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[Bill Schnake]

Well, I finally had a chance to tackle the repair job myself and it was very simple. No manual, no diagram or spec page, just a Phillips screw driver, tweezers, and a whole lotta guts! Lol

Started by removing the plastic side panels, kept all the screws separated and took pics along the way so in the event of needing to recall it was a click away.

After removing all the side, back-upper, front-under screws it popped right up. I placed a small wood block that was about 12" in length to hold the top of the console while I removed the silver machined screws that held the section (mix buss) that I wanted to repair and it too came right out. Lowered it down, used the tweezers to gently grab the belt and placed it back on the pulley.

From what I found, the bottom gear that the belt rolls on seemed to be positioned higher (not fully pushed down) like all the others, so it looks like this "might" be a potential issue in the future but for now all is working perfectly!

Screwed everything back in place, powered her up and she is all good.

Total time to repair: 25min
Tools required: Phillips screw driver (medium size)
Tweezers worked for me but you might use something else that could be in your arsenal of tools.


Thanks
-Sam


SHE'S ALIVE!!! :0)

Thanks for the update Sam.  I am sure that at some point I will have to do this to one of the two that I own.  I appreciate the pics, which make it easy to see what is being done.

Bill 

[Jonathan Johnson]

From what I found, the bottom gear that the belt rolls on seemed to be positioned higher (not fully pushed down) like all the others, so it looks like this "might" be a potential issue in the future but for now all is working perfectly!

Ah yes, a chicken and egg problem. We have two problems here: Did the out-of-place gear cause the belt to slip off, or did the slipping belt cause the gear to go out of place? If you could establish which event happened first, you would be halfway to establishing a fix. If the former, perhaps it's a simple manufacturing defect -- but why didn't it slip off sooner? If the latter, is there a design flaw?

[Sam Costa]

Ah yes, a chicken and egg problem. We have two problems here: Did the out-of-place gear cause the belt to slip off, or did the slipping belt cause the gear to go out of place? If you could establish which event happened first, you would be halfway to establishing a fix. If the former, perhaps it's a simple manufacturing defect -- but why didn't it slip off sooner? If the latter, is there a design flaw?

STEVE & BILL,

I did notice that when I placed the belt back on the bottom pulley, it would track up and down while moving the fader, so my guess is that if the pulley is not pushed or inserted correctly that it will eventually cause the pulley to lift thus causing the belt to slide down and off track.

I personally don't think it would be a BAD thing if they would slow the faders just a bit which could help alleviate these types of issue from happening, but one never truly knows. Again, I work with this console on a weekly bases and I put it through a lot of mixes and its been holding up quite nicely. I'm impressed.

During this quick down time I ended up building a custom case which is attached to my FOH rack which also has the snake wired to the console so all I do is roll it to the desired location, drag the stage end of the stage near the amp rack and I'm up and running.









I know it's not the greatest looking case but it was my first attemp in building one for the X32. I plan on spending some more time here shortly building one out of MDF and possibly getting corner guards and edges.


That's my .2 cents :0)

[Bob Leonard]

I would be quite sure the cog was pressed down to the same position on all of the faders as it left the factory. This would be an automated process and the chances of a single cog not being pressed down properly are slim to none. Note the belts aren't very tight by design, however, if the belt runs towards the bottom of the cog constantly it will tend to push the cog upwards until eventually there is enough room between the cog and bottom washer for the belt to slip under the cog, between the cog and washer where it will cease to function. If the motor is tilted back the belt will ride down the cog. If the motor is tilted forward the belt will ride up the cog and hit the flange. This is why I felt a dual flanged cog would be best. The belt will remain captured by the bottom flange on the cog.

In a mutli part design like the one being used here it will be all but impossible to guarantee perpendicular alignment. Many manufacturers use this type of design and not having a flange on the top and bottom of the cog does not make it a poor design. The goal will be to eliminate and chance of the cog moving on the motors shaft, so Loctite or a similar adhesive is called for.

[Chuck Simon]

Really, it's something that the buyer of a new board should not have to worry about.

[Bob Leonard]

I agree Chuck, but X32 owners tend to overlook these little issues.

[Jerome Malsack]

Seeing these as synchro motors the setting to zero should place the motors all at the lowest point on the fader and then the placement of the belt onto the gears should be good. 

On the case I feel you would be better served with a good plywood because when you drop the case or something hits the case the particle boards will shatter like a wind shield from a car. 

[frank kayser]

I know it's not the greatest looking case but it was my first attemp in building one for the X32. I plan on spending some more time here shortly building one out of MDF and possibly getting corner guards and edges.


That's my .2 cents :0)

I don't know.  The case looks pretty good, especially for a first try. 
I also agree that you need to stay far away from MDF for a case - it just is not as durable as plywood.  Screws don't hold as well.  Other problems. MDF is also heavy as hell.


Baltic Birch seems to be the plywood of choice - seems like it is generally higher quality, fewer voids.  Depending on who is handling the mixer, and how important weight is, you can choose from (in my opinion) 3/8" to 3/4" (actually it usually in metric thicknesses). 


Smaller mixers can get away with 1/4", but at the cost of case rigidity. Aluminum profiles are available in all popular thicknesses.  Some places also sell the ply already laminated with melamine cover.


And now back to our regular topic - thrown fader belts - already in progress...

[Sam Costa]

I don't know.  The case looks pretty good, especially for a first try. 
I also agree that you need to stay far away from MDF for a case - it just is not as durable as plywood.  Screws don't hold as well.  Other problems. MDF is also heavy as hell.


Baltic Birch seems to be the plywood of choice - seems like it is generally higher quality, fewer voids.  Depending on who is handling the mixer, and how important weight is, you can choose from (in my opinion) 3/8" to 3/4" (actually it usually in metric thicknesses). 


Smaller mixers can get away with 1/4", but at the cost of case rigidity. Aluminum profiles are available in all popular thicknesses.  Some places also sell the ply already laminated with melamine cover.


And now back to our regular topic - thrown fader belts - already in progress...

BOB:
I agreed on some of your points, however, we've also encountered similar problems with higher end console (PM5D more recently) where the motor failured on 2 faders... So, although I would like to believe that things of this nature won't happen again in the future, it falls back on the luck if the draw. For the price, it's a fantastic console and best bang for the
 buck. Like I said its put to work every weekend and I prefer it over my presonus and 02R for the small to medium sized venues.

As for the case, I will be using a plywood, at least 1/2" thick for strength and to obtain structural integrity.

Thanks.
-Sam

[Bob Leonard]

BOB:
I agreed on some of your points, however, we've also encountered similar problems with higher end console (PM5D more recently) where the motor failured on 2 faders... So, although I would like to believe that things of this nature won't happen again in the future, it falls back on the luck if the draw. For the price, it's a fantastic console and best bang for the
 buck. Like I said its put to work every weekend and I prefer it over my presonus and 02R for the small to medium sized venues.

As for the case, I will be using a plywood, at least 1/2" thick for strength and to obtain structural integrity.

Thanks.
-Sam

Broken belts, slipping belts, etc. Any of these problems can occur regardless of the manufacturer, design, or care taken during assembly, and the faders don't have to say Behringer on them either. If it's mechanical it will eventually break.
 
Try using 5/8" plywood with no voids. It will be heavier but it will also be easier to work with when creating joints and corners.
 

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