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[Debbie Dunkley]

if you don't already have... add a set of 'helping hands' to that wish list

I already have one!... I also have an old (easily 25 years) mini vise with suction cup mount that I use all the time too. It would be nice if the helping hands had a suction cup base or a weighted base  - I find it a bit unstable.

[Debbie Dunkley]

I am not a fan of lead-free.  I much prefer good old 63-37 Tin/lead with some ventilation.  Once your done just wash your hands and every things good.
I have Kester #66 / 245 on my bench, along with some other "no-clean" type products.

What do you find the main difference is in the effectiveness and usability between the 2 as some prefer the lead free? My solder is so old that I can't read what it is and to be honest I have no idea whether it has lead in it or not- I probably should know that.

[TJ (Tom) Cornish]

I am not a fan of lead-free.  I much prefer good old 63-37 Tin/lead with some ventilation. 

That depends on what you're working on.  If you work on anything made within the last 10 years, you will likely be working on lead-free solder, and mixing leaded and lead-free isn't a good thing (though the criticality of this depends on your standards and isn't probably a deal-breaker for making XLR cables). 

[Tim McCulloch]

I'm another satisfied Hakko owner.  I have a 936 on my bench and carry an FX-600 in my tool box.  Solder is Kester 44, 63/37... don't recall the diameter.  IMHO lead-free solders are not as forgiving of temperature variations and to my old eyes, every joint looks cold.

For occasional cable repairs the Hakko Dash (FX-650) might be enough.

As for your existing solder, Debbie, it's probably lead-bearing if it's so old you can't read the label.  TJ's point about mixing solders is good advice, but unless you're doing PCB component-level repairs (and re-flowing is a likely technique) it probably won't matter.  Get some lead-free solder to keep in your kit, though, in case you embark on a field repair of heroic proportions.

[TJ (Tom) Cornish]

What do you find the main difference is in the effectiveness and usability between the 2 as some prefer the lead free? My solder is so old that I can't read what it is and to be honest I have no idea whether it has lead in it or not- I probably should know that.

If your solder is more than 10 years old, it is almost certainly leaded, as the RoHS push was around 10 years ago, which drove the change to lead-free.

Leaded solder melts at a slightly lower temperature than lead-free.  In practice this means you have a little less time to work on a joint after you remove your iron with lead-free, but if you are competent soldering with leaded solder, you will have no material issues with lead-free.

I don't think this is a major dogmatic issue; my main reason for suggesting lead-free is that restrictions on lead-bearing products will only increase over time, so you may as well make the jump now (or when your old solder roll runs out).

[Debbie Dunkley]

Great info here guys - thank you. Yes, my solder wire is old and has to be leaded. But good advice to get some lead free in my kit.

I don't do field repairs as I don't get enough time on the shows I run - so I rely on keeping spares of everything. I take care of anything else back at home.
Hakko definitely has the votes so I'll keep the one suggested on my wish list.

I find these days that it is my eyesight that lets me down when I solder. I use the magnifier on the helping hands tool a lot more now. Still got a nice steady hand though.... age sucks!

[Tim Hite]

Debbie, I would get the Hakko FX-888D station and lead-free rosin-core solder somewhere around .050" diameter.  No external flux should be used, and make sure you NEVER use acid-based flux, such as that used for plumbing.

FX888 is a fine iron. The nippers Amazon throws in are nice, too.

I keep several kinds of solder on hand depending what I'm working on. Solder is Kester 44 in 63/37 for repairs, Kester 48 SnAgCu for new work. I've also one of those cheapo solder racks to hold my rolls, and a PanaVise Junior to hold the iron when I'm soldering cable ends.

Tried the Cardas Audio solder, and haven't been particularly happy with the results it delivers. Doesn't flow well.

[Debbie Dunkley]

FX888 is a fine iron. The nippers Amazon throws in are nice, too.

I keep several kinds of solder on hand depending what I'm working on. Solder is Kester 44 in 63/37 for repairs, Kester 48 SnAgCu for new work. I've also one of those cheapo solder racks to hold my rolls, and a PanaVise Junior to hold the iron when I'm soldering cable ends.

Tried the Cardas Audio solder, and haven't been particularly happy with the results it delivers. Doesn't flow well.

I had the package with the cutters on my wish list first but then I saw for $3 more the package including tip cleaner.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DUPRXCE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3846W7IHHN3J8&colid=Y5GTE86VLF72

[Tim Hite]

. . .
I find these days that it is my eyesight that lets me down when I solder. I use the magnifier on the helping hands tool a lot more now. Still got a nice steady hand though.... age sucks!

I use one of these. . .I' not proud of it. . .

https://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multi-Power-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1507832807&sr=8-8&keywords=Headband+Magnifier

I had the package with the cutters on my wish list first but then I saw for $3 more the package including tip cleaner.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DUPRXCE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3846W7IHHN3J8&colid=Y5GTE86VLF72

The tip cleaner is the same stuff that's already included in the stand that comes with the iron.

[Debbie Dunkley]

I use one of these. . .I' not proud of it. . .

https://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multi-Power-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1507832807&sr=8-8&keywords=Headband+Magnifier

I could see me using one of those.

[ProSoundWeb Community]