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[Phil Novick]

Dont get hung up on the setup wizard. Since you are just going from an analog crossover to a dsp, start by duplicating your 233xl settings in the driverack crossover section and then tweak from there.

Update: I set it up with the advice here, the Driverack is not completely intuitive. For example the lows allow me to choose bridged or normal but the top end doesn't?   I couldn't get the low end to thump hardly at all to keep up with the tops - it was weak.  I had to raise the low end EQ of the Presonus 24.4.2 to get the bass to respond (way up).  I took the advice of programming in similar amps to mine given mine are not in the presets.  That helped some.  I did a test and put the DBX233XL back in to the system and that thumped like crazy which told me it is how I have the Drive rack set up.  The one thing that made a big difference was going into the crossover and lowering the low end crossover down to 30 Hz (it was set higher - I assume I was only capturing the 80-100 hz range before I did that).  I raised the crossover point to 100 on the subs and lowered it to 100 on the tops.  I started to get a good response.  Still not what I want, but I was able to back the low EQ back to flat response off the board for the most part.  The difference between the 233Xl and the Driverack is noticeable to my ears as the Driverack is a much tighter on the bass and I do like that a lot. Running through the 233XL it more rumbles and the Driverack is tight, that I like.  I still want to get the low end to produce more overall.  Any suggestions, input sensitivity settings, levels, etc.

[Craig Hamilton]

Looking at the speakers you have, the EAW have a -3 at 80hz and the subs have a -3 at 40hz so I would run the sub crossover 40hz high pass and 90hz low pass. Run the EAW channels 90hz high pass. Defeat all eq and start by balancing the sub vs main channels. Prob run the EAW at -6 to -9 output with the subs at 0 output to start then adjust as needed. EAW should have recommended dsp settings available for eq.

[Phil Novick]

Looking at the speakers you have, the EAW have a -3 at 80hz and the subs have a -3 at 40hz so I would run the sub crossover 40hz high pass and 90hz low pass. Run the EAW channels 90hz high pass. Defeat all eq and start by balancing the sub vs main channels. Prob run the EAW at -6 to -9 output with the subs at 0 output to start then adjust as needed. EAW should have recommended dsp settings available for eq.

Thanks!  I ran the high pass at 30hz and the low pass at 100hz so I am close, and then I ran the tops at 100hz high pass.  Then I went and read the DBX Gadget "Start Here" thread and the "setting the gain structure" and I followed that all the way through.  That worked great!  Then I redid the Driverack according to the quick start booklet and ran through all the screens using the RTA mic and pink noise and let the Driverack do its thing as it went through it level settings and adjustments to a flat EQ setting, and then I set the AFS filters.  I just determined myself to trust the threads and the Driverack set up screens and IT WORKED!!!  Funny how that is.  Man does it sound great and much better than with the older DBX233XL now.  The subs are tight and thumping, top end is clear as a bell.  I went into all this upgrading with some skepticism, saying how much better can it sound with EAWs on top and the Driverack, and it is one of those times where the answer is, A LOT BETTER!!!  And now I have the three YORKVILLE TM352's freed up to use as monitors which I believe will sound killer as well (we were using cheap TOA monitors before - now I am setting up the Yorkville TM352's and two Carvin 742's.  And I just bought a Crest Prolite 3.0 to run two monitors as a test which I will hook up all the monitors tomorrow and see what I have.  If the Prolite 3.0 works out well, I will replace the other two monitor amps with two more.  I am replacing three older Crown Power Base amps that weight 35-40 pounds with the new 12 pound prolites.  For now, the mains are KILLER.   THANKS to everyone for your help here!!!  I printed the whole thread and used it along side with the manuals and DBX Start here thread and I am cooking! 

[Taylor Hall]

Gald to hear you got it working. Like you said, there's a learning curve to navigating and understanding the screens, but once you've done it a few times the results speak for themselves.

[Scott Olewiler]

Gald to hear you got it working. Like you said, there's a learning curve to navigating and understanding the screens, but once you've done it a few times the results speak for themselves.

IMHO the "Wizard" is the worse feature on the unit. It exist purely for marketing. I bet most users have to go back into the unit and tweak things in most of the screens to get their system sounding correct. 

If you can't navigate the screens and understand what you're doing and why you probably don't have the skills to do live sound work in the first place so why even have the set-up wizard? I run 5 different set-ups and having to go into the wizard initially just to tell it what my basic set up was 5 time and then bypass all the "auto" stuff is just a PITA.  If you let the setup wizard do its thing and it sounds bad, how would someone know where the problem is?  Going thru each screen in a methodical order allows you to save as you go, A/B changes, and hear the actual results of everything you're doing.  And the unit's really not that hard to navigate once you've used it a few times.

