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[Mac Kerr]

The individual pairs go right through the RJ45 and the tool chops excess off.  No need to strip jacket to proper length.

These are much easier to terminate CAT5 connectors, but is there a shielded version or a CAT6 version? I am not aware of either.

Mac

[James Cotton]

These are much easier to terminate CAT5 connectors, but is there a shielded version or a CAT6 version? I am not aware of either.

Mac

Yup, they're available in all varieties. CAT5, CAT6 shielded and non, pick your combination.

Here's the CAT6 shielded version.......
https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/si/1305/12924/CAT6-Shielded-EZ-RJ45-Plugs/S1.O3/easy+rj45

That's a UK supplier but they're readily available on your side of the pond too.

[Brian Jojade]

Can you point me to a $20 crimper that actually works and won't fall apart after a few ends? Last cheap one I bought, I had to finish pin 1 connection with a small screwdriver and a hammer. The one before that never worked unless I took a hammer to it.

http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wiring-accessories/electrical-tools/data-communication/datashark-all-in-one-crimper/p-1472411-c-6454.htm

I've had pretty good luck with this unit. One was given to me, and it works better than the one that I have that cost me about $150 a decade ago, so it's my go to unit now.

As far as connectors not crimping correctly, I've found more often than not it's the connector that's at fault instead of the tool.  With any of my crimpers, cheap RJ45s would give me nothing but issues. Quality RJ45's work just dandy fine.

[John L Nobile]

http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wiring-accessories/electrical-tools/data-communication/datashark-all-in-one-crimper/p-1472411-c-6454.htm

I've had pretty good luck with this unit. One was given to me, and it works better than the one that I have that cost me about $150 a decade ago, so it's my go to unit now.

As far as connectors not crimping correctly, I've found more often than not it's the connector that's at fault instead of the tool.  With any of my crimpers, cheap RJ45s would give me nothing but issues. Quality RJ45's work just dandy fine.

Thanks for the link and the tip on RJ45's. I've been doing IT for a few years now in what used to be my spare time. Still have lots to learn. Same thing with audio

[Scott Holtzman]

Thanks for the link and the tip on RJ45's. I've been doing IT for a few years now in what used to be my spare time. Still have lots to learn. Same thing with audio

I finally stepped up from my Amp crimper about a year ago to a Paladin.  Interchangeable dies allow you to do different types of termination and replace the tie when it gets sloppy.

[John Rutirasiri]

These are much easier to terminate CAT5 connectors, but is there a shielded version or a CAT6 version? I am not aware of either.

Mac

Here you go...
http://www.platinumtools.com/products/100020.php

Nice to not have to bother with the shield/drain wire to the housing.

John R.

[Dan Mortensen]

Here you go...
http://www.platinumtools.com/products/100020.php

Nice to not have to bother with the shield/drain wire to the housing.

John R.

At our workshop the presenters were skeptical of the pressed ground connection. The design doesn't seem to be crimping ground with a dedicated crimp like the other eight wires, so that only leaves pressed, right? So it's just kind of jammed in with the jacket and can wiggle loose, was the opinion. YMMV

[Brian Adams]

At our workshop the presenters were skeptical of the pressed ground connection. The design doesn't seem to be crimping ground with a dedicated crimp like the other eight wires, so that only leaves pressed, right? So it's just kind of jammed in with the jacket and can wiggle loose, was the opinion. YMMV

Dan, I use these exact connectors for my cables. The solution to the problem you describe is to leave the drain wire long, and trim it to length so it can be soldered to the shell. I go to the bottom of the shell, right behind the pressed-in strain relief. Works great. I don't care if they say "internal ground" or not, I'm not taking any chances.

I bought some Elite Core branded "tactical" shielded Cat5, and that's how they were built. I really like those cables, actually. The quality really surprised me, especially for the price.

In my opinion, the Platinum pass-through connectors are great to work with, especially on heavy/tactical Cat5. The crimper that trims the excess is awesome too. I've been using these connectors since long before I bought the crimper, and once I bought it I was kicking myself for waiting so long.

http://www.platinumtools.com/products/100054.php

[Dan Mortensen]

Dan, I use these exact connectors for my cables. The solution to the problem you describe is to leave the drain wire long, and trim it to length so it can be soldered to the shell. I go to the bottom of the shell, right behind the pressed-in strain relief. Works great. I don't care if they say "internal ground" or not, I'm not taking any chances.

Thanks, Brian; I agree that soldered is the way to go despite the "no solder needed" label that is apparently on that style of connector. That was the conclusion of our presenter as well, and I was replying to John R's assertion that solder was not needed.

Thanks for the link to the tool.

[Kevin Maxwell]

it will be used for audio consoles mostly i assume. and whoever else needs a run of cat5 (or cat6, which i will probably end up running if its what you all recommend)

why would i run 6 of them? just curious

this is literally the first time i have dealt with the touring package not bringing it here, but they are carrying foh and monitor consoles, so theres that.

we are a old movie theatre. we have a under the floor place to run cables from foh to the stage. its not something easily accessed, but i can permanently run cabling that way. its a old airshaft or something of some sort under our floor. no need to run cabling along the sides and put out cable ramps, like usual.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As other have suggested having the ability to pull the bands cabling thru the trough (air shaft) is a good idea but not if it is being pulled thru what you already have run. Your stuff will get damaged very quickly. If you want to leave your installed cable find another path for it or maybe you can put it in a flexi conduit to protect it. If you can somehow secure the flexible conduit so it stays to one side of the trough you might be ok. And have a couple of pull lines that aren’t intertwined. That in and of itself can be a challenge.

[ProSoundWeb Community]