixed the control plug for the glow-plug module on my Sprinter van cause the clip on the plug broke... which admittedly isn't the best "fix", but like they say about gaff-tape:  "When you can't fix it right, but you still want it fixed."... and the zip-tie fix fixed the symptom (eventually... after many frustrating failed zip-ties while trying to install in a hard to get-to spot... outside in the snow & wind)... for now, till I can source & install a replacement plug.  And a couple days ago I zip-tie closed a couple large bags of crushed aluminum cans for recycling.  Anyhoo:  The failure rate of my current couple batches of cheapie, local hardware store sourced zip-ties is ridiculously high:  approx. 3/4 snap in-two or don't "catch" right out of the package.  I have a stash of old (20 year+) Panduit brand (as I think I recall... the labels on the packages are long-gone) zip-ties that I'm kind-of hoarding for higher reliability usage cause they're 100% function... which I finally resorted to on the Sprinter glow plug module field repair... but my stash of good tip-ties has about dwindled out.

The shear strength of even good zip ties is not going to win strong man awards.

When I was designing my current version drum tuner I did a lot of work getting a package where I could ship with the batteries installed. I tried to hold the batteries in place with a zip tie and they would shear from even modest drop tests, not the more severe Gs I expect from fedex/ups/etc.

I eventually evolved the package so the cable tie was not exposed to high shear forces. I expect there's a market for stronger zip ties, but there may be other unintended consequences (besides higher cost). 

JR

[Stephen Kirby]

Haven't had issues with the zip ties I've gotten from Fry's Electronics or Home Depot.

But please, for the love of knuckles and fingers, get a proper Panduit gun to pull them tight and clip them.  I hate slicing my hands dealing with things people have cut the tie wraps with side cutters on.  The gun is faster and easier.  Anyone dealing with racks and cable bundles should have one.

[Keith Broughton]

Haven't had issues with the zip ties I've gotten from Fry's Electronics or Home Depot.

But please, for the love of knuckles and fingers, get a proper Panduit gun to pull them tight and clip them.  I hate slicing my hands dealing with things people have cut the tie wraps with side cutters on.  The gun is faster and easier.  Anyone dealing with racks and cable bundles should have one.

And flush cut side cutters.

[Jonathan Johnson]

I don't know what your application is, or what zip ties you've been buying, but I find that for general purpose use the Commercial Electric ones from Home Depot are just fine and reasonably priced.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/203531924

But please, for the love of knuckles and fingers, get a proper Panduit gun to pull them tight and clip them.  I hate slicing my hands dealing with things people have cut the tie wraps with side cutters on.  The gun is faster and easier.  Anyone dealing with racks and cable bundles should have one.

^^^This. A carelessly trimmed zip tie can draw blood.

I don't have the Panduit gun, but I've got a pair of Klein "Kurve" #63020 cutters that work fairly well for cutting the ties. To trim the tails, use the tip of the cutter with the anvil against the "latch" of the tie so the blade skims the outer face of the latch, shearing across the width of the tail so it's trimmed flush. That avoids a sharp edge on the tail.

You can also use the shear on the cutter to open a tie by cutting across the latch, avoiding the danger of nicking a cable.

Probably not as good or convenient as the Panduit gun, but a thousand times better than what a pair of sidecutters leaves behind.

[Ron Hebbard]

And flush cut side cutters.

  A properly adjusted Ty-Wrap gun beats "flush cutters" hands down by pulling on the tie at the instant of cutting such that the tie withdraws by a fraction of one of its increments post having been cut.  When the tool is correctly adjusted, the trimmed end is ever so slightly below flush. 
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

[Tim McCulloch]

  A properly adjusted Ty-Wrap gun beats "flush cutters" hands down by pulling on the tie at the instant of cutting such that the tie withdraws by a fraction of one of its increments post having been cut.  When the tool is correctly adjusted, the trimmed end is ever so slightly below flush. 
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

^^^ Likey ^^^

[John Roberts {JR}]

  A properly adjusted Ty-Wrap gun beats "flush cutters" hands down by pulling on the tie at the instant of cutting such that the tie withdraws by a fraction of one of its increments post having been cut.  When the tool is correctly adjusted, the trimmed end is ever so slightly below flush. 
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

ASSuming you use tie wraps conventional ways....

I use them to basically index a PCB clamp in place. I have to cut off the fat end at an angle so I can feed it through a drilled hole. But don't worry you won't encounter it unless you change batteries in one of my drum tuners and those batteries last a pretty long time (by design).

JR

[ProSoundWeb Community]