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[Mike Gano]

We're building a DJ sound system for an art car (27' two-story bus) for Burning Man.

This is what I have so far:
. 2 CV JE-36 subs
. 1 Crown MA2400 to power them (will run bridged mono)
. 2 Yorkville E152 full range tops
. 1 Yorkville A4.4 amp to power them
. CDJs, dj mixer, Mackie 450 monitors

I'm wondering what signal processors I will need and perhaps even suggestions on brand/model/specs? We have a limited budget.
- cross-over?
- limiter/lever/compressor?

I'd like to have as few components in the signal chain as possible. Probably not even use an EQ besides on the DJ mixer.

And then cables. We'd like to make our own. Could anyone point me to a website with information on how to do this?

Thanks!
Mike

P.S. The project page:
http://www.facebook.com/TheArtCar

[Len Zenith Jr]

I'm wondering what signal processors I will need and perhaps even suggestions on brand/model/specs? We have a limited budget.
- cross-over?
- limiter/lever/compressor?

For a really tight budjet anything from here will crossover your tops and subs.

 On a budjet for a real DSP option the Behringer DCX2496 does all of the above and has a few parametric eq's available. You might be able to find a used DBX driverack pa/pa+ for the same price. Another budjet option would be the mini DSP.

As for interconnects here is a start : http://www.rane.com/note110.html

[Paul G. OBrien]

We're building a DJ sound system for an art car (27' two-story bus) for Burning Man.

This is what I have so far:
. 2 CV JE-36 subs
. 1 Crown MA2400 to power them (will run bridged mono)

I'd second the DCX suggestion but also suggest you not bridge that amp into these instead hang one box off each channel, I'm affraid if you uncork the full potential of that Macrotech on those things TheMan won't be the only thing burning. Original drivers in those cabs are only 400w and the driver is unloaded below 50hz..maybe even 60hz.. it's a pretty short horn.

[Mike Gano]

I'd second the DCX suggestion but also suggest you not bridge that amp into these instead hang one box off each channel, I'm affraid if you uncork the full potential of that Macrotech on those things TheMan won't be the only thing burning. Original drivers in those cabs are only 400w and the driver is unloaded below 50hz..maybe even 60hz.. it's a pretty short horn.

Interesting. Others had suggested the bridged setup.
Is there some sort of testing I can do to figure out how far I can safely push them?
I thought the specs listed the cabs as 500w.
And how do I check for sure at what freq they unload?

Looks like I'll be buying the DCX.

[Paul G. OBrien]

How you power any sub is program dependent, if its live sound then these boxes could handle 1000w program but for bass heavy recorded music you're gonna want to back that down to something closer to the RMS rating or risk cooking the drivers, and you won't know when you're approaching that until they just stop working. Only one way to find out the response of these things unfortunately.. measure it, in this case there is no usefull data available from the manufacturer. I have never seen measured response of this particular cab but I know the larger EL36 only supports its driver down to 50hz so I don't see this smaller cab doing any better.

[Len Zenith Jr]

The literature says the horn path length is 5 feet. Its a 1/4 wavelength horn, so 56hz would be the corner frequency. Below that It'll act like a direct radiator in a sealed enclosure. It'll have some output, but will run out of x-max quickly. Only software modeling of the driver would know for sure how much power it can handle below that frequency before over excusion happens.

[Mike Gano]

Hmmm. Ok, so will probably only send a frequency down to 60 hz to be safe.

I do also have one of these:
http://www.yorkville.com/products.asp?cat=2&type=29&id=369

Would it help to throw it into the mix to cover the sub bass?

[Craig Hauber]

Hmmm. Ok, so will probably only send a frequency down to 60 hz to be safe.

I do also have one of these:
http://www.yorkville.com/products.asp?cat=2&type=29&id=369

Would it help to throw it into the mix to cover the sub bass?

If you are custom building everything and you want an art-car aspect to the float, why not look into building some crazy-cool mouth/flare extensions for those subs :-)

Also remember that the drivers are in sealed chambers and it's really hot at burningman,  derate your power-handling accordingly.