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[Josh Billings]

My buddy has a venue and has neighbors that are getting a little fussy with the subwoofer kick thumping. I'm looking for someone in the Southern California area that can help consult with them on what needs to be done to get their exterior sound bleed under control.

Was considering suggesting a cardiod sub array, but not sure if that will really help.

Hit me up via PM or feel free to reply on here

Josh Billings

[MikeHarris]

I'm not in SoCal but the first step is usually isolating the subs from the physical structure.

[Craig Hauber]

My buddy has a venue and has neighbors that are getting a little fussy with the subwoofer kick thumping. I'm looking for someone in the Southern California area that can help consult with them on what needs to be done to get their exterior sound bleed under control.

Was considering suggesting a cardiod sub array, but not sure if that will really help.

Hit me up via PM or feel free to reply on here

Josh Billings

I've got 3 clients in that part of the country with the same problem.
-They keep building high density apts/condos up against clubs that have been there for decades in what used to be commercial zoned areas.

Cardiod does nothing.  Basically (as far as LF is concerned) the building just re-radiates the contained sound with it's own dispersion and coverage characteristics

Another thing that people forget when treating a place is that typical flat roofs (in regions that don't need insulation) let most of the sound through. 
Discovered this with clients that have solid masonry & concrete buildings with all doors and windows sealed and barely any difference in exterior measurements when compared to a place with an unused 2nd floor.

Also discovered that among expensive "acousticians" there seems to many that can make an interior sound great, but know nothing of stopping that sound from leaving the building!

One client had to make the choice between his liquor license or basically anything below 120Hz! -he unplugged subs and all problems vanished (-to the dismay of his DJ's of course)


Funny how nobody complains about all the loud motorcycles that roar up that street constantly -that you really notice now that the music isn't loud enough inside to drown them out!

[Benjamin Krumholz]

Supersoundproofing.org.. Randy Seig.. They are in San Diego I believe..

[Ivan Beaver]

There are 2 basic ways to stop sound transmission.

Thick limp mass and air tight seals.

That does more than anything

[Josh Billings]

There are 2 basic ways to stop sound transmission.

Thick limp mass and air tight seals.

That does more than anything

I feel like I'm setting up a good "That's what she said" but what are some good examples of thick limp mass?

Josh

[Ivan Beaver]

I feel like I'm setting up a good "That's what she said" but what are some good examples of thick limp mass?

Josh

6' thick lead walls.

But that is often hard to achieve.

A good example of how to reduce sound transmission is this simple idea.
MASS-airspace-MASS.

So 2 walls that are NOT connected together, but have an airspace between them

Ideally each wall is double thick sheetrock on ONE side-NOT both sides (of each wall).

The sheetrock is on the outer sides of the walls.  So if you are standing in the airspace (it does not need to be large enough to stand in-6 to 12" is usually fine) you would be looking at the studs and backside of the sheetrock.

Steel studs are better for stopping sound transmission.  Wood studs are better for making the room sound better.  So maybe steel on the outside and wood on the inside.

Also stagger the studs so they do not line up with each other.  That way the flexible part of one wall is opposite the rigid part of the other.

Some LOOSE fiberglass is not a bad idea.  You DO NOT want to pack it in.

Be sure to tape all joints (on each layer).

Each wall needs to stand on its own.

Use double doors (with 6 feet or so between them) and make sure they are HEAVY SOLID doors with firm tight seals.

Seal up all mechanical exits in the building.  Gas line, electrical, AC entrances etc.

Seal up all wall outlets to prevent air leaks from getting through them.
Acoustical caulk is best-due to the flexibility over time.

[Dave Garoutte]

Here's a DIY 'book'.

SoundProofing Secrets
By Craig Williams at SoundProofingSecrets.com

[Robert Healey]

My buddy has a venue and has neighbors that are getting a little fussy with the subwoofer kick thumping. I'm looking for someone in the Southern California area that can help consult with them on what needs to be done to get their exterior sound bleed under control.

Was considering suggesting a cardiod sub array, but not sure if that will really help.

Hit me up via PM or feel free to reply on here

Josh Billings

http://ncac.com/resources/directory/

[Tim McCulloch]

Rigidity and mass (and I'm not talking about religion or sex).

Rigidity because you don't want the walls or ceiling/roof to be a big diaphragm, mass because it takes more energy to make it move.

Once you've made a tight, non-diaphragmatic box we then screw it all up with penetrations through the walls, roofs and floors that must be sealed.  Think of vestibules as a way of sealing...

To borrow Dave Steven's "Anvil of Reality" there is likely little that can be done if the residential neighbors have money and political clout and really, really want the club out of business.  The situation improves if the neighbors are realistic and not out to close the place, but remediation that provides significant, demonstrable reduction in sound transmission will probably be financially impossible for the club.

[ProSoundWeb Community]