this would be with active crossover only and nothing but the speaker interconnect wire between the amp and speaker.
Out of curiosity, I went to the manufacturer's spec sheets for the 4 ohm and 8 ohm models.4 ohm here: http://www.faitalpro.com/products/files/18XL1600/4/18XL1600_datasheet_4.pdf8 ohm here: http://www.faitalpro.com/products/files/18XL1600/8/18XL1600_datasheet_8.pdfBoth show the same winding depth, at 31mm. The 8ohm driver has a lower moving mass, by 12.5 grams, and a slightly lower efficiency rating at 1.61% vs. 1.73%. Also interesting is that there isn't a 2x difference between the DC resistance ratings: 3 vs. 5.4 ohms -- that is, the 8 ohm driver is a "heavier" load for its rating than the 4 ohm driver.-C
Stop thinking about windings and wire gauge and reread what JR wrote. We are discussing 2 speakers that have the same output for the same Watts input, so at 1600W the acoustic power out is the same, the electrical power in is the same, the difference between the two is the heat power out.The number of windings, and wire gauge and the magnetic flux all have an impact on the impedance of the speaker. We don't know any of those things here, and they don't really matter, because we do know that they have the same output for the same input, so the heat must be the same.Since in real life the impedances are unlikely to actually be 4Ω and 8Ω, and power numbers can vary wildly at high levels with small changes in perceived volume it is sort of academic. The more important drivers in the decision about what driver to use in a speaker would probably be how does the impedance work with the crossover and how will it load the amps in the configuration you want to use. In the case of subs that are on their own amp, the crossover issue does not apply.Mac
Mac;The OP wanted to know which voice coil would get hotter."""if both speakers are powered to their max aes power rating will the voice coil of the 4ohm woofer get hotter than the vc in the 8ohm woofer"""Voice coils wick heat just as a heat sink does to some extent. I'm saying that the coil with less windings regardless of imp. will not wick or handle current the same as one with more windings and get hotter but the OP is talking about more or less the same driver with different coils.I realize the heat generated should be the same but how much overall surface area of the coil should come into play as well. Like how much surface area a heat sink has determines how much heat it can handle. Are you saying that it doesn't?I guess the only way to know for sure would be to take a 4 ohm and a 8 ohm version of these speakers and apply the same "wattage" as the op wanted to know, not voltage, to them and see which one gets hotter. Douglas R. Allen
you got it Mr. Allen. a friend has a temperature reading gun. i have the 4ohm version. i can borrow an amp rated 2000 watts at 8ohms. my amps are rated 1700 watts bridged at 4ohms. a friend has a test benck watt meter that he uses to measure amp power with which will be used make sure both speaker are tested at the same power level. i have a frequency/tone generator. i have a test box for the 18" woofer. all i need is to find a 8ohm 18xl1600 woofer to borrow. at $599.00 each i'm not going to buy one. i though someone here might know for sure the answer to my question. thanks for your help , Jeffbtw as i posted earlier these woofer dont have anything but speaker wire between them and the amp. the crossover is an active Ashly xr4001.
And just how do you plan on getting the temp gun on the voice coil?And what source do you plan on using at the stimulus? Sine wave-noise-music? There may be some very slight differences in the impedance curve (due to different L/C values that would affect the amount of current flowing at THAT freq. Other freq would be different.Also remember that the overall temp will change over time-even with a steady source-due to the heat of the surrounding areas-magnet etc.
i have a small test box without a back. so holding the temp sensor at the vented pole piece was the idea. i have a tone generator that can be set to any freq between 20&20k. i figured "IF" i could find an 8ohm driver to borrow i would send a 100hz steady tone for 30 minutes with the level adjusted to show 1600 watts rms and hold the temp gun to the vented pole piece and see what the temp is. hook the other speaker up to the same amp adjust to 1600 watts and repeat above. the temp gauge is a Fluke 63. i would take a reading of the pole piece before and after. i dont know if doing it this way will work but ti would be neat to try. anyone have a faitalpro 18xl1600 8ohm you ant to lend me ?
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