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[Bob Kidd]

When I say I "made" the stand, I meant that I assembled it from stock truss components and fitted it to the speakers. Credit for the nice welding job goes to some anonymous Chinese factory worker.

Looks great, I have numerous truss systems due to our light production side of business. I have looked at numerous ways to raise my speakers to keep subs on floor but no luck. Mainly because it would be used in bar venues. With have truss already available this would make it possible.

[Brian O'Shaughnessy]

I have JBL VP7215 cabs. They weigh 85lbs. and cost a shit pile of money. They came with no pole sockets. I found the center of gravity, drilled some holes and installed my own pole sockets. Been using them on a crank up stand for about 4-5 years now.

This is just what I did. works good for me. Not sure if this will work for you. I'm not familiar with your cabinets. I don't think I would tri pod mount a dual 15 cab. Just use some common since.

Nice! This is awesome to hear you've done something similar with good success. This is good news! And fortunately these cabinets are just a single 15' and not a double though the model # seems like it would indicate otherwise.

Brian -

I've put QW2 speakers (97 lb.) on stands on occasion, not a big deal.  Since your speakers are similar in shape and 15 lb. lighter, very doable.   I've mounted tophats into various speakers with good results. 

I take a 4' piece of 2" OD iron pipe and roll it under the speaker, parallel to the front face, then roll the speaker front to rear until it will balance (more or less...) on the pipe.  I find the point that the cab will just fall forward, mark where the pipe contacts the speaker sides, then do the same with the speaker just falling rearward.  I split the difference, mark that point, then connect the dots side to side.  I perform the same procedure with the pipe front to rear of the box, letting it fall left/right etc., connect the dots.  The lines cross at the balance point.  I have a 2" piece of the 2" pipe I tape to the cab, centered around the BP, and balance the box on the floor as a check.  Never a problem.

Proper selection of a quality STEEL mounting cup with a reasonably wide base plate is important.  Use bolts/nuts/loctite, NOT wood screws.  Good luck.

-Tim T

Thanks for the info! That method sounds really good for finding the center of gravity, and I was thinking t-nuts and bolts definitely will avoid wood screws. I didn't think about loctite though, good idea.

[Lyle Williams]

With all due respect to Mike...who is a professional...I'd feel a lot better if that base plate extended 2 or 3 feet further in every direction no matter how much it weighs.

+1

I'd be looking for a width equivalent to the tripod it is replacing.

[Jay Barracato]

+1

I'd be looking for a width equivalent to the tripod it is replacing.

I am not going to try to do any engineering based on a photo but I will point out that you need to consider the center of mass of the whole system as well as the possible pivot points. In order to tip the center of mass must pass over the pivot point. A fairly lightweight tripod does not do much to change the center of mass of the system so it must rely on spreading the possible pivot points. Whereas if Mike's system has even just a 60 pound baseplate that is significantly lowering the center of mass of the system. As a user, I probably wouldn't bother having multiple plates, and with the 90 pound plate, that looks to me like it would be rock solid (even surpassing all but the heaviest tripods).

I had thought of a similar solution with a single piece of truss but I really like the idea now of using the shorter pieces to vary the height.

[Jamin Lynch]

Fortunately, JBL had a drawing showing the center point on the bottom of the cabinet. I verified that by using a piece of 1 3/8od tubing X 1" long and balanced the cabinet until it would stay by itself.

Once I verified the pole socket would not hit the woofer, I removed the speakers, (got a bullet to bite on,) and drilled the hole. I backed up the bolts with large flat washers and used lock nuts.

To lift, I lay the speaker face down on the ground, with the cover on, open up the tri-pod stand and stab it into the speaker then raise the whole thing up. Crank up to proper height. Easy. Of coarse it's better with help but I do it all the time by myself.

I'm sure some people will chime in about safety issues and how you will void your warranty. That's for you to decide.

[john sanders]

If it had a pole cup installed properly I would not hesitate to put it on a decent stand. My old ART500s were about that weight and were always stand mounted on Ultimate TS99Bs.

In the absence of the cup, you might consider doing something like this arrangement I made for a QRX212. The truss plate is bolted to the cabinet through the flyware mounting attachment holes. If I were putting them up higher I'd use the 90 lb. baseplates.

Mike,

What an elegant set up! Please take some close ups of exactly how the speaker/stand attachment is made. I'd love to put my trusses to work.

[Jamin Lynch]

Mike,

What an elegant set up! Please take some close ups of exactly how the speaker/stand attachment is made. I'd love to put my trusses to work.

You could even dress that up a bit with a truss sock and LED light inside the truss

[frank kayser]

If it had a pole cup installed properly I would not hesitate to put it on a decent stand. My old ART500s were about that weight and were always stand mounted on Ultimate TS99Bs.

In the absence of the cup, you might consider doing something like this arrangement I made for a QRX212. The truss plate is bolted to the cabinet through the flyware mounting attachment holes. If I were putting them up higher I'd use the 90 lb. baseplates.

Did I understand - Interchangeable baseplates? 90#
Maybe some round baseplates - could tip the plate and roll it into position.


Otherwise, very slick looking.  I, too, would like a bit more detail on the connection to the speaker.


frank

[Tim McCulloch]

Did I understand - Interchangeable baseplates? 90#
Maybe some round baseplates - could tip the plate and roll it into position.


Otherwise, very slick looking.  I, too, would like a bit more detail on the connection to the speaker.


frank

The plate that is on top of the truss is from the truss manufacturer.  All Mike did was drill holes that matched the speaker's factory installed, threaded rigging inserts and used bolts/machine screws to attach the plate to the speaker.

[George Dougherty]

Yes, I don't want any pole top hats buried in any woofers 

but it's a single 15 inch not a double

And Mike that looks really nice, that might be a good option for me.

Why would you not want to install a pole cup near the center of gravity?

For all the "If the manufacturer thought it would be safe.." comments.  It's very possible, given the fly points, that the manufacturer intended it as an install cabinet and opted to omit the top-hat for aesthetic purposes. 

Find the balance point like others have suggested and it should sit rather nicely straight down on the pole without any awkward lateral forces.  Installing top-hats is far from rocket science.  Assuming the cabinet exterior is a decent thickness, and the top of the cabinet sits on top of the cabinet base rather than assembled as a sleeve around the sides of the base (which would be an odd construction method) there should be no problem in mounting a top-hat and using them on poles given all the previously mentioned caveats.

In my younger days I regularly mounted 80lb Peavey SP2G's on speaker stands with no problems other than the effort required.

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