I glad Phil you figured it out, and now you should have much better understanding of how it works. 

[Tom Burgess]

Phil - Now that you're familiar with the workings of the DRPA+, go back and do your config for a mono sub instead of stereo subs.  Use the designated low output from the DRPA+ to feed both channels of your sub amp and let the tops deal with the stereo stuff.

Were you ever able to get your registration together on the dbx forums?

[Taylor Hall]

IMHO the "Wizard" is the worse feature on the unit. It exist purely for marketing. I bet most users have to go back into the unit and tweak things in most of the screens to get their system sounding correct. 

Exactly! I spent a fair amount of time hunched in front of the rack fiddling with buttons and knobs and consulting the manual every step of the way. After several false starts I bypassed the "wizard" and finally got it set up and had a better understanding of the device as well.

I'm glad to see they went with a more "user friendly" approach (at least for those of us who are tech-savvy) on the new PA2 to utilize a visual setup system on a smartphone or tablet. I'm interested to try it out first hand as we're going to be needing a second rack soon, and DSP to fill it out.

[Phil Novick]

Phil - Now that you're familiar with the workings of the DRPA+, go back and do your config for a mono sub instead of stereo subs.  Use the designated low output from the DRPA+ to feed both channels of your sub amp and let the tops deal with the stereo stuff.

Were you ever able to get your registration together on the dbx forums?

That sounds interesting, setting up for mono subs, would I connect them in parallel and bridge the amp?  or just say they are mono and leave them connected the same way? 

Also, no I never was able to register to the DBX forum.  I could register to the old forum but not the new one.  Keeps kicking me out. 

Additionally, I am an intuitive and love fiddling with things and not afraid of turning a dial, or making edits, etc.  Always have been and have learned how to use so many things in life because of this.  Yet it is a personality style seems most of us who are bantering out here have.  I feel bad for those who don't have this approach, they are not wrong or bad, just different, but what a struggle it would be sticking to rote processes and having them not work and being afraid to tweak and fiddle with things.  As Gadget stated on the DBX forum (I can read them), something like, "don't worry you cannot hurt it". 

[Steve Oldridge]

That sounds interesting, setting up for mono subs, would I connect them in parallel and bridge the amp?  or just say they are mono and leave them connected the same way? 

Phil, it's not POWERING subs in mono, it's using the DRPA's summed mono output (vs stereo) as a single input source for your subs !!  One LESS set of cables to run, which would both have been carrying the same signal [anyway] if set up correctly..
For a 3-way system that would become a 2 in:5 out config. On a 2-way that would be 2 in:3 out config.  Will give you more consistent sub control.

Your sub amp(s) get one input signal source - be that a split signal to one or more amps running in dual-channel mode, or to one or more sub amps running bridged, or as input to one or more (daisy-chained) powered subs.  You can daisy-chain or split the SINGLE SUB output from the DRPA to as many amps as you need to power your subs.

On mine, I run to first powered 18" sub, then daisy chain to second.

[Tom Burgess]

That sounds interesting, setting up for mono subs, would I connect them in parallel and bridge the amp?  or just say they are mono and leave them connected the same way? 

Also, no I never was able to register to the DBX forum.  I could register to the old forum but not the new one.  Keeps kicking me out. 

Additionally, I am an intuitive and love fiddling with things and not afraid of turning a dial, or making edits, etc.  Always have been and have learned how to use so many things in life because of this.  Yet it is a personality style seems most of us who are bantering out here have.  I feel bad for those who don't have this approach, they are not wrong or bad, just different, but what a struggle it would be sticking to rote processes and having them not work and being afraid to tweak and fiddle with things.  As Gadget stated on the DBX forum (I can read them), something like, "don't worry you cannot hurt it".

That's weird about the dbx forum.  I don't visit it nearly as often as I once did but I've learned quite a bit from Gadget and others there. 

Phil, it's not POWERING subs in mono, it's using the DRPA's summed mono output (vs stereo) as a single input source for your subs !!  One LESS set of cables to run, which would both have been carrying the same signal [anyway] if set up correctly..
For a 3-way system that would become a 2 in:5 out config. On a 2-way that would be 2 in:3 out config.  Will give you more consistent sub control.

Your sub amp(s) get one input signal source - be that a split signal to one or more amps running in dual-channel mode, or to one or more sub amps running bridged, or as input to one or more (daisy-chained) powered subs.  You can daisy-chain or split the SINGLE SUB output from the DRPA to as many amps as you need to power your subs.

On mine, I run to first powered 18" sub, then daisy chain to second.

This is pretty much what I was going to reply as well except that the DRPA+ can't do 3-way stereo plus a sub (2 X 5).  I don't think Steve was implying that it does but it might confusing to see that config mentioned in this conversation.

[ProSoundWeb Community]