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[Mark McFarlane]

One return channel on a Whirlwind snake is coming apart repeatedly. 

The design for this part (8 year old medusa I think) has a red cap riveted to the snake head and a separate black part where the solder connection is made, then the black part inserts into the red part and you turn a little screw to lock it in place. Great design for assembly, not so great for handling repeated connection stress.

The black part is continually 'pushing through' due to fatigue of the red part (some of the red plastic has worn away where it should latch).

I have a spare 'newer design' Whirlwind chassis XLR where the black part is now 'load bearing' and the red part is just decoration, but being the lazy guy that I am, anyone try supergluing these things together?  As a way to justifying my laziness, I don't have a rivet tool so if I replace the XLR using screws then I'll just have a new failure point, the screws coming loose.

[Lester Seidenberg]

I'd just breakdown and replace the part.  Why risk failure during a gig?   I just checked on Amazon and there were several riveting  choices for under $25.
 

One return channel on a Whirlwind snake is coming apart repeatedly. 

The design for this part (8 year old medusa I think) has a red cap riveted to the snake head and a separate black part where the solder connection is made, then the black part inserts into the red part and you turn a little screw to lock it in place. Great design for assembly, not so great for handling repeated connection stress.

The black part is continually 'pushing through' due to fatigue of the red part (some of the red plastic has worn away where it should latch).

I have a spare 'newer design' Whirlwind chassis XLR where the black part is now 'load bearing' and the red part is just decoration, but being the lazy guy that I am, anyone try supergluing these things together?  As a way to justifying my laziness, I don't have a rivet tool so if I replace the XLR using screws then I'll just have a new failure point, the screws coming loose.

[David Simpson]

I agree. You can get a rivet gun for about $15. Why risk the failure during a gig. Plus, the rivet gun will be useful for future repairs.

. I'd just breakdown and replace the part.  Why risk failure during a gig?   I just checked on Amazon and there were several riveting  choices for under $25.

[Mark McFarlane]

I agree. You can get a rivet gun for about $15. Why risk the failure during a gig. Plus, the rivet gun will be useful for future repairs.

Amazon's not really an option for me, at least for a few months until I return to the States.  Maybe I can find one locally, but where I am now (Saudi Arabia) there are no yellow pages, or web sites,...  It's a drive around and knock on doors kind of place for shopping.

[Lester Seidenberg]

Amazon's not really an option for me, at least for a few months until I return to the States.  Maybe I can find one locally, but where I am now (Saudi Arabia) there are no yellow pages, or web sites,...  It's a drive around and knock on doors kind of place for shopping.

That is a horse of a different color!   Superglue until you have a visitor from the States!  Or if you are near a US military base you could make nice to a tech sgt, and borrow one. 

[Mark McFarlane]

I've never owned, operated, or researched rivet guns.  I assume there are many diameters of rivets, different material strengths,.. and I'll need a small one to fit this application.

Is there a good 'multi purpose' brand/model?  A kit that comes with the tool and rivets of various sizes?  I appreciate any pointers for a 'good one' that will fit this XLR Chassis application.  I'll order one in May.

[Tim Perry]

I've never owned, operated, or researched rivet guns.  I assume there are many diameters of rivets, different material strengths,.. and I'll need a small one to fit this application.

Is there a good 'multi purpose' brand/model?  A kit that comes with the tool and rivets of various sizes?  I appreciate any pointers for a 'good one' that will fit this XLR Chassis application.  I'll order one in May.

A small nut and bolt will work fine.  A little locktite would be appropriate if available 

[TJ (Tom) Cornish]

One return channel on a Whirlwind snake is coming apart repeatedly. 

The design for this part (8 year old medusa I think) has a red cap riveted to the snake head and a separate black part where the solder connection is made, then the black part inserts into the red part and you turn a little screw to lock it in place. Great design for assembly, not so great for handling repeated connection stress.

The black part is continually 'pushing through' due to fatigue of the red part (some of the red plastic has worn away where it should latch).

I have a spare 'newer design' Whirlwind chassis XLR where the black part is now 'load bearing' and the red part is just decoration, but being the lazy guy that I am, anyone try supergluing these things together?  As a way to justifying my laziness, I don't have a rivet tool so if I replace the XLR using screws then I'll just have a new failure point, the screws coming loose.

I've had this same problem.  I glued the red part in the black part, and it held.  I can't remember if I used Epoxy or Super Glue, but one of them worked.

As to riveting or not - I agree that replacing with screws and nuts is a good solution.  I think a 4/40 flat head screw works.  Redco sells them here:
http://www.redco.com/Connector-Mounting-Hardware/

[Mark McFarlane]

I've had this same problem.  I glued the red part in the black part, and it held.  I can't remember if I used Epoxy or Super Glue, but one of them worked.

As to riveting or not - I agree that replacing with screws and nuts is a good solution.  I think a 4/40 flat head screw works.  Redco sells them here:
http://www.redco.com/Connector-Mounting-Hardware/

Thanks Tim and Tom,

I have a stash of suitable screws and nuts with the 'star washers' that I bought for a project.  I guess I'll try some glue for the next gig, then break out the soldering iron and screws when it fails.

I have some blue Locktite, used it on my wife's glasses, made a big mess.  But honey, weren't they blue tinted lenses?

[Bob L. Wilson]

I've had this same problem.  I glued the red part in the black part, and it held.  I can't remember if I used Epoxy or Super Glue, but one of them worked.

As to riveting or not - I agree that replacing with screws and nuts is a good solution.  I think a 4/40 flat head screw works.  Redco sells them here:
http://www.redco.com/Connector-Mounting-Hardware/

Those connectors are nylon some epoxy formulations will work OK some won't but all cyanoacrylates are a waste of time. Best permanent solution for nylon, if disassembly is not a priority, is a plastic weld reinforced with a good bead of quality high temp hot glue. Any autobody shop specializing in German cars will have a plastic welder for fixing bumper covers and such you should be able to find one to use for 5 minutes.

known good epoxy formulations
 http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm
 http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?family=Plastic%20Welder%E2%84%A2