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Author Topic: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)  (Read 770 times)

Rich Grisier

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Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« on: April 03, 2014, 02:38:43 pm »

I just made the leap to a KW system. I'll be running a KW153 over two KW181 per side. My question is how do you get power to the speakers? I've read that each box will draw about 2 to 2.5 Amps on average- not sure about the peaks. Do you just run a 12AWG extension cord from an outlet (I use a Furman ADC-100 distro) to the stack and then use a 1:3 plug splitter then run the 18AWG IEC cables from the boxes to the splitter? I'm leery of running a 6-outlet 15A plug strip to the boxes. I'm afraid they'll pop the breaker on a kick drum hit or something. I'm also concerned about the plug splitter- I'm afraid it will overheat.

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Craig Hamilton

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2014, 03:19:40 pm »

You should be more than fine with just 3 boxes on a cord or power strip. As you said even with peaks, one side should draw way less than 10a.
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Paul G. OBrien

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2014, 03:21:29 pm »

Buy or make a couple 2 or 3 outlet extension cords, 3 outlet because you may want to mount a light fixture or something on top of the stack for some events. If you have a couple suitable extension cords already you could chop the female end off and attach a single or dual gang box on the end, otherwise a nice heavy duty 14ga extension will do the trick. Personally I don't like putting a power bar with open receptacles out in the open like this it just encourages others to plug something in that shouldn't be there.
« Last Edit: April 03, 2014, 03:26:57 pm by Paul G. OBrien »
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bruce gering

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2014, 05:19:18 pm »

Do yourself a favor and make up some quad edison boxes with a 10'-20' 12awg cord leading to them. Drop one box per side and have an outlet leftover for an LED light tree or whatever you may need. I hate those molded 3 way cords.

While you're at it, gang 2 short IEC cords and 1 long one together with zip ties. This will go from the quads to the stacks and make setup all that much easier and faster.

Happy trails!
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Mike Sullivan

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2014, 11:44:29 pm »

Do yourself a favor and make up some quad edison boxes with a 10'-20' 12awg cord leading to them. Drop one box per side and have an outlet leftover for an LED light tree or whatever you may need. I hate those molded 3 way cords.

While you're at it, gang 2 short IEC cords and 1 long one together with zip ties. This will go from the quads to the stacks and make setup all that much easier and faster.

Happy trails!

That's what I did with mine. I built quad boxes with 50 foot tails for mine, not a problem out of them yet. 
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Mike Sullivan - Ice Cold Entertainment Ashland, KY

Steve M Smith

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #5 on: April 04, 2014, 02:41:41 am »

gang 2 short IEC cords and 1 long one together with zip ties.

Except use tape instead of ties.  Your hands will thank you.


Steve.
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bruce gering

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #6 on: April 04, 2014, 08:48:34 am »

Except use tape instead of ties.  Your hands will thank you.


Steve.

Wimp! :)
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Rich Grisier

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2014, 10:20:02 am »

Do yourself a favor and make up some quad edison boxes with a 10'-20' 12awg cord leading to them. Drop one box per side and have an outlet leftover for an LED light tree or whatever you may need. I hate those molded 3 way cords.

While you're at it, gang 2 short IEC cords and 1 long one together with zip ties. This will go from the quads to the stacks and make setup all that much easier and faster.

Happy trails!

Good suggestion!

Any recommendations on what 12awg electrical cable to use?  Something durable and flexible is preferable.
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Steve M Smith

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2014, 11:46:09 am »

Wimp! :)

Is it possible that I misunderstood your original post?  I thought you meant using cable ties to hold two cables parallel to each other.  You certainly don't want to do that as you will tear your hands to shreds coiling them back up.


Steve.
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Tim McCulloch

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Re: Getting power to powered speakers (KW153 / KW181)
« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2014, 12:37:42 pm »

Good suggestion!

Any recommendations on what 12awg electrical cable to use?  Something durable and flexible is preferable.

Don't use Romex®. ;)

Do you work out doors?  Are you likely to see a fire or electrical inspector?  If so you should be Code-compliant, and Code requires "extra-hard service rated" portable cords.  Cords are rated and labeled according to construction, materials, insulation thickness, resistance to ozone, oil, water, UV (sun), etc and that is what determines the alphabet soup of cable designations: S, SO, SC, W, SOW, SEOW....  If it has a "J" in it, like SJOW, the J stands for "junior hard service" and is not compliant for outdoor use.

We've been using Southwire's SEOOW 12/3, 10/4 and 10/5 cable.  The "E" is an elasto-polymer jacket that is lighter weight than others but has the same abrasion resistance and insulation qualities.  It handles well, too.

Also you will find that some manufacturers make the same product designation in 2 forms:  a UL-listed and labeled product, and an otherwise identical-appearing product that is not listed or labeled.  In some jurisdictions, in some venues, and with some clients UL listing is required of all electrical stuff; other places you could use white vinyl lamp cord and nobody official would care.  We buy UL listed cables.

The big manufacturers are General Cable (GEPCO), Coleman, Southwire and Carol, but they are not the only ones.  I'd avoid buying AC cable on eBay unless you know the seller and they pay return freight... there have been posts about sellers advertising #12 AWG wire that has the correct O.D., but the conductor is actually #16 AWG.  Insulation is cheaper than copper...
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