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[Nathan Mazerall]

Hello, Ive been following this forum for a while now and finally decided to sign up!

Over the past few months ive been searching this forum for as much info as i possibly can on the LAB project to help assist me with my build. I am just about ready to pull the trigger and take this project on with my dad next week., since he is a ver skilled woodworker for over 50 years now.

I have some questions to help clarify a few things.

1. When we assemble this box i plan to put inset handles and casters at the back of the cabinet.( handels top and bottom caster just on the bottom) I also want to put 2 inset handle along the front bottom area and on the L&R sides of the box. with the inset handels and casters adding a few extra lumps to the inside of the cabnet will this jeopardise my sound quality in anyway. can anyone suggest what the best placement for the handels would be?

2. what would be the best way to instal the drivers? as far as getting a tight seal to the plywood. im a little lost on this. i dont think just screwin straight to th plywood is quite right?

3. I have no idea where do i start to look to find the aluminum plates?

4. Is there any recomended DSP settins? or just 35hz filter and call it a day?

thats all i can think of at the moment, but im sure ill have a million more to come.

Any Direction is gladly appreciated

[Jeff Bankston]

i use those round female 10-24 thread nuts with the 3 little points that stick into the wood and black allen head screws with small black flat washers to hold all the speakers in place. you gotta drill a hole a tad larger then the o.d. of the nut shank. it best to install those b 4 the front board is glued in place. most people refer to these as T nuts but they also make them with the round bottom and i use them. wood screws in plywood can work loose.

[Nathan Mazerall]

i use those round female 10-24 thread nuts with the 3 little points that stick into the wood and black allen head screws with small black flat washers to hold all the speakers in place. you gotta drill a hole a tad larger then the o.d. of the nut shank. it best to install those b 4 the front board is glued in place. most people refer to these as T nuts but they also make them with the round bottom and i use them. wood screws in plywood can work loose.

Oh! ok, this makes better sence to me now explained like that. Thank you Jeff!

Is there some kind of padding i need to have in between the cab and the speaker? or is it safe just to plunk her in the hole?

[Jeff Bankston]

Oh! ok, this makes better sence to me now explained like that. Thank you Jeff!

Is there some kind of padding i need to have in between the cab and the speaker? or is it safe just to plunk her in the hole?

if the back of the speaker flange is all flat i wipe a thin film of black permatex rtv siliconce i get from the auto parts on the cabnet and let it dry over night b 4 bolting the speaker in place. if the rear of the flange has a channel i get black poster paper from the school supply asile at target and make gaskets. there might be better things but i havent found them for the diy.

[Mac Kerr]

i use those round female 10-24 thread nuts with the 3 little points that stick into the wood and black allen head screws with small black flat washers to hold all the speakers in place. you gotta drill a hole a tad larger then the o.d. of the nut shank. it best to install those b 4 the front board is glued in place. most people refer to these as T nuts but they also make them with the round bottom and i use them. wood screws in plywood can work loose.

Those would be Fastenal Tee Nuts. They come in a variety of sizes, and are a pretty standard way of mounting speakers in cabinets. They should come with a specification for the size hole to drill for a given size of Tee Nut.

Mac

[Stu McDoniel]

Hello, Ive been following this forum for a while now and finally decided to sign up!

Over the past few months ive been searching this forum for as much info as i possibly can on the LAB project to help assist me with my build. I am just about ready to pull the trigger and take this project on with my dad next week., since he is a ver skilled woodworker for over 50 years now.

I have some questions to help clarify a few things.

1. When we assemble this box i plan to put inset handles and casters at the back of the cabinet.( handels top and bottom caster just on the bottom) I also want to put 2 inset handle along the front bottom area and on the L&R sides of the box. with the inset handels and casters adding a few extra lumps to the inside of the cabnet will this jeopardise my sound quality in anyway. can anyone suggest what the best placement for the handels would be?

2. what would be the best way to instal the drivers? as far as getting a tight seal to the plywood. im a little lost on this. i dont think just screwin straight to th plywood is quite right?

3. I have no idea where do i start to look to find the aluminum plates?

4. Is there any recomended DSP settins? or just 35hz filter and call it a day?

thats all i can think of at the moment, but im sure ill have a million more to come.

Any Direction is gladly appreciated

I looked around to find handle placement on these cabs.  I found a pic of two stacked
light brown lab subs and the link itself times out but if you hit this link below you can view them
on the search page.  Mabye it can give you handle placement ideas. 

www.google.com/#hl=en&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=lab+sub&pbx=1&oq=lab+sub&aq=f&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_sm=3&gs_upl=1073l5023l0l5398l16l12l4l0l0l0l120l1152l10.2l16l0&fp=1&biw=1349&bih=843&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&cad=b

[duane massey]

http://www.parts-express.com/

Great source for hardware. I use the "hurricane" nuts rather than t-nuts; typically 10-32 for speakers, 14/20 for the backs.

[Jeff Bankston]

www.usspeaker.com has hardware , handles , eminence speaker design software , and all knids of pa speaker drivers.

[J. Taylor Webb]

if the back of the speaker flange is all flat i wipe a thin film of black permatex rtv siliconce i get from the auto parts on the cabnet and let it dry over night b 4 bolting the speaker in place. if the rear of the flange has a channel i get black poster paper from the school supply asile at target and make gaskets. there might be better things but i havent found them for the diy.

I have used a black, sticky, non-hardening sealer, sort of putty-like. It comes in a small roll, like tape, with a non sticking backer. You can order it from Parts Express as well as other suppliers. It really holds; after the drivers is tightened down it has to be almost pried loose. I figure it makes a really good seal.
Question - Do I remember someone saying that silicone offgasing can break down some of the driver surround/suspension materials? I guess it doesn't matter as long as it dries first.
FYI - I usually put a dab of epoxy or a similar adhesive in the hole when I install the hurricane nuts ( +1 on those versus the standard T-nuts) , I have had them loosen when removing drivers, even in good Baltic Birch. Just be sure to keep it out of the threads. ( I usually run a 10-32 tap through them as well, just to be sure, prior to installing the driver).
Best wishes for success Nathan, and enjoy the process of building.
Taylor Webb

[Jeff Bankston]

i let the silicone dry overnight b 4 i install the speaker. i never had a problem with it hurtin the speaker. i'v ben doing it that way since the 80's. the only thing i dont like about the putty stuff is it makes it difficult to get the speaker out. i have seen the putty ans calk used a lot.

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