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[Stephen Kirby]

Something else I've observed from product videos is the minimum height of the Duratruss and ST-132 stands-it appears to be around 6'.

Is this the case?  I may not be tall enough to single handedly put an SM-80 up on one.

Best regards,

John

This is why I typically stand on my subs to put the speakers on.  Otherwise it's essentially an overhead lift, although that does make it easier to see the pole cup. 

[Peter Morris]

@Peter

Is the dual 21" sub your own design as well?  If so, is there information about the sub in the Soundforums thread about the New DIY Mid High box?

It’s basically 2 of the B&C standard 21” designs joined together with the dimensions adjusted slightly to match my existing double 18” subs – same height and depth. The both have almost the same tuning frequency and phase response so the play well together. I have reduced the timber thickness (25mm to 19mm) and added substantial bracing to reduce the weight.
 
The width of the box is exactly the same width as my Turbosound Flex Array so you can neatly stack four Flex on top.  They are also sized so they will fit through a standard doorway and are truck and van friendly.

There is a heavy duty pole mount on the side so you can use a K&M winch up pole ...

https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Distance-and-extension-rods/21338-Distance-rod-with-hand-crank-black

and a hole and tube in the top of the box so the winch up pole can be dropped inside the dox leaving just enough space so the handle can be turned (see my above picture). This limits the height that you have to lift your mid – hi speaker to get it on the pole and makes the pole very stable. 

In addition there are two mounting points on the back of the box to connect the winch pole.  The pole just drops in place and is secured by one quick release pin.

[Nils Erickson]

My reasoning too.  Someone mentioned the footprint of the Duratruss 3800, and of course, it is smaller all around(less capacity, lighter weight to pack, etc.).  The ST132 is probably the safer bet for an SM80 for these obvious reasons.

There is also the larger Duratruss ST-3900 stand, which is closer to the ST132 in footprint, but still weighs less and holds more.

That may be the one to get. 

Best regards,

John

Sorry, I am a little slow getting back to this thread.  I have used my SM80s on ST-132... very stable, and also very high to lift unless you are standing on the stage, or some subs.  I think this would not be the easiest to "tip up" with the speaker on it either... the stands are bulky and a little heavy.

Cheers,
Nils

[Sean Mormelo]

Gents, is pricing that tight that you can’t afford a young tech to help lift, load in and out. $150 should suffice for that kinda labor, at least around here. Can you bake that coat into your pricing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Nick Andrews]

You cant really do that, the load has to be in the centre of the box so you need use a canter lever arm. You cant put a counter lever arm on the DT-3800 because its not designed for the bending moment caused by the counter lever. The base or size of the sub also has to be large enough to make it stable. There are a couple of solutions below.

Peter,

Can you tell me a model # on that short k&m pole with the crank ? I've been looking for something like this without any luck.

Thanks so much!

[Peter Morris]

Peter,

Can you tell me a model # on that short k&m pole with the crank ? I've been looking for something like this without any luck.

Thanks so much!

21338 Distance rod with hand crank - black

https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Distance-and-extension-rods/21338-Distance-rod-with-hand-crank-black

21340 Distance rod with hand crank and »Ring Lock« - black

https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Distance-and-extension-rods/21340-Distance-rod-with-hand-crank-and-Ring-Lock-black

[Frederik Rosenkjær]

Peter,

Can you tell me a model # on that short k&m pole with the crank ? I've been looking for something like this without any luck.

Thanks so much!

Be sure to check out the K&M stands with built-in gas spring. I'm using it with SM80s and it works beautifully. Perfectly matched - the spring is right around it's equilibrium and you can raise and lower the speaker with zero effort.

They come in both a stand and a rod version, but the rod version, for some reason, isn't as powerful - still works very well, though.

https://produkte.k-m.de/en/product?info=1506&x485b1=f94eb1e99783e4a1df944188fe45c8f3

https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Speaker-stands/21463-Speaker-stand-with-pneumatic-spring-black

[Nick Andrews]

Be sure to check out the K&M stands with built-in gas spring. I'm using it with SM80s and it works beautifully. Perfectly matched - the spring is right around it's equilibrium and you can raise and lower the speaker with zero effort.

They come in both a stand and a rod version, but the rod version, for some reason, isn't as powerful - still works very well, though.

https://produkte.k-m.de/en/product?info=1506&x485b1=f94eb1e99783e4a1df944188fe45c8f3

https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Speaker-stands/21463-Speaker-stand-with-pneumatic-spring-black

Thanks guys , my question to Peter is. Did you cut the poke down ? In the picture you posted with the double 18 and the hand krank pole , it is extremely short , which is what in looking for. If you did cut it can you tell me how you did it without destroying to pole ? I want to get the m20 version also... I'm thinking maybe it's possible to cut from the center ?

Thanks !

[David Morison]

Thanks guys , my question to Peter is. Did you cut the poke down ? In the picture you posted with the double 18 and the hand krank pole , it is extremely short , which is what in looking for. If you did cut it can you tell me how you did it without destroying to pole ? I want to get the m20 version also... I'm thinking maybe it's possible to cut from the center ?

Thanks !

Peter mentioned either earlier in this thread, or possibly another one, the pole mount socket is recessed part way down into the sub to achieve that effect, no cutting of the pole involved.
You couldn't realistically cut it anyway, as if you cut the lower part you wouldn't be able to wind it down - where would the lower end of the upper part go after all ;-)

[Mac Kerr]

Hey guys.

I just joined up, as this topic is also very important to me, and I've been doing a lot of thinking on it.

Please go to your profile and change the "Name" field to your real first and last name as required by the posting rules displayed in the header at the top of the section, and in the Site Rules and Suggestions in the Forum Announcements section, and on the registration page when you registered.

Mac
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