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[Craig Hauber]

The old 650W heater

Here in ND, 650W is not really considered a "heater" :-)

6500W might be a good start though.

(yes, yes I know, I'm wondering why people actually live here too.)

[John Roberts {JR}]

It depends on how much heat you are losing to the outside.

The math is the difference between inside temp and out side temp "times" the thermal resistance from inside to outside. So temperature delta and rate of loss both affect how much heat you need to replace. 

My new cheapest heater is 1300W and barely runs at more than 20% to keep up... but it isn't really cold yet.

JR

[Art Welter]

Using a 12 volt power supply through diodes made the wind generator function, from 11/7/13 through December 12/4/13  .
Noticed some extreme gusts that day, and that the generator was no longer spinning around dusk, even though the wind was blowing strongly.
Snow fell the next morning and a few times since, but had melted to the point where I felt OK climbing up to check out the generator yesterday.

Evidently the electronics failed, allowing the generator to spin fast enough for 7 out of 12 magnets on the rotor to break off and jam in the gap between the stator. Surprisingly there seems to be no damage to the stator, and little damage to any of the magnets.
I can probably fix the magnets back on the rotor with some glue, but will have to replace the electronics.

The replacement will probably cost more than the equivalent value of the electricity the generator could produce over several years.

Considering the generator only operated less than 5 weeks (<2 weeks boat use, <3 weeks heating use) makes me wonder weather it is worth the bother...

Art

[John Roberts {JR}]

Evidently the electronics failed, allowing the generator to spin fast enough for 7 out of 12 magnets on the rotor to break off and jam in the gap between the stator. Surprisingly there seems to be no damage to the stator, and little damage to any of the magnets.
I can probably fix the magnets back on the rotor with some glue, but will have to replace the electronics.

The replacement will probably cost more than the equivalent value of the electricity the generator could produce over several years.

Considering the generator only operated less than 5 weeks (<2 weeks boat use, <3 weeks heating use) makes me wonder weather it is worth the bother...

Art

I would have been tempted to roll my own controller from the start... but different strokes.

Is there any way to better secure the magnets to survive higher RPM and more power output? Glue seems questionable, can't use ferrous metal, some combination of dynamic loading and more robust attachment.

My DIY project has progressed on two fronts. My cheapo $20 heater while making more watts, had a fan so was noisy in a different way, and when I tried to tweak it to be be quiet it overheated, so back to the drawing board.

I found a proper 1kW baseboard heater that would run on 120V most are 240V, So now I have a silent heat unit. My back of the envelope calculation was that the extra heat output would only buy me some 6' more temp capability, but at the same time I upgraded my "red neck" storm windows. House was built with typical for the deep south single pane glass windows with permanent screens. My red-neck storms were sheets of drop cloth plastic stapled to the inner window frame. THe upgrade was to build some wood frames from 1"x2"  pine, that nests inside the window frame/sill. I then covered both sides of these frames with clear window film (variation on saran wrap). With the new improved "Beverly Hillbilly" storm windows I capture two insulating pockets of still air between the outer window glass and inner room air. Between the increased heat output and reduced heat loss from windows, my small 1kW aux heater has been able to hold inside temperature regulation with outside temps at night in the low 20's. It takes a couple hours at night to heat up the thermal mass of the room interior (walls etc)  that cools down to probably 50's during the daytime with all heat turned off.

JR

PS: I expect to break even within one heating season for the new improved storm window treatment, if I ignore my labor cost. I did several windows around the house including a 4'x8' picture window that was single pane and uncovered except for drapes.

PPS: The feds have started granting waivers for commercial windmills killing protected species birds. Once again their execution of the law seems to bend with their different agendas. I think they were offering 20 year permits or something like that.   

[Bob Leonard]

That sucks Art, lots of work for not much benefit. I had a similar problem with an 18HP Briggs where the magnets flew of the rotor/flywheel, jammed the flywheel and the engine wouldn't start. I rebuilt the engine that summer and it's been running like a champ ever since.

[Art Welter]

I would have been tempted to roll my own controller from the start... but different strokes.

Is there any way to better secure the magnets to survive higher RPM and more power output? Glue seems questionable, can't use ferrous metal, some combination of dynamic loading and more robust attachment.

My DIY project has progressed on two fronts. My cheapo $20 heater while making more watts, had a fan so was noisy in a different way, and when I tried to tweak it to be be quiet it overheated, so back to the drawing board.

I found a proper 1kW baseboard heater that would run on 120V most are 240V, So now I have a silent heat unit. My back of the envelope calculation was that the extra heat output would only buy me some 6' more temp capability, but at the same time I upgraded my "red neck" storm windows. House was built with typical for the deep south single pane glass windows with permanent screens. My red-neck storms were sheets of drop cloth plastic stapled to the inner window frame. THe upgrade was to build some wood frames from 1"x2"  pine, that nests inside the window frame/sill. I then covered both sides of these frames with clear window film (variation on saran wrap). With the new improved "Beverly Hillbilly" storm windows I capture two insulating pockets of still air between the outer window glass and inner room air.

If the electronics were working properly, the RPM would have been controlled.
If the magnets had not fell off and jammed, the carbon fiber blade attachment probably would have been the point of failure, and would have departed at the hub around mach 1, which could be quite dangerous.
It does surprise me that 7 out of 12 magnets fell off before it locked up.

I had used two single pane windows with an air space between on my house to begin with, there were enough old 6 and 9 pane frames that were laying around on the property to double up on as much glass as I wanted.
The problem with the "red neck" solutions is small air leaks add up to rather large differences in thermal efficiency.

After Bonnie moved in, about 4 years ago we upgraded to Pella windows, as the dual single pane sandwich were really hard to open and shut, and the screens around the hardware had gaps requiring rags..

The weather varies so much it is hard to say how much more efficient the new Pella windows are than the old, but if quietness is a measure, the change is quite apparent.

I left one  "redneck doublepane" in the (unheated) laundry room, it surprises me now when I go in there and can hear typical road noise, while the rest of the windows are so air-tight it takes a bunch of Harleys to hear.

[Art Welter]

That sucks Art, lots of work for not much benefit. I had a similar problem with an 18HP Briggs where the magnets flew of the rotor/flywheel, jammed the flywheel and the engine wouldn't start. I rebuilt the engine that summer and it's been running like a champ ever since.

At least my problem did not involve getting soaked or loss of tubes!

Found the guest house water heating element failed just before some holiday guests came, but since I did not find out about it until after filling the tank (a day before they arrived), have not fixed it yet, though will soon.
While purchasing the heating element I considered putting in some valves so the hot water tank would not have to be filled and then drained for short duration winter use, as the guest house uses water catchment with only a 160 gallon reserve, so loosing 25 gallons is of some concern.
I leave it unheated when not in use, and draining the hot water tank requires crawling under the house and hooking on a drainage hose..

After remembering your Thanksgiving fiasco with valves (and some of my own) decided I will live with the present arrangement  .

[ProSoundWeb Community